Wondered if anyone shoots a load, then decides to start crimping that load and notices any changes in performance.........like accuracy?
Specifically I am working up loads for my .375 H&H and I know that ultimately I want a crimped load for hunts. The load I'm currently using is not crimped and I've shot a .5" 3 shot group with it do you think that will change if I crimp it?
I have a set of Pacific Durachrome dies I am using and they seem to be fine, I have no paperwork with these dies, does anyone know if they have a crimp function and if yes how do I adjust them to use it?
Or do I just need to buy a crimping die for a .375 if so what brand do y'all recommend?
Thanks

I have a Lee Factory Crimp Die for every caliber I load

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=721278

I have done side-by-side / loaded-at-the-same-time tests and found that, for me, a light to medium crimp with the LFCD will increase velocity about 10 fps and reduce group size 1/8". The LFCD is fool proof (helps me out) because you just set it so the gaps close between the collets at the top (which you can readily see). Set it to close the gaps halfway and you put less of a crimp then closing them all the way.

For $8.00, it's a no brainer. You'll soon have one in each caliber.

i use the lee factory crimp dies also. my results have mirrored wood's. the one cartridge where crimping proved the best was 22 hornet.

i crimp by just barely kissing the brass and small indentations are made.

just because you are using the word crimp doesn't mean you have to squeeze the lead out of the bullet.

on the 375 i would definitely crimp until the 4 marks of crimping are identifiable on the round.

good luck.

I fully agree with both posts above. I use a light crimp on my .375, and it did improve accuracy noticeably. I would LOVE to have a Lee Factory crimp die in all my rifle calibres.

Snellstrom,

My experience exactly the same as woods, STINGER & Rikkie; like each of them I also highly recommend the Lee Factory Crimp Die!

I have one for almost every cartridge I reload and they are not only an outstanding value but perform just like they are supposed to. Like woods says this product is about as close to an Idiot-Proof tool as one can manufacture.

I use a 300 grain Flat Point bullet in my .375H&H which has a cannelure groove on it and I use a firm crimp.

The load & my rifle shoot from 1 1/4" to three shot clover leafs on any given day depending on me, not the load or the rifle. I'm more than pleased with these results and the added reliability given the crimp on the ammunition.

With a loaded cartridge up in the die, back out the seater plug several turns. Then screw in the whole die. If there is a crimping shoulder inside the die you will feel it contacting the case mouth. If so, continue to screw down until you get the crimp you want. In small increments, like 1/8 turn at a time.
Don't overdo it, the neck can buckle and prevent chambering in your rifle, and the bullet will be loose too.
When you've got the crimp you want, screw down the seater plug to make good contact with the bullet. Done! The bullet will now be seated to the correct depth and crimped. Of course there must be a crimping groove on the bullet.
That's how it's supposed to work but I too recommend the LEE factory crimp...

Edit: It is very important that all cases have the same length, otherwise the crimp will vary.

quote:

That's how it's supposed to work but I too recommend the LEE factory crimp...

?
how critical is trim lenght variations with LFCD.

quote:

how critical is trim lenght variations with LFCD.

I don't think it is quite that critcal because of how the crimp is done, never any risk of bucling.
But for conistent loads, use "consistent" cases, I would say...

Quoting from LFCD instructions

"Trim length is not critical."

Also

"Now you can crimp your bullets in place the same as factory ammunition. Roll crimps and taper crimps simply do not hold the bullet as firmly as a factory crimp. A collet gently but firmly squeezes the very end of the case into the crimping groove exactly the same as factory ammunition. The Lee Factory Crimp is so powerful that it will even crimp bullets in place that do not have a cannelure. Now you can seat your bullets to the best depth and the Lee Factory Crimper will form a cannelure in the bullet as it crimps the case."

I do not crimp mine enough to form any cannelures but only close the splits halfway.

I wish there was a way of testing bullet release inertia!

The Lee Factory Crimp for rifles caused the bullet to be deformed. It is a trade off between reliabilty and accuracy.

The individual must choose where he wants to be in that trade off.

A .223 in AR15 going into battle, I would want the crimp
A 6mmPPC in Nesika Bay going to a shooting match, I would not want the crimp.

Everything else is in between and up to you.

The crimp is adjustable on the Lee crimping die. I crimp just tight enough on my 22.250 to see that it is crimped. I bought some custom loaded 223 and the high production machine that they use crimps it so heavily that you can see the indent in the bullet.

In my 375 I set my crimp just so that I can see the four crimping marks.

quote:

The Lee Factory Crimp for rifles caused the bullet to be deformed. It is a trade off between reliabilty and accuracy.

That's why I use a light crimp

Thanks guys, took your advice I just ordered the Lee crimpimg die from Cabela's, $7.99.
I'll give it a whirl next weekend.
The load I came up with in my .375 H&H just shot a 3 shot .5" group for me the other day. If the results are the same after crimping I'll be really happy!
Thanks to everyone!

Woods:

Will that work on soft lead Hornady Colt bullets too??

I do crimp, but, use the roll crimp just barely enough to take the sharp edge off the case mouth. Cut a knuckle rather bad once while hunting.

Having problems locking these soft lead bullets in place. They'll all turn, and many will push/pull. A few have come out and locked up the cylinder. Guess I could look to see if they even make one for a .45 cal. Expect they'd crush the bullet same as other type's do. Then the case springs back to size and turns it loose.

Good advice you're giving, keep it up!

Snellstrom: You have a place to set that sucker off?? Prairie doggin gun?
PWSA range has 400yd targets IF you don't belong let me know.

George

Too hard a roll crimp will make the case buckle outwards under the crimp and the bullet will become loose.
LEEs factory crimp die for pistol and revolver cartridges is completely different from their rifle sibling.
In the rifle dies, the four fingers of the collet squeezes the brass sideways into the crimp groove.
In the pistol/revolver dies the crimp is done exactly like in the regular seater/crimp die, the case mouth is forced up against the crimp shoulder, be it a roll crimp (sharp shoulder) or taper. The die also has a sizing ring in the bottom to make sure the outside diameter of the case doesn't exceed chamber specs.
I personally do not quite understand the "good thing" with this die; if you crimp hard and the case buckles, the bullet will become loose. When pulling the case out of the die this bulge will be ironed out by the sizing ring (to still fit the chamber), but IMHO, the grip on the bullit is already lost.

quote:

Originally posted by georgeld:
Woods:

Will that work on soft lead Hornady Colt bullets too??

Don't know, have never done that.

Also don't understand what utk is talking about there. Maybe there is a problem with the pistol crimpers. Anyway they do make one

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=244052

but call it a modified taper crimp

The link Woods posted is to a taper crimp die for .45ACP. This is not for .45 Colt. In general, a taper crimp is for jacketed bullets. For lead bullits a roll crimp (into the bullet's cannelure) is right.
Most seating dies have the most common crimp-type built into them. For .45 Colt the most common bullet type is lead with a crimp cannelure, so that die has a rollcrimp built in. For 9mm the most common bullet is a jacketed one, and a taper crimp is built into the seater die. Many reloaders prefer to do the crimp in a separate operation, or use a different bullet, so that's why separate crimp dies are offered.
Lee have their "factory crimp" type of dies for this. They also have the traditional taper crimp dies for some calibers.

georgeld,

If you are using Hornaday dies they may not be sizing the brass small enough. I just recently had this problem and the Hornaday tech explained that it had something to do with .454 bullets for cowboy action shooting. It didn't make sense to me either. He promptly took my name and address and said a new sizing die was in the mail with smaller tolerances. After sizing, the inside neck diameter of my cases were .452-.453 measured with my calipers. You might want to check your cases also.

Calling the Hornaday 800 number is worth the time just for the entertainment. They definitly have a sense of humor and prompt service.