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An interesting idea, How will you evaluate pressure / velocity? When I first started reloading we used a plastic over powder button wads and built up a wad column using felt wads and card spacers. On top of that we used shot sleeves (a plactic wraper). Not a lot of fun now that wads are one piece and specificly made for all types of loads and we don't have to use wad pressure either. I have found Ballistic Products a wealth of information on all types of speciality shot shell supplies, loads and data, you might try them. Scout Master 54 | |||
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An interesting idea, How will you evaluate pressure / velocity? When I first started reloading we used a plastic over powder button wads and built up a wad column using felt wads and card spacers. On top of that we used shot sleeves (a plactic wrapper). Not a lot of fun now that wads are one piece and specificly made for all types of loads and we don't have to use wad pressure either. I have found Ballistic Products a wealth of information on all types of speciality shot shell supplies, loads and data you might try them. Keep us posted. Scout Master 54 | |||
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Been there, done that. Works great. I use it with my 10 bore Scott. But I use #419 watercolor paper obtainable at an art supply shop. It is thick and not especially smooth. The thick part is inmportant as the shot is pressed into it w/o deforming and it does not rub through to the barrel as would be the case with lesser papers. This significantly tightens the load too - which is nice in my open choked ten. Brent PS. paper patched rifle bullets are myforum=23&threadid=80692&messages=535&CATEGORY=9 real passion. If you are interested --- | |||
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More info for all: The gun/load for my questions is an 8ga SxS & a single shot. 8ga components are 'scarce' to say the least. I am currently using brass shotshells & Rem Industrial hulls (with the extra metal band swaged to specs). My current methods of loading are to prime them with a mallet, dowel, and a flat metal base. Drop 44gr of Blue Dot in the case and seat an 8ga Gulandi wad over the powder. The wads only have a 1/2" shotcup and in this shotcup I put a 1/2" 10ga fiber wad as a spacer. Then I would just dump 2-2.25oz of shot on top of that and cover with an overshot card and roll crimp with a drill press (plastic hulls) or glue around the seams (brass shells). This would leave lead streaking (from the lead pellets compressing on the inside barrel walls under pressure) in my barrel which I didn't want. What my plan was is to cut paper wrappers to act as a barrier between the pellets and the barrel walls. I insert this wrapper into the shotcup and then insert the 10ga (fits perfectly) 1/2" fiber wad inside that. I was suprised at how well it worked and how solid it was. We'll see. Scout Master 54, I have searched Ballistic Products, Precision Reloading, various european suppliers and have yet to see a plastic wad with full length shot column petals. If they make them, I want some. The demand is somewhat low I actually know someone with an 8ga pressure test barrel (also 4ga, 10ga, 12ga, & others) so I'll ask him to test a few for me. Brent, Thanks for the tip on the paper type, I'll pick some up tonight. My barrels are Improved (front trigger) & Modified (rear trigger). I'm looking forward to tightening my patterns but having said that, at 50yds I had 1/2 of the #8 shot (325pellets) hit inside of a 30" circle at 50yds as is. I was shooting trap with it about a month ago with 2.25oz of #8 and it works well, this will be my grouse load. I've also got #5 shot for game farm phesants and #2 shot for wild phesants. This is going to be a fun season. | ||
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quote:#2 for pheasant? Way overkill. 5's will do just find and dandy. But a 8 bore is a hell of a gun for a pheasant and crazy big for a grouse. Good luck though. I have a friend hot after a Manton 8 bore double. Brent PS. I use the paper ahead of the fiber cushion wad (Circle-fly lubed) PPS. If you need more brass, google up Rocky Mountain Cartridge. They will last a lifetime. | |||
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