I was working up some new loads for my .350 Rem Mag with TAC and Swift A Frames, and had a stuck case that required a rubber mallet on the bolt. It surprised me as I was not getting any pressure signs. Unfortunately the case head broke off and left the case in the chamber. Any suggestions on how to get it out?

Phil

FIrst try a brass bore brush for a .45 or 50 caliber and see if that will get it out. Actually, first try a 35 cal bore brush from the muzzle. Other methods are chamber casts with cerrosafe, and taps but be very careful with one of those. Usually, they aren't stuck too tightly and the bore brush will get them out.

If it is jammed into the chamber and will not come out with the bore brush,remove the bolt and insert a tap that will start to "thread" into the open end of the stuck case. Make sure you do not cut through the case walls.
Take a cleaning rod from the muzzle and tap the stuck case out by hitting the end of the tap.
I have used this technique for over 40 years and it has always worked.

You can also jam another case inside the one that is broken. You can start off with a full case. If the neck interferes trim the neck offand jam it inside and then try to extract. I have done this many, many times with Lee Enfields.

Get a piece of heavy wire. Flatten one end like a flat tipped screwdriver. Bend that end into a hook. Then use it to engage the rim of the stuck case and pull towards the receiver. You may also bend the opposite end like a hook and tap backwards with a light ball peen hammer. WD40 or other light penetrating oil will also help loosen the case during the above process.

Geoff

Yep, do what snow said. No doubt you caused it in the first place. As I said, in this case (not a pun), the front part of the brass is usually not stuck very tightly; usually quite loose.

I agree....the brass was probably overworked, although it had only been reloaded twice. So far, no luck removing the case. It is being stubborn. I've soaked it with WD40 and tried oversize brushes from both ends...can't budge it. It's soaking for a while for another try. I may have to get more aggressive. Thanks for the comments.

Phil

You might try heating the chamber area to about 300 ° in an oven then squirting canned air on the brass. The difference in temps might just pop the brass loose enough for the case to release its grip.

Canned air freezes when you hose the heck out of it instead of just puffing it.

You might have to do this several times, heating and cooling trying to remove, then cycling again. The mere fact of cycling can sometimes get it to loosen.

I've used ezy-outs along with Cerro safe to get out really badly stuck cases. The ezy out grips the case so the Cerro safe holds rather than slipping.

This was with barrels removed from the receivers. Don't go over 300°, which is cooler than some barrels I've gotten hot by shooting too many rounds too fast.

Most of the time if I can't get it out by using many of the suggested methods I just pull the barrel, chuck it in the lathe and turn down(thin out the brass) the sticky section...usually the last 1/2" or so above the ragged edges.

At this point, tho, if you don't have the facilities or expertise to remove the barrel, I would take it to a 'smith...there are many simple ways to fix the problem you can do with a lathe that the average Joe isn't privy to.


This is the best lesson you could have incurred concerning believing all the "stuff" that is scattered all over the net about HOW to "READ" pressure signs from looking at a cases or "FEELING" what pressure was generated from bolt lift.

I've been at this game a LONG time and by this time I know and understand that all that BS about flattened primers, sticky cases and hard bolt lift is an excellent indication you have gone way, WAY over the pressure limits...but every newbie reads and believes and sometimes learns the hard way by what you're going through...

NOT to rub it in...just to underscore it for you AND EVERYONE ELSE that is following this thread.

Luck

Thanks for the suggestions. Actually, I've been reloading rifle, handgun and shotgun ammo for over 40 years, and this is the first time I've had a case separation. I stay within "book" limits....accuracy is more important than velocity. This batch of primed cases has been sitting on the shelf for a few years and can't be more than the second or maybe 3rd reload....cases are not that expensive...I'm quick to replace with new. The load was 59 gr TAC and a 225 gr Swift A Frame.I don't have a Swift manual, but The Barnes manual has 64 gr. of TAC with their 225 Gr TSX as max. I have to stop at a local gun shop tomorrow for a few things and will let them take a look. They have tools that I don't have.

Phil

A tight patch pushed from the muzzle will usually knock them right out. Bore brush is also a good try.

I've been at it as long or maybe longer and I've had a few unexplained pressure excursions that almost welded the case into the chamber.

Not many and I could rule out almost all the "regular/normal" causes, but something happened. Reload for long enough and the wrong side of the curve will always jump up and bite you.

The only damage was that Rem C-clip extractor got killed, no set back on the lugs or receiver, and the rifle rebarreled from a 25-06 to a 338-06 is still going strong.

Same thing on an XP-100 and 788. I weigh and measure EVERTHING in sight when it comes to making fodder, just like my benchrest days.

I did blow up a couple of Mausers way back, ON PURPOSE, just to see...so all these happenings are always out front.

I ran your load, 350 Rem Mag, 59 TAC, 225 gr Swift A frame, 2.80" COAL, 100.4% density, through my QL and came up with 67148 PSI/2680 fs, which is about 4782 psi over the 62366 psi 350 Rem MAP. That might explain the problem to a certain extent.

My Barnes manual doesn't list TAC as a powder so I ran it through QL...wherever that 64 gr load came from you are VERY lucky you didn't get there.

QL came up with 109864 psi/117.4% case capacity for a 64 gr load and the TSX.


...ONE HUNDRED AND NINE THOUSAND EIGHT HUNDRED AND SIXTY FOUR PSI...

I doubt you could have stuffed that amount of powder into that case and got a bullet in also.

QL data for the Barnes 225 TSX was even worse for the 59 gr load...79655 psi and 108.3% load density at 2.8" COAL.

SOMETHING is totally wrong somewhere here.

PLEASE, review that the information I used in QL matches what you said and used and if it is correct then re-evaluate your reloading practices...you CAN'T MIX AND MATCH data from one manual to another, one bullet to another ESPECIALLY for the solid bullets...if you have a further interest

Was this load shot in a Rem 600 18.5" carbine????

I don't depend on ANY software program totally so QL is just for roughing out beginning load data as is any reloading manual, but it is usually very close on pressure and velos when I test loads and chrono them.

Luck

My rifle is a Montana Rifleman short action and will accept COAL of 3". This particular load has a COAL of 2.915". Ramshot Powder data specs 59 gr of TAC as max.with 225 gr bullet....Barnes published data for their 225 gr TSX specs 62 gr of TAC as max. This load shows no pressure signs in my rifle, has a COAL of 2.99" and is not compressed.
Note: My previous post erroneously indicated a max load from Barnes for the 225 gr TSX at 64 gr of TAC.....the correct max is 62 gr.
Phil

FWIW...QL data for a 350 Rem Mag, 225 Barnes TSX - bullet length 1.308", 2.99" COAL, case volume 72 gr H2O, 62 gr TAC IS 76710 PSI/2889 fs - 104.6 % density.

With a case volume increase to 74 gr H2O, same other parameters, 70858 psi/2850 fs, 101.2% density.

For the Swift A-frame, 2.195" COAL, 72 gr H2O case capacity, 59 gr TAC, 60490 psi/2721 fs, 95% density...well below MAP specs.

That load should hardly bother a case unless the headspace is a bit excessive.

Did you chrono any of this loads before the head separation???

Do you headspace on the case shoulder???

I have several belted mags 7mm to 458 cal and I've tested all of them both by headspacing on the shoulder or by screwing the die down to touch the shell holder tightly to take out any slop in the press linkage.

Headspacing on the shoulder gives me a minimum of 10 firings per case in ALL my belted mag rifles...10 firings is my MAX for target, load development, plinking/varmint etc., 5 for hunting eating game and 2 for things that bite back.

I ran my 300 WM as many as I could with full 220 gr Horn RN's with a load maximized for that rifle, headspaced on the case shoulder, seated to touch the lands, I won't publish the load specs but it was over most manuals specs, and I got 14 reloads before I quit as the bright ring just appeared. I trimmed the cases about 0.005" for the first 3-4, then about half that for the rest...WW cases.

I only got 3 reloads with the same load when the sizer was adjusted per normal "screw down to touch the shell holder" directions from most die makers.

My dies are adjusted to fit the chambers and only move the brass about 0.0015-0.002" both shoulder setback and base diameter reduction.

I would be interested in any additional information regarding your loading procedures etc., with this rifle. You got my curiosity up and running.

Thanks Luck

I was able to remove the case from the chamber using a screw remover. The case has an indentation at the base of the shoulder about the size/depth of a bb. I have a picture, but don't know how to post it. Can't figure what would have caused the case to collapse inward during firing....it's the opposite of the direction of the outward force. I will be shooting this afternoon with my chronograph and let you know the results. If you like, I will email the picture to you.

Phil

The only ways that I've had collapsed shoulders is from debris in the chamber or low pressure loads that didn't seal the neck...or using too much of the old sizing lube.

Unburned powder/pressure moved down between the chamber walls and cartridge causing a collapse. Mostly using slower burning powders due to the burn rate not getting high enough as the bullet starts moving down the barrel. Basically the pressure/time curve is out of kilter. All this happens in milliseconds. QT is good because I can see what the P/T curve is and select powders that don't produce those unwanted variations.

The case usually was blackened by soot in and around the collapse and various locations around the case mouth and partially down the neck sides.

You can PM me the pictures or use Photobucket(free) to post pics. It's no harder to use PB than emails and it is a bit safer to use. I've had bad luck in the past giving out my email address so I don't anymore.

Basically you download your photos from your camera to "My Pictures", or make your own folder, in Windows, goto PB and set up a photo album, start PB and upload your photos to your album, copy the HTTP URL from photo bucket then copy that to your reply in AR. I'm guessing you have a family member that can show you how faster than me trying to explain it.

Looking forward to seeing the pic's and your chrono results.

Barnes tsx are banded so there is less bullet surface area touching rifling as it goes out the barrel. So, less pressure and more powder in the case before pressure come up. In my opinioin loading cup and core bullets with Barnes max triple shock data, is just asking for trouble. You would be better calling Swift for data on Tac and thier 225gr bullet in the 350mag.
Obviouly, Your 62 gr load is way too hot. You are lucky that a stuck case is all that happened. I load for 2 350 mags and I know that they do impress me, but they are not a 338 mag either.

Dis, I'm not using the same load for Barnes and Swift A Frame. The 225 gr Barnes TSX- 62 gr TAC for 2,788 fps...225 gr Swift A Frame 59 gr TAC for 2,670 fps. You misread my previous posts.

Nonagonagin, I'll try photo bucket.

Phil

How many times was the brass that seperated reloaded? Some belted mag chambers are very sloppy and stretch cases baddly. Do any of your cases show the ring just above the belt? Is your sizing die set up for a snug fit in your chamber when closing the bolt? That is so the brass is not over-worked or stretched. I have 350 brass that has been reloaded 5-6 times and still look good. Maybe you just found a bad piece of brass.

Well, DIs...I'm not too sure about that 338 Mag thing. Maybe a 358 Norma Mag would be a better comparison...same bullet size and case volumes.

You might want to check factory load specs and reloading manual data...the 350 RM can be loaded to within 50 fs of some factory data and equal to in other data.

Barrel length, Type of weapon, real/truthful data, bullet construction, etc...all this comes into play when comparisons are made, but many time this information in not included or conveniently left out, or data is cherry picked to "prove" some point.

I have a 338-06 that I load 225 gr Horn SP's to ~2725- 2775 fs, equal to many 338 Mag loads of the same bullet weight. This is not the only 338-06 to do the same.

It was throated for the long discontinued 270 gr Speer and has a free bore of 0.0600" which also means I have to increase the powder by 2-3 gr just to equal "normal" velos and I can go beyond normal powder amounts to get the velos ABOVE 338 Mag velos, but because the specific load I use puts 5 into one nice round hole at 100 M and starts opening groups as the velo increases, I don't. It also requires ~15 gr LESS of a slightly faster burning powder to get there.

The 200 and 225 Horns are the only bullets that will do <0.600 MOA in this rifle and I've tried almost every .338 bullet available up to 250 gr. I have larger cal rifles so no need to go any higher in bullet weight in the 338-06...if I want heavier bullets I just step up a caliber or case size.

By the same token I've optimized 338 Mag loads for a couple of friends, many years ago, for their favorite rifles and bullets that are hard on the heels of factory 338 RUM and 338 Lapua factory stuff, velo and performance depend on a ton of factors other than case/bullet size anyway.

The Horn 225 SP load for my 338 Lapua is well above most manuals for equal barrel lengths, but the load, while being very speedy, is not as efficient in most aspects than the 285-300 gr bullets I use for long range varmint/rock/bottle/can popping.

Besides if I'm going to pay the price for the extra powder I want all the bang I can get for my buck in bullet weight, BC, drop, etc.

I'm getting to loud up in here I think, so I will back out...my enthusiasm for this sport is such that a little coffee goes a long way.

There are tools outside of reloading, if the bolt can be removed use a slide hammer, if you do not have a slide hammer make one.

If the case head comes off use an internal puller, my internal pullers are slide hammer operated.

F. Guffey