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No end to blue patches!!
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one of us
posted
I need thoughts and help on copper fouling. I have one simple theory, probably not correct.

I have two rifles with copper fouling, a stock .338 Win Remington 700 w/24", and a .350 Remington Mag. with a 22" Shilen barrel. One shoots 225 Hornady's the other 225 Nosler/Sierras. The .350 was built for me, so I know it has less than 200 rounds, the .338 was used, but throat looks good. I can look down into the barrel(muzzle) and easilly see copper streaks on the lands of both rifles. The .350 was broken in by me with a Shilen type method of cleaning after every shot=10, then 3shot groups.

The theory is that all rifles look like this, but these calibers easilly permit me to see into the barrel due to the diameter?????????

I have used JB's extensively in the .338 to no avail. I have also used Barnes CR-10 and Iosso in both rifles. These didn't work. The CR-10 I did not leave in the barrel longer than 10-15 minutes.

I have since tried Butch's Bore shine. Yes, I am getting blue fouled patches. I was befoore also, this is just easier to use. I am leaving this sit in the barrel for about an hour. It is taking me days to clean these two guns and there is not noticeable removal of fouling looking down the bore.

I've probaly put 400-800 strokes of JB in the .338 on tight fitting patches. Opinions on this cleaner go either way, but I may have put an Ultra-polish on the bore that may be screwing things up, but it showed copper before I started.

Both guns shoot honest 1/2 MOA..........It just really bothers me to see the copper in there. I don't hardly shoot them to practice because I feel "limited" to the number of rounds before it really gets fouled to the point I can't fix it.

Anyone have any tips or suggestions?

 
Posts: 346 | Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico | Registered: 05 January 2002Reply With Quote
<ultramag>
posted
I sure wouldn't be doing much of anything to a bore that was giving me 1/2 MOA. I would keep the JB even farther away.
 
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Picture of Brad
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In my opinion, the modern obsession for clean barrels is highly overrated. If they shoot, who cares? God knows I'm as anal as the next guy, but where does all this end?! Some barrels shoot very well heavily fouled.

Brad

 
Posts: 3526 | Registered: 27 June 2000Reply With Quote
<gj>
posted
ANSWERE!
Your Barrel is made out of copper.LOL gj.

Couldnt resist!

Never heard of this bad a problem with two quality barrels.
Try sweet 7.62 cleaner and use plastic brushes and not copper brushes.
good luck gj.

------------------
www.moaammo.com

[This message has been edited by gj (edited 03-12-2002).]

 
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Brad, yes, yes, yes (pump arm in air in agreement) Too many arm chair great white hunters read what the droolers have to say each month and quote it as gospel but don't have the opportunity to find out with "hands on" experience. I THINK it was Carmichel that said "more barrels are ruined by being "scrubbed out" than by being "shot out".
 
Posts: 2037 | Location: frametown west virginia usa | Registered: 14 October 2001Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of ricciardelli
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First of all, I bet you are "over-cleaning", and secondly, I bet you use brass brushes...

------------------
http://stevespages.com/page8.htm

 
Posts: 3282 | Location: Saint Marie, Montana | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by ricciardelli:
First of all, I bet you are "over-cleaning", and secondly, I bet you use brass brushes...


Agreed.

Been there, done that!

~Holmes

 
Posts: 1171 | Location: Wyoming, USA | Registered: 03 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Hi Jesse. I have 2 barrels for the same swith barrel rifle. One is a Lilja 3 groove, the other is a Kreiger 4 groove. The Lilga is a copper mine. The Kreiger basically doesen't foul at all. I check for blue with Sweets every once in a while, but never find any to speak of at all. Both these barrels are capable of shooting amazing groups, the Lilja is just a lot more work. With it I have worked out a routine that includes Sweets in between groups (no more than 15 rds including sighters), and then Iosso in between yardages. It is still a shooter. Sounds like yours are shooting pretty good too. (you could have gotten a barrel that shoots 2" groups but cleans up easy) Ya pays your money and you takes your chances. (by the way, I have a shooting buddy that has a 3 groove Lilja, and he has no problems with excessive copper fouling) Still, I sure do enjoy shooting that Kreiger!
 
Posts: 373 | Location: USA | Registered: 05 December 2000Reply With Quote
<hotdog>
posted
American Rifleman had an article some time ago about power cleaning your barrel. Take an old cleaning rod take off the handle. put a good brush in and use a bore guide. Put the end in your electric drill. work The brush back and forth in your barrel at a medium speed and the barrel is clean. Not to use this every time but with a build up, once in a while wont hurt. I tried it and it works for me. Luck hotdog
 
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<Reloader66>
posted
Use Shooters choice to clean your bore because it can be left in the bore and not harm it. Avoid the use of bronze bore brushes I feel they will cause crown damage. Use Nylon bore brush if you must. As long as your rifle is giving you the groups you want, what is the problem. No barrel made, no matter how well it was prepared will come completly clean, after the first round is fired. Even the top barrel makers produce barrels that copper foul worse than others. In some cases a premium barrels needs a few hundred rounds through it to come around. One of the worst things any shooter can do is fire his rifle before he cleans the bore and that should be done before you ever fire that very first round. You can scrub that bore until your arm falls off and it will still retain the remnants of that very first round you fired. All you need do is keep your rifle bore clean enough to shoot good groups. If you practice a good barrel break in procedure your bore will come clean easier and will give you long service and superior accuracy. Stay away from those caustic damaging bore cleaners. If your bore will not come clean with Shooters Choice or Tetra Copper Solve it never will no matter what other crap you try. I never put anything in my rifle bore that may harm the bore if left to long. The only copper remover I have found that will work and not harm the bore is TETRA COPPER SOLVE. My rifle bores only get Shooters Choice or Tetra Copper Solve put through them period end of sentence.
 
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Good info. I tried to be as complete as possible to reduce the responses. I was using bronze/brass brushes a few years ago, all nylon now. The .350 has never seen a brass brush. My patch pushing tips are a brass set from Midway, but I don't think this is the problem.

I shoot plently of Savages, all of them good shooters. I know that their bores are said to be really rough and would expect this type of copper in those barrels, I just didn't think these barrels would show that kind of copper.

The Lilja responses are odd. I have my barrel in already for a 6.5 WSM. If this barrel fouls, I'll be pretty pissed. I thought Dan hand lapped these for a while. I thought that was part of what I paid for? Oh well, I just need some reassurance once in a while. I am one of those guys that read everything, and if it makes sense and comes from one of the writer I think is reputable, I go with it. Actual hands-on, and rifle rounds down range are not nearly as much as some. I'm just a 30 year old kid.

 
Posts: 346 | Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico | Registered: 05 January 2002Reply With Quote
<bigcountry>
posted
Using CR-10 or Sweets with brass brushes will tell you lies. You would never get out the blue using a brush that you put sweets on.
 
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<bearlake>
posted
Butch's bore shine and a nylon/kevlar or any non brass brush work good on all my stuff. I think Butch's products are a bit better then most others i have tried With Sweets7.62 a close second. As long as you can stand the smell!
 
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<Mike M>
posted
Too much emphasis is put on getting ALL the copper fouling out of a barrel. Such fouling shouldn't be a concern until it begins to effect accuracy. In fact my experience has been that super clean barrels don't shoot well until they have had a few rounds through them to foul the bore.

I also don't care for nylon brushes. I believe nylon is actually more abrasive than bronze. Just witness all the effort that has gone into making fishing rod guides that nylon monofilament won't cut into.

 
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Jesse Jaymes,
If your cleaning rod has a brass adaptor or you are using anything contains copper to clean the bore the patch will never be "not blue". Get a patch soaked with ammonia solvent and wrap it around a brass jag, wait for 30 seconds and you will see, I learned my lesson this way.

Secondly, looking down the bore don't really tell the truth(shiny streaks on the land always look like copper), I suggest you roll a patch into a roll and put it in the muzzle, push the patch roll slighly into the bore and let the light hit the white patch, the light will reflect and let you see bore condition of the muzzle area more clearly.

Hope you will find that your rifles have been clean all this time.

 
Posts: 638 | Location: O Canada! | Registered: 21 December 2001Reply With Quote
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So that's what happened to the barrel of the Savage 7 mag that my nephew picked up at the pawnshop. Hotdog, do you believe that spinning a cleaning rod in a barrel is a good idea?? This particular Savage has deep scratches in the barrel ACCROSS the rifleing lands! It looks like someone took a cleaning rod with something very hard on it, spun it full length of the barrel. I thought the damage was only in the last inch or so, but a bore scope at the gunsmiths showed it was full length of the BBL.

This rifle shoots patterns, not groups. I mean 4 to 6 inches at 100 yds with a 3x9 scope,(factory rem 140 corelockt). I'm going to try to lap it with iosso or JB. If that don't do the trick, then I may try to fire lap it. Last resort would be a rebarrel.

You say this procedure was in the Rifleman?? Seems like bad advice to me.

------------------
if you run, you just die tired

 
Posts: 596 | Location: Oshkosh, Wi USA | Registered: 28 July 2001Reply With Quote
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For you guys that think you are having trouble with false readings (blue patches), you can always push your ammonia solvent soaked patch through the barrel with a wooden dowel. That will tell you if the blue you are getting is a false reading or not. That being said, with the bad foulers, there is really no point in trying to get every last little bit out of there. On these I try to develop a routine that keeps the fouling from building up to the point where it won't shoot. More than that to me is pointless. (and too much work)
 
Posts: 373 | Location: USA | Registered: 05 December 2000Reply With Quote
<HOG>
posted
If the guns are shooting well I would not try to get all the copper out. Don't try to fix something that is not broke. After shooting the gun use some hoppes 9 to remove the powder fouling and some butches bore shine to remove all the copper you can.
 
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Picture of RSY
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Try Hoppe's 9 BenchRest solvent. For me, leaving it in a max of about 8 hours (and sometimes as little as 1 hour if I'm in a hurry), it seems to remove just enough to restore accuracy, but does not risk chemically over-stripping the rifling. Whatever's left after a few patches can stay in my rifles...they're accurate nonetheless.

RSY

[This message has been edited by RSY (edited 03-13-2002).]

 
Posts: 785 | Location: Central Texas | Registered: 01 October 2001Reply With Quote
<Don Krakenberger>
posted
personally I found a "bore mop" with sweats is real hard to beat. If you have heavy fouling you may want to try one caliber bigger mop for more friction (ie a .338 bore mope in a 30 cal gun). I made a cradle that hold my gun pointed down at the floor & I use a bore guide with the mop and all my drippings get caught in a cup on the floor.
If using milder non corrosive chemicals you could point the muzzle to the floor, insert the bore guide, slide the bore mop about 1" down the rifling from the action and unscrew the rod leaving the mop in there. Then fill about 1/2" of your non chorosive chemical through the boreguide. It will ever so slowly filter past the bore mop and flow down your rifling. JUst some ideas that have worked for me.
 
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Two things I've done--and by the way, I'm am purged of the "everytraceofcoppermustberemoved" school of thought...but when I was...

I would use a chamber plug from Midway, stand the rifle up with the barrel clamped in my workmate, and fill it with Shooter Choice. Let it soak overnight.

Drain and clean with a bunch of patches. Follow with JB's on a patch wrapped around a one caliber undersized brush.

If that doesn't work, follow with the Outers Foul-Out rig.

The only reason I reccomend this procedure is that it is such a pain in the ass that it will cure of the urge to remove every last trace of copper from your bore.

Rick Jameson who writes the precision reloading column for Shooting Times did an interesting test a while back with a bore scope. Net net, he was amazed at how much work it took to remove all the copper. Also, I learned that just because the bore is copper free at the muzzle, you probably still have copper right ahead of the chamber where fouling is worst.

CLEAN TO SHOOT, NOT SHOOT TO CLEAN!

OR

BULLETS DON'T KILL BORES, BAD CLEANING DOES!

 
Posts: 648 | Location: Huskerville | Registered: 22 December 2001Reply With Quote
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As for false readings, I understand the possibilities and factors that could cause such thoughts, but I can see the copper on the lands with my eye looking down the bore of both guns.

I also understand that I may be screwing the barrels up by "over-cleaning." That's why I don't use JB often. Maybe it's great, but maybe it's not. I've heard several thing that go either way.

This leads me back to the original theory of mine that all barrels would show copper on the lands if cut down the center. I only look in my own rifles.

Foul-Out was going to be my next step.

I don't think anyone LIKES to clean a gun, but I don't want to shoot these guns for fear of the aftermath cleaning.........and that's not right.

Jamison is one of the gun cranks that I follow, guess I missed that one, or I would have said "F" it along time ago. To all that tried to help me out, thank you all. I am going to load some rounds for the both of them, and shoot the hell out of them. If they start to drop rounds, I'll just wrap some fine grit sand paper around a tight brush and expedite the clean up.

 
Posts: 346 | Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico | Registered: 05 January 2002Reply With Quote
<hotdog>
posted
Grizz, you just said it yourself.The rifle was picked up in a pawn shop? No one checked the bore when it was purchased????? You're kidding me right?????? The article was in the American Rifleman, I tried it, it works fer me, But you just go on and do what you want ta. My rifles are clean. Luck hotdog
 
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Install quality lapped barrels
Lap factory barrels ( I use NECOs fire lap)
Outers FoulOut.

Cooper fouling robs a good barrels accuracy.
Rigourous scrubbing (Drill driven brush-you are kidding ruins barrels.

Wally

 
Posts: 472 | Location: Oregon | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Wally, My thoughts exactly! How anybody could recomend spinning a brush in a rifled barrel of any kind is beyond me! I wonder how long it would take to make a smooth bore out of a rifle?

Hotdog Like I said MY NEPHEW bought the gun, without consulting me first. It appears as though someone else tried your method on it, hence the scratches. It looks like about a 5/16X24 thread! And like you said, you do what you want ta with your guns, I'll pass thankyou.

------------------
if you run, you just die tired

 
Posts: 596 | Location: Oshkosh, Wi USA | Registered: 28 July 2001Reply With Quote
<bigcountry>
posted
Drill driven??? Goes to show you shouldn't believe half what you see and none what you hear.

The drill wouldn't be going with the grain of the metal!! Thats bad.

 
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