Had some factory winchester ammo brass with crimp impressions on the neck that I reloaded split from the crimp marks. Havent had new unprimed brass split just reloaded factory ammo brass

Thought id start a thread again on, How you anel your cases, tips. How many reloads between when you anel again.

Probably more than ya need but:

Annealing


Smedley

PS I have found that WW cases seem to be more brittle and neck split much easier than R-P cases. I do not anneal myself and by neck sizing I can get quite a few shots out of a case before seeing any problems.

I just finished my annealing table from a fan motor and rheostat with bushings made for case sizes at the machine shop. I would think that for most uses, every 5 rnds or so should do it.

The world record holder in the IBS 1000yd game annealed his cases EVERY FIRING to maintain nk tension. For absolute accuracy, I would go no more than every 3 firings but would probably lean on every 1-2 firings. Keep in mind this is from asking questions and beginning to do it for myself as well. It takes a bit of getting used to to get the hang of it. I gathered 1x fired brass from the range to practice with.

I'm a firm beleive in annealing. I've had many improvements from doing it. the method i use. is as follows: get a container full of water. get a mapp gas torch. turn on the mapp gas torch and rotate only the neck on the flame. when your fingers get warm from rotating the brass in the flame drop the brass in the container or water and you are done with that piece of brass. go on to the next piece. that time it takes varies but we are not talking about minutes here, but seconds. i like to have the water rught under that flame so i just let go and the brass falls into the cool water. the hot brass with make a sound immediately upon entering the cool water. if yo have any questions on this email me at nedozier@utep.edu hope this helps out and doesn
t muddy the waters.

I too made an annealer, but used a tape deck motor to spin a little table on which the case sits, then pluck it into water.

I anneal ever other firing. Why not?

I anneal only between 50-70 cases at a time so I do it manualy. This is how I do it.
Cases are deprimed and polished.
Tempilaq liquid (475 deg F) is painted onto the case, about 5mm below the shoulderof the case, a 7mm08. (When the temp reaches 475 at this point, the neck temp should be just right.)
I have a case holder with a bit on the bottom which fits into a drill or electric screwdriver. The cases fits into this holder without having to be forced in and the case can be dumped into water simply by upending the case holder over a bucket with cold water.



My heat source is a butane micro torch, with the flame about 1" long and the tip of the flame is directed at the mouth of the case, while the case is being rotated. In the last picture, the flame tip is too far from the case neck, it should be touching the case mouth.
Once the tempilaq melts, the case is dumped into the cold water. It takes about 12 seconds for the case to reach the desired temp.
I do this every 5 reloads.
Just my 2 cents worth

Thomast, Is that the hornady kit? The above link says to use 650 degree marker...instead of the 475 that comes with the kit.

Do you anneal and then neck turn or neck turn and then anneal?

GSP7- no its not the Hornady kit, the shell holder is home made. By placing the flame tip at the mouth of the case, this part heats up more. The temperature rises, at the same time radiating down the neck, shoulder and body of the case. By the time the tempilaq melts at 475 degs, the temperature on the case neck opening will be in the region of 650 degs.If one uses a indicator of 650 degs , it would mean placing the mark on the neck, where you are directing your heat source at and false reading would be possible, because the marker might melt before the brass reaches the desired temperature, hence my method of keeping the tempilaq out of the fire zone, so to speak. I found that the tempilstik crayons wouldnt mark the polished brass as easily as the liquid does.
woods - I neck turned my brass (Lapua)first and used them 5 times before annealing them for the first time.

The tempisticks are a waste of money. It wont mark on the brass case. Like trying to see if a faint pencil mark will melt. Need a good dab of paint. All I found was the stick at a welding shop. Guess I will have to order the laq.

quote:

Originally posted by GSP7:
The tempisticks are a waste of money. It wont mark on the brass case. Like trying to see if a faint pencil mark will melt. Need a good dab of paint. All I found was the stick at a welding shop. Guess I will have to order the laq.

I use the temp stick and have found if the case is clean it's not to difficult to get it to stick. However, I only use it on 3-5 cases to get a "time" to keep the case neck in the flame. I use an electirc screw driver with the Lee adapter for case trimming. I put a ring of tempstick behind just below the shoulder of the case. Of course all cases are deprimed also. When I put the case neck into the propane flame I start counting one thousand one, one thousand two, etc. until the tempstick melts. When the tempstick melts (usually get the discoloration also) I plunge the case into cold water (a coffee can 3/4 full works fine) almost to the Lee shell holder and swish it for a couple seconds. It cools right off and the case is easily removed from the Lee shell holder and another case put in. After the 5 cases I average the count and then just count for the remainder of the cases in that batch. The count time varies with the heat of the flame, the brass thickness and of coarse the caliber of the case being annealy. The more brass to be heated the longer the count.

This method is by far the easiest, quickest and most effective method of annealing cases and believe me I have tried them all over the years. I found most of the methods to be a pain to use and most often avoided annealing. Since using this method I no longer avaid the task of annealing as it goes quickly and easily with little muss or fuss.

Larry Gibson

Yea , I guess you just have to play around with some old brass.
I keep the lights offin my shop and tryed what I could get to mark on the case with the stick and found its easyer to just watch the neck start to turn marroon, just before red and dump it in water. I can see that better than the templistick mark melt or turn black

I noticed the flame starts to "feather" off the case neck just as it starts to turn maroon. Very noticeable.

Color change seems easyer than watchin for paint to melt...

quote:

Originally posted by GSP7:
...Color change seems easyer than watchin for paint to melt...

Same thing you noticed for me.

Thanks for this thread guys. I was just about to ask questions about annealing. I, like most of you, have found that neck tension (strangle hold) is important to accuracy/consistency. I have just never really gotten around to annealing yet.

I just started trying aneling. Did another batch of 20 this afternoon, 6.5x55 this time, norma brass had 5 loadings on it.

i say screw that templilag- and templistick stuff. Tryed templistick

Its easyer to just watch the color and flame as your case is spiniing in the drill. In my dark garage lights off, its easyer to just watch for the color just starting to turn maroon(before red) and drop it in the water.

Trying to see the tempistick melt or turn black is harder to watch.

My 20 cases I just did was a cake walk and took about 10 minutes.

I used a old aluminum aircraft plumping fitting chucked in my drill. The brass fit perfect in side it and the sides were high with shoulder and neck sticking out so the aluminum disapated the heat from the case sides and head.

O/T, but, I made up a powder trickler that works slick.

4" of 1/2" copper tube, soldered a cap on one end, slip fit of the other one an drilled a 1/4" hole in center of the cap. Sure works nice and didn't break my bank for a change.

I like this fitting idea though won't use it as I've made one of steel on the lathe.
George