Does anyone having any info/results from using 4064 with 270 gr. bullets in their .375: preferred charges of powder, accuracy, velocity, maximum charges of powder your rifle will handle, etc. I'm working up loads with 270 gr. Barnes in my 25" barrel and am wondering what you've found. thank you.

68 grains with 300 grains and 71 grains with 270 grains. Will be around 2450 with 300s and between 2600 and 2650 with 270 grains.

Old Winchester factory ammo used non canistered 4064.

If shooting kangaroos, pigs and goats is a sin with a 375 using 4064 then I will be in Hell for a long time.

That is one thing I like about the 375; it works well with a wide range of powders from 3031 to the slow ones.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
That is one thing I like about the 375; it works well with a wide range of powders from 3031 to the slow ones.

3031 burn rate is 65 and 68 grains. About as close as you can get to the original cordite loads in bot powder weight and velocity, like 4064 velocity.

If you fire a 375 a real lot the difference in recoil with the 3031/4064 burn rate as compared to very compressed loads of 4350 or top Re 16 loads is very significant. I have used a 375 for 7 days straight including spotlight shooting with 3031/4064 loads. I could do that with compressed 4350 or top Re 15 loads.

I have always felt recoil was a key consideration in the design of the 375. When introduced it was a calibre for everything in Africa from mice to elephant and of course back in those days on Africa a lot more shots were fired.

I have used the 375 H&H using my own reloads with 4064, 760, 4831, and RL 15 with various bullets and mfg. on three separate water buff cull hunts in Australia. When shooting at game, I hardly notice the recoil. Shooting off the bench to test loads is a different experience.

Like most, it is more of a matter of perception at the time when the trigger is pulled. The 375 H&H is simply an amazing cartridge that will be around for another 100 years as it shoots a variety of loads and bullets close point of aim with superb accuracy and lethality.

Geoff

Yes it will, I think as well. Although an antique design, it still does the job.
Many don't realize that the powder weight contributes to recoil equation; not just the bullet weight. So that extra powder will recoil more. Most noticeable in double rifles where it is not just the velocity that makes for regulation, but how the bullet got to that velocity, and the powder weight.

Apart from the very tapered case the belted case allows for a sloppy chamber, good if dirt on cartridges etc.

Belted cases (and rimmed) are good for very reduced loads as the headspace does not increase a few thou each shot. With very reduced loads the primer blast drives a rimless case forward but the load does not have enough pressure to fireform the brass back.

With rimless cases I use to neck them up then run through FLS die which puts a little shoulder at the base of the neck.

Back in the day, 4064 was THE powder for the .375 H&H, about everyone used it, but the .375 works with a lot of powders, its an easy keeper..Today I like RL-15 in my 375 H&H..

A belted case should be loaded like any rimless case once its fireformed...headspacing on the belt is a poor practice, always has been, it over works brass and case life suffers..

Ray is absolutely right about not head spacing on the belt. It could cause you big problems.The head of the case could pull off of the case after a dozen reloads or so.
Even with head spacing off the shoulder I still use the Collet Die from Larry Willis at Innovative Technologies, about every fourth loading if I am using heavy loads on belted cases. Just my opinion. Brian

Reloading a 375 case or any rifle case close to a "dozen" times or more can also cause big problems for the shooter.

An old friend who has since passed, blew up his Model 70, pre-64 with a very expensive custom stock on his 14th reload of 7 x 57. Brass is cheap, beautiful custom rifles are not. Fortunately, he suffered only minor cuts.

Geoff

I reload cases until they show signs of failure.

But when I go hunting its either new or once fired brass for the most part.

quote:

crbutler
one of us
posted 28 March 2020 05:26 Hide Post
I reload cases until they show signs of failure.

Same here. A safe practise in my experience through years of handloading and almost all my hunting / shooting is with my own handloads. I don't use max loads and as a rule of thumb find brass failure starts somewhere close to 20 reloads for most calibres I shoot. YMMV.
Almost always the first failure sign I see is neck splits. Far behind in second would be primer pockets too loose to firmly grip the primer.