1. If I shoot my .30-06 reloads in the same rifle, is neck resizing (rather than full length sizing) adequate?
2. Does RCBS make a carbide die to reload .30-06 so I don't need to lube cases?
3. If so do I still need to litely lube the inside case mouth before passing the expanding ball through the neck?

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Originally posted by Dennis Spender:
1. If I shoot my .30-06 reloads in the same rifle, is neck resizing (rather than full length sizing) adequate?

Yes

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2. Does RCBS make a carbide die to reload .30-06 so I don't need to lube cases?

You always have to lube rifle brass carbide or not.

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3. If so do I still need to litely lube the inside case mouth before passing the expanding ball through the neck?

Yes you still need to lube no matter what.

Pistol cases are the only one you don't lube with carbide dies.
Kerry

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1. If I shoot my .30-06 reloads in the same rifle, is neck resizing (rather than full length sizing) adequate?
2. Does RCBS make a carbide die to reload .30-06 so I don't need to lube cases?
3. If so do I still need to litely lube the inside case mouth before passing the expanding ball through the neck?

Yes if the rifle will feed the cartridges from the magazine you should be good to go. After a few firings you will have to bump the shoulder back a bit or do a full lenght resize also depending on the rifle. Keep track of how much your cases stretch and trim accordingly.

Can't comment on the RCBS die but you could use powdered graphite lube for the inside of the necks and what ever lube you prefer for the outside. I like imperial sizing wax my self you need very little boyh inside and out. I put my resized brass in the tumbler for a couple of hours to remove the lube inside the necks. The outside of the cases I wipe off with a rag before tumbling.

1. What do you mean "bump the shoulder back a bit"?
2. When using a progressive press, tumbling the cases and wiping them off would seem to slow the process down enough that single stage presses seem nearly as fast.
Dennis

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Originally posted by Dennis Spender:
When using a progressive press, tumbling the cases and wiping them off would seem to slow the process down enough that single-stage presses seem nearly as fast.

Yes. With set-up time, perhaps faster.

It comes down to how much you are trying to get out of the press.
If using a progressive you need to set things up for production. Cleaning the cases after sizing is not feasible on a progressive. It can be done but will slow the production rate down to equal a single stage press.

If cleaning the cases after sizing is not feasible on a progressive, why use a progressive for rifle calibers?

What does Hipster mean by "bumping the shoulder back a bit"?

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Originally posted by Dennis Spender:
If cleaning the cases after sizing is not feasible on a progressive, why use a progressive for rifle calibers?

You can clean the case after it's loaded if you use the right lube.

Bumping the shoulder back is exactly what it says.
You need to occasionally set the shoulder back by full length sizing.

what's the right lube, Imperial? with graphite for the neck?

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Originally posted by Dennis Spender:
What does Hipster mean by "bumping the shoulder back a bit"?

Sorry to reply to you so late sometimes work gets in the way. Bumping the shoulder back means pushing the shoulder of the case rearward untill is chambers with a small bit of resistance. you can smoke the neck of a fired case with a candle and then place the case in your press and adjust the die untill it just touches the neck shoulder junction this will remove the soot from this area ( or at least leave a mark on the soot)try chambering the case in the rifle if it is still a really tight fit screw your die down a 1/4-1/2 a turn and repeat. Once you get the sizing right you can size all your cases. I do not keep the case I use to set my dies as it might get sized a few times and will be more work hardned than the others.

Yes you can use imperial wax on the outside and a graphite powder on the inside then you only have to wipe the outside of the cases to remove the imperial lube. To keep life simple for myself I just use imperial inside and out chuck the cases in my tumbler and tumble for a couple of hours to remove the lube. If I want really shiney cases I let the tumbler run for 8-10 hours.

When neck sizing with a neck sizer die you do not need to use lube.

In the old days (not the REAL old days) we used to have to FL size after a few firings to bump the shoulders back to the original headspace. Then Redding came up with a body bump die that resets headspace without resizing the body or neck. Now Forster has a Neck AND body bump die, which is quite good and cost effective as well. You still need a FL sizer die to size the first time with new brass.

quote:

Originally posted by Dennis Spender:
1. If I shoot my .30-06 reloads in the same rifle, is neck resizing (rather than full length sizing) adequate?
If the rifle is a front-locking bolt action or other non-springing action and the chamber is cut reasonably well, then neck-sizing only usually works just fine.[/
2. Does RCBS make a carbide die to reload .30-06 so I don't need to lube cases?
A Lee collet die does not require either inside or outside neck lubrication.
3. If so do I still need to litely lube the inside case mouth before passing the expanding ball through the neck?

Neck sizing with a conventional die (whether a dedicated neck-sizing die or a full-length die backed off) usually requires neck lubrication both inside and out.

As to the use of a progressive press for rifle loading, such presses are typically reserved for high volume handgun shooting. Rifle cases beg to be processed by stage and in batches fro sake of consistency and accuracy. This simply works best.

What does full length sizing do to the case? Does it compress the body, bump down the shoulder, and sqeeze the neck tighter, later opening the neck so the bullet fits?
Does neck sizing bump back the shoulder or squeeze down the neck?
What does a full length die backed off accomplish?Thanks

The full length resizer works pretty much the way you said it. The expander ball goes into the shell as the shell comes up. The shell enters the die and gets sized to a minimum spec. The neck gets compressed and the shoulder is shaped (How much the shell is resized depends on how you set and adjust your die. See backing off.) The expander knock out the primer near the bottom of the stroke. When the shell is lowered the expander ball stretches the neck out to final size.
When you neck size you don't move the shoulder or resize the body. On a bolt action rifle the brass will size to your chamber, after that you only have to neck size the next couple of reloads. For a semi-auto resizing is needed to ensure the shoulder is in the right place and the body hasn't streched larger than the chamber. If several guns are using the brass you'll have to full size it, or you have brass from several sources you'll have to full size it the first time you load it.
Backing off the die doesn't size the shell or touch the sholder but sizes most of the neck. On an extreamly loose chamber you may see a bump on the neck when you back the die off.
I think that some of the precision collet style neck dies size without an expander but I haven't used one.

The answer to your original question depends on the rifle. A Garand or other semi should be full length sized. A bolt gun should only be neck sized as long as the brass stays with that gun.
There are dry lubes but I've only used a pad and gel.
If you don't lub the expander or neck you'll excessively strech the shell. More neck trimming and shorter shell life.

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You still need a FL sizer die to size the first time with new brass.

In my experience, I have never had virgin brass not chamber in any of my rifles. I may need to straighten out dings in the necks with an expander (ie K&N), but I typically load virgin brass without FL resizing and let it 'size' to my chamber upon shooting it.

After it is fire-formed to my chamber, I use as Wilson die and arbor press to neck size only.