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new member |
Jurgen, Glad your first experience with the Loadmaster was a good one. Give it a little time and you may still want a Dillion. They are more expensive, but they are the best value. Vaya con Dios, Danbro | |||
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<1badassmagnum> |
the smaller the cases get,the more careful you'll need to be about powder charges.setup a maglite to make a visual check for correct charge when placing bullet for seating.enjopy the new toy...uh tool. | ||
one of us |
quote:Keep Dillon's number handy. You'll need it. Sooner or later. It's just a matter of time. Russ | |||
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one of us |
Get a shield over that primer feed. | |||
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one of us |
quote:Unprimed cases? Uh, did you keep the primer trough full of primers? I used to run out of primers until I learned to fill the trough, then put as many primers (100) in the tray as I got cases (2 boxes, ie 100). Then I fill the primer tray (100 primers) each time I get 2 more boxes of cases. Plastic? That complaint is because the metal finish looks like plastic in the pictures. Unless you consider black teflon finish on aluminum a plastic part. It has the same materials as dillon!!! Plastic, aluminum and some steel. Question: Did you use the case feeder? I don't. I just drop the case in front of the case feeder. It does twist my wrist a little. I have considered pumping the handle with my left hand and setting the bullet in station 5. I could then put a powder check die in station 4, but wouldn't be able to use a separate crimp die. Speaking of .223: Do you intend to verify the powder charge in the case? I can't see the powder in the .223 case when I set the bullet, and I won't remove, & reinsert the case to look!! And how are you going to measure the powder for the .223? JerryO | |||
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one of us |
quote:Last year I past on a 550 at a gun show set up for the 4 calibers I use the most. Complete with the heads and stands with powder measures. $400! Naw, my pro1000 works better. It's strange how many people can't figure how to run a pro1000, or passed on them because they are to cheap. Mine is super for the short pistol calibers (ie 9mm, 45acp) where powder verification can be done by looking at the powder as the bullet is set on the case mouth. Perhaps you could help me with understanding how dillon 550 users check powder in rifle calibers. I have asked before, but never really understood (recieved?) the answer. Anyway enjoy your dillon, over the time we use them the cost of my pro1000 and your dillon will both be cheap. JerryO | |||
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<J�rgen> |
Wow , what a bunch of replies !Thanks again for all your advice (concerning Dillon)! I guess I`ll go along with Jerry O , mine seems to be a simple machine and if there`s a problem it`s got to be me in the first place ! I`ll make me a piece of rod to check the powder in bottleneck cases , but unless you half/double stroke it , the chain will only allow one single powdercharge ! The reason why I missed the non-seated primers is cause I was too excited and too busy watching all stations at once ! Can you tell me if the powder is put into bottleneck cases via a die like in the 45 ACP ?It doesn`t have to be necked up like a pistol case ...???? Maybe a dumb question , but I haven`t seen it in any of the pictures in the catalogs! Thanks a lot , J�rgen | ||
one of us |
quote:I could do this. But I want a die station for it. I would fit a round wooden piece into the threads of the hole and have a wooden dowel that floats in a hole in the center. Or, buy a metal one called a 'powder check die'. And I don't check the powder because of a worry of an overcharge!! I am concerned about an undercharge. I had severe bridgeing of powder when I first tried my disk measure with some .38special target loads. I had 5 'nopowder' loads in a box of 50 rounds. Note that lee says flake powders don't work at very low charge weights. I found over 4.0 grains was required to get consistant charge weights with 700x and bullseye. quote:You imply that you can watch (check the number) the primers in the tray as each round is loaded. I doubt it. I certainly found out that I can't. That's why I said to fill the trough and arange the cases so the cases on the bench match the primers in the tray. Then when I run out of cases, I replenish both!!! I concentrate on checking (looking at) the powder as I set the bullet on the case mouth. I check (glance at) the primers when the box is full. Really everything but the powder is easy to check after the round is loaded. quote:And I thought I asked this first!! Lee has two schemes to put powder into a .223 case. Each powder measure (disc and rotary) has its own special die to drop powder into the rifle case while in the press. Each special die has a reverse cone that contacts the case mouth on the top but doesn't go inside the mouth. One is to use the disc powder measure, the double disk kit, and the 'auto disc rifle chargeing die'. I am not impressed with how the double disc kit fits together, but maybe a wrap of tape would hold them OK. I did consider makeing a powder bar out of wood, but never tried to. Since the loadmaster can handle longer (bigger) cases, lee also offers a universal chargeing die for the 'perfect powder measure'. This has a non-moving rod that turns the drum as the case pushes the powder measure up. a chain around the drum pulls the measure down as the ram reaches the bottom of the stroke. Remember, this measure jams with very fine pistol powder (ie. H110). It seems to be made for stick type powder. Before you go with the lee powder drop for a rifle, remember that a dillon measure with much larger capacity should also work. Don't like dillon? RCBS and Hornady both have adapters to use their measures on a progresive reloader. The lee loaders work great for 9mm and .45acp. But I haven't loaded rifle rounds with them so I can't be sure on them. My primary concern is powder checking, as I have stated. I have the same concern with the dillon 550, as it doesn't provide room for a powder check die. JerryO | |||
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one of us |
J�rgen, Some said that there are too many plastic parts , well that`s right , but if they do the job , how can I argue ? Wear , maybe , but that`ll take some years of use. [/QUOTE] This is just a question of time to get problems because of all of these plastic parts. I'm agree with other posts, one day you'll get a Dillon 550. I tell you that because I'm wondering to get it | |||
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<J�rgen> |
JerryO , thanks for your time to answer my (dumb) questions , now things look differently than before ! I`ll call my distributor and we`ll see how knowledgeable he is when it comes to LEE parts !May I ask you for a favour .....where can I find a complete listing of these LEE parts ?Preferably with a description and not with just part no. and the name of the item ??? Bernard , I knew you`d suggest the Dillon , but I don`t like the promotion this company makes and therefore I`m not gonna buy any of their products !Period ! Once again , thank you for your replies ! | ||
<Martindog> |
quote:Lee's website, www.leeprecision.com, includes parts names, item numbers, and most have a picture with them. All are obtainable through Lee as replacement parts. Martindog | ||
new member |
My advise would be to stock up on primer feed parts. When one gets cocked you then have a broken primer feed. That does not happen with a dillon. Been there, done that, had Lee, now have Dillon, also a forester for the projects I don't want to do on a progressive. You will get there also. | |||
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one of us |
quote:Or you could have put a drop of lube on the O-ring at the pivot point of the primer arm. Ohh, my the primers feed so good when you maintain it properly! JerryO | |||
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<J�rgen> |
Maybe JerryO is right , it probably takes only a little care and maintenance to be as good or better than a Dillon .......now jump on me all you Dillon devotees ! | ||
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