Another stuck case in resizing die thread - for the reloading newbees.

As most of know I have tons of experience with straight walled cases. In all my years of reloading I have never stuck one, no not one.

But that record is gone. I stuck the very first .223 Rem case I tried in my .223 Lyman resizing die yesterday - the very first one I tried to resize, dang it. I guess I didn't lube it enough - lesson learned. And I was warned to watch out for .223, dah on me.

So, I went to Lowe's and bought me a #7 drill bit, a 1/4-20 tap, and a 1/4-20 tap bolt.
Before I left for Lowe's I gave the sides of the stuck case a few shots of Kroil - figured it couldn't hurt.

I was happy to see that DeWalt packages a #7 drill bit and a 1/4-20 tap in a single package - how convenient.

Then, I went to the hardware section and bought a 1/4-20 x 2 inch tap bolt - it is threaded all the way from top to bottom.

While looking for the tap bolt, I saw a 1.5 inch spacer and bought that, too, even though I realize a socket would have worked as well. But I was assembling the parts for a homemade stuck case remover set and I did not want to assign my socket to it.

I already had bunches of 1/4, 3/16, 1/2 inch washers to go on top of the spacer, so I didn't have to buy any of them.

I also bought a tap wrench (that was the major expense). I didn't really need it, but it sure made the task easier.


To actually remove the stuck case here's what I did:

1- I was able remove the deprimer/decapper pin so I knew I was not going to hit it with the #7 drill bit. I was trying to get it up out of the way and was happy that it came out. Otherwise, I would have tried to drill w/o hitting the depriming pin (at least, if I had hit it, it is replaceable.

2- After putting the die in my padded vise, I used the #7 drill bit to drill through the hole in the center of the primer pocket

3- Then, I used the 1/4-20 tap to thread the hole I had just drilled into the primer pocket.

4- Next, I placed the spacer on the die around the stuck case.

5- Finally, I put a number of washers on the bolt and then inserted the bolt through the spacer and screwed it into the threaded hole I drilled into the case.

6- Then, I just tightened down on the bolt and felt it smug up and stop against the washers atop the spacer. Time to get a long handle ratchet. The long handled ratchet made quick work of it. The spinning bolt pulled that stuck case right out into the spacer.

But you know, I was wondering. Instead of just turning the bolt, would it have been more efficient to put a nut on the bolt, and then hold the bolt while I tightened the nut against the washers on top of the spacer. That way, instead to the bolt turning as it pulled, the bolt would have just pulled the case straight up (like the press ram pulls it straight down).

I know I just reinvented the wheel, but buying these few parts was a lot less costly the buying one of those stuck case removal kits online.

This thread is the compilation of much research on how to remove a stuck case, so I thought I'd give you all a "Cliff Notes" version on removing a stuck case form a resizing die..

Hope no one minds.

Hack

Well, yeah, that will work I guess, but you're missing the point entirely about buying the stuck case removal kit from RCBS (or similar)!

The reason to buy the kit is SO YOU NEVER STICK ANOTHER CASE!

I'm telling you it's magic, and it works. I bought mine like 20 years ago and haven't stuck a case since!

Hummm, maybe I should have bought one of those kits and let the magic work.

Hack

quote:

Originally posted by btefft:
...maybe I should have bought one of those kits and let the magic work.

Yours should work the same way.

Hey btefft, I did about the Exact same thing last year. I had about all the things you went out to get. Still hated trying to find and rig a makeshift device. Rather go shopping with my wife. Then I bought the real Stuck Case Remover. I still have the die with the chewed up 223 brass in it. I may try to get it out someday. Didn't really like those Hornady dies anyway. It was my fault, I thought I could get by with what was on the die. I did a few times then BUSTED! Don't want to ever go through that again. What case lube were you using? I heard Cabelas doesn't have enough lanolin in it. Heard about two days after I recieved it. Anyone know if this is true. I'm still using Dillons. Getting low and don't want to chance using Cabelas if this is true. Wondered if you can get a small amount of lanolin somewhere and just mix it in. Hate to throw that new Cabelas bottle away. It just kinda ruins a lot of time better spent reloading. Know how you feel.

quote:

Originally posted by bigvarmint:
Hey btefft, I did about the Exact same thing last year. I had about all the things you went out to get. Still hated trying to find and rig a makeshift device. Rather go shopping with my wife. Then I bought the real Stuck Case Remover. I still have the die with the chewed up 223 brass in it. I may try to get it out someday. Didn't really like those Hornady dies anyway. It was my fault, I thought I could get by with what was on the die. I did a few times then BUSTED! Don't want to ever go through that again. What case lube were you using? I heard Cabelas doesn't have enough lanolin in it. Heard about two days after I recieved it. Anyone know if this is true. I'm still using Dillons. Getting low and don't want to chance using Cabelas if this is true. Wondered if you can get a small amount of lanolin somewhere and just mix it in. Hate to throw that new Cabelas bottle away. It just kinda ruins a lot of time better spent reloading. Know how you feel.

I have been using Hornady's One Shot, with great success.

I guess I didn't use enough. One guy said the he lays his brass on a cookie sheet and then sprays it.

He said the One Shot works its way all around.

Said he's never had a stuck case - guess I'll try that next.

Hack

Two comments learned from hard experience;
With a new die clean all preservative oil out.
Petroleum based oil will not stand the high
pressure generated when you resize.
Also get Imperial Die Wax and never look at
anything else.
good luck!

quote:

Originally posted by hawkins:
Two comments learned from hard experience;
With a new die clean all preservative oil out.
Petroleum based oil will not stand the high
pressure generated when you resize.
Also get Imperial Die Wax and never look at
anything else.
good luck!

A HUGE AMEN to that advice....

Don

Be sure and let the cases sit for 3-5 minutes after spraying them with any lube. The "carrier" needs to evaporate leaving only the lube on the cases.

Using them to quickly, will set them up like the lube was water.

+2 hawkins.
Cleaning the dies on a regular basis really helps me with accuracy as well.

Many have recommended Imperial Wax and Hornady's Unique to me.

Both are sold by Midway and both have rave reviews, with Imperial having about 3 x's more. You swipe your finger tips across the wax and as you handle your brass, it gets lubed.

The prices are:
Imperial - 6.49 for 2 ozs (and it was on sale)
Hornady - 4.09 for 4 ozs

I'm gonna try the Hornady Unique.

Hack

How the heck do you get the decapping pin out of the die?

When I have stuck cases in RCBS dies, the decapping pin gets ruined in the tap and drill process.

I think there are two sorts of people: Those who have stuck cases in their sizing dies, and those who will.

Yep. Have one of those kits that Slowpoke Slim mentioned. Still NIB after about ten years.

I've been used the Imperial wax for a couple of years - great stuff! Would have changed over several years ago, but hated not using up the bottles of lube on hand.

quote:

I didn't lube it enough - lesson learned. And I was warned to watch out for .223, dah on me.

Yep. And be aware that there is no magic in the .223, ALL bottle neck caaes are prime candidates for sticking.

Seems most of us do a great job of lubing the upper part of the case and somthimes not so good at lubing the lower, thick part. And...THAT'S were they get stuck!

quote:

Originally posted by SlamFire:
How the heck do you get the decapping pin out of the die?

When I have stuck cases in RCBS dies, the decapping pin gets ruined in the tap and drill process.

I think there are two sorts of people: Those who have stuck cases in their sizing dies, and those who will.

That has been my luck I have ruined 3 different die sets now all I buy is Dillon & Redding dies
You can remove the decaping pin and either punch out the offending case or use the stuck case system. Good Luck

quote:

Originally posted by Jim C. <><:

quote:

I didn't lube it enough - lesson learned. And I was warned to watch out for .223, dah on me.

Yep. And be aware that there is no magic in the .223, ALL bottle neck caaes are prime candidates for sticking.

Seems most of us do a great job of lubing the upper part of the case and somthimes not so good at lubing the lower, thick part. And...THAT'S were they get stuck!

The small rimless cases of the .222/.223 variety are prime candidates for the rim pull off magic. The rims are not very strong.
Some rough interior dies that size to the minimum possible dim are certified rim pullers.

OTH I have never had a rim pull off of a 45-70.

After 38 years of reloading I finally stuck an -06 case in a brand new Hornady die. I tried what you did and broke the bolt in two.

Bought a new die(and another 100 free bullets).

Gotta get one of those stuck case removal kits so I don't ever stick another one.

I just epoxied the primer pocket to seal it, put the die in a vice and used an airline to blow the case out.


It was fun

Your idea sound much better...

Regards,

GH