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Ladder Test
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Can you perform the Ladder test with new brass or does it have to be fireformed? I am trying to find the best load for my 6 MM Remington. What are your experiences with this test? I am using 70 grain Sierra BTHP with Hod. H4350 starting 48.2 gr. working up to 50.2 in .2 gr. increments.
Thanks
 
Posts: 5 | Registered: 02 January 2018Reply With Quote
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You can use new brass. I prefer fire formed to the chamber of the rifle I will be working loads up for. The fire form brass will have a little more case capacity.
 
Posts: 2134 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 26 June 2000Reply With Quote
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The test will work with new brass. IMO, you're kinda tight on your increments. At what distance are you shooting?


Aim for the exit hole
 
Posts: 4348 | Location: middle tenn | Registered: 09 December 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
you're kinda tight on your increments

tu2 I agree. Remember the longer the distance to target the better. I wouldn't attempt it at 100yds


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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What I have learned as used the ladder method that I can pass on:
1) Distance to target should be as far as possible. At 200 yds. interpreting the data can be challenging, 300 yds. Is easier, and so on......
2) Shoot in consistent conditions.
3) VERY solid rest.
4) For the test, use the best optics you have. You must have a consistent point of aim.
5) This is where your ego must check out, if you are not consistent with hold, and more importantly trigger control, ask a known shooter for help. Either have them shoot it, or teach you some of the skills. (If I need a sporter rimfire evaluated, I have my daughter shoot it for me. She is steadier, and lighter on the trigger.)
As to your question of brass, new, once fired, doesn’t matter just test with one or the other.
Good luck, and have fun,
Doug
 
Posts: 478 | Location: Central Indiana | Registered: 22 February 2005Reply With Quote
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what rifle/cartridge are you shooting? All of the above is good info. Especially the one about trigger control. One trick you can try, once you get the rifle all snugged down in the bags, dry fire several times to get your eye and finger acquainted with the trigger pull. If you have a factory trigger with an attached lawyer that gives you a 5+# pull or the trigger has a gritty creep before it breaks, abandon your project until you can have a smith clean up the trigger and adjust it to a nice, crisp 3-3.5# break.


Aim for the exit hole
 
Posts: 4348 | Location: middle tenn | Registered: 09 December 2009Reply With Quote
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I will be shooting at 300 yards off of a sturdy tripod, the same way I will be varmint hunting. It is a very solid rest with fine adjustments. I shoot free recoil,just touch the trigger. The trigger is 2 oz. Jewell. I read on another sight that the most important thing is the change in velocity for each load. The sweet spot will be where there is minimal change and that corresponds to the vertical spread at the target. In reality you can shoot them through a chronograph, Oehler 35P, without a target.
Thanks
 
Posts: 5 | Registered: 02 January 2018Reply With Quote
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I don't know about shooting through a Chrony. Sounds like it would work though. One thing the ladder does is help you center your sweet spot so you have some leeway in your load. I have a couple of target rifles the will shoot loads +/- 2grs of powder into one ragged hole at 100 yards.


Aim for the exit hole
 
Posts: 4348 | Location: middle tenn | Registered: 09 December 2009Reply With Quote
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