Are you full lenght resizing or neck sizing?

It sounds like the cases are too tight for the chamber....and maybe when the bullet is against the lands, that it pushes the case back far enough that the shoulder does not drag on the chamber.

I can tell you from experience that an 1/8th turn of the resizing die can make the difference between the case fitting too tight to just right, which means no drag when I close the bolt on a resized case. I test all my cases after neck sizing to see if they drag, and if they do, then it is time to full length resize those cases.

I set my fl resizing die by taking the tightest case I found, and adjust the resizing die till that case can be chambered in my rifle without drag. It is then set to resize the rest of the tight cases.

Eddie

So, my next questions are, what bullet? What kind of rifle? What COL? Have you measured the daimeter neck of loaded rounds that are hard? Measure the diameter of the necks some fired rounds that chamber easily?

Not necessarily a beginners task, but a chamber casting with Cerrosafe might be helpful. All of our ideas are helping us diagnose the relationship of the loaded round to the chamber. A casting would eliminate a lot of trial and error questions.

But I would start with measuring case dimensions of the rounds that laod easy and those that don't.

Do you have a good caliper?

Roger

quote:

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Originally posted by mike elmer:

I set my fl resizing die by taking the tightest case I found, and adjust the resizing die till that case can be chambered in my rifle without drag. It is then set to resize the rest of the tight cases.

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Elmer,
thanks for that tip.
Daryl

This rectangular piece of metal with some strange notches on it is the firing pin. Before we remove it TAKE NOTE that there is a small notch just in front of this protrusion that it rest in. This is the cocking notch on the bolt body and when we replace the firing pin it must be back in this position (not hard).

With the bolt secure in the vice take a pair of pliers and holding this protrusion from the sides pull it back about � inch. I do like to place a couple of layers of duct tape on the pliers jaws as not to scratch anything. It will take a fair amount of force to pull against the firing pin spring. When you get it back 1/8 to � inch you will notice a small notch cut on the left side of the very back of the firing pin as it pulls back out of the bolt. Remington has cut this notch to fit a penny (at least they know my budget). Place a penny in this notch to hold the firing pin spring pressure as you let it off with the pliers.

The entire firing pin with the shroud will easily unscrew from the bolt now. Don�t throw the firing pin around and knock out the penny.

Now that the firing pin is out you will find the bolt just flops around in the gun and it is very easy to tell where any tight spots are in your cases.

1. Resize a case and try to chamber it, case only, no bullet primer or powder. Now you need to place the case in the bolt face, under the extractor clip and hold it in line with the chamber with your fingers as you start it in. The spring-loaded ejector is going to be trying to kick it out. Do not try to chamber from the magazine as the case mouth will surely be dented and give a false indication if a chamber problem. Slowly chamber the case. You can easily fell any tight spots with the firing pin removed. If it is tight at the very end your case needs to be sized down more. (OR, not as likely, a case neck/length problem) Now, slowly remove the case and hold it in place with your fingers as it comes out and remove it. With a micrometer check the neck diameter against a resized one to see if the chamber has reduced the neck diameter (not likely in a factory gun). Now look closely at the case mouth to see if it has been dented or crimped in anywhere because your brass is too long. If all looks good proceed to step 2.

2. Take that same case and seat your bullet upside down in it. Screw the bullet-seating stem down (not the whole die) until you have only a slight hint of the base of the bullet protruding from the case mouth. AKA like a wad cutter pistol round. Paint the case neck and bullet with a black marks-a-lot. Use the same chambering method and see if there is any resistance at the end. NOW DON�T GET HORSEY HERE. If it is tight, the cam action on the bolt can wedge it in the chamber and after you pull the case rim off you will be driving a ramrod down the barrel to knock the case out. If it chambers tight at the end it is an indication you need to outside turn your necks and the black marks-a-lot will be scratched to verify this.

3. To replace the firing pin, place the bolt back in the vise. Screw it in by hand until it stops. They typically screw in to just past the cocking notch. Back it out just until the pin matches up to the cocking notch and relive the pressure off the spring with the pliers and remove the penny. Make sure the pin is in the cocking notch or the bolt won�t close.

OK, this sounds more complicated than it really is. It is just hard to put on paper and I could show you in 30 seconds how to do it. I remove my firing pin every time I clean the gun and blow it out with carburetor cleaner then mist it with oil.

The bullet seating depth is puzzling. Marks-a-lot the end of a round to make sure it is not hitting anywhere. Verify correct bullet diameter. DO NOT CRIMP. I LOAD OVER 30 CALIBERS AND DON�T CRIMP ANYTHING. Lots of reasons for this but I�m tired of typing.

Shoot safe,
Mike