Going to throw some powder in and seat the bullets. Should the bullets go in dry or should I apply an extremely light amount of oil in the case neck? Thanks!

The last thing you want to do is contaminate your powder, among other problems you'll create.
Dry.

YIKES...I hope you didn't read that somewhere. If so the print should be banished. Anyhow you don't even want to leave normal case lube in your casemouths. Dry powder lubes ok....but remove any other lubes. I've seen RCBS lube react with the bullet and casing to where the bullet becomes almost "super glued" inside the case mouth after a year of storage.

Hey dubs22-250 you don't need to lube the bullet
(assuming it's a copper jacketed type as opposed to a hand cast lead bullet).
The presses are so powerful it can cram anything into the cartridge case.
If for some reason you what to ease the bullets passage into the case mouth I have read that a fine graphite or mica powder can used, you just dip the case mouth into one of the the afore mention powders to the depth the bullet will seat to. The dry powder lube won't contaminate the propellant.

It's all good.....I just wanted to make sure that you are only using a small amount for resizing the neck and then cleaning that before dumpin' the powder. I'm actually smarter than some of my questions may make me seem. I think outside the box a lot and would rather ask too many questions so my reloading is safe for both me and my gun!!!!

quote:

Originally posted by dubs22-250:
Going to throw some powder in and seat the bullets. Should the bullets go in dry or should I apply an extremely light amount of oil in the case neck? Thanks!

I would not put oil on the bullets, but if you try it, and it becomes standard operating procedure, then the nay-sayers will not not even admit, "Mistakes were made."

What does it all mean?
None of the geniuses I know are interested in handloading, we hand loaders need all the innovation we can get.

Plenty more room at the bottom.

quote:

The last thing you want to do is contaminate your powder, among other problems you'll create.
Dry.

I agree, apsolutly dry

Faina

You don't mention the cartridge but beyond contamination a certain amount of grip on the bullet assures proper combustion of the powder especially slow burning types.Expander dies must be the correct diameter and type and amount of crimp are important also.Tightly grip the cartridge and push down on the bullet - if the bullet moves into the case the grip is not tight enough !

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
...I would not put oil on the bullets, but if you try it, and it becomes standard operating procedure, then the nay-sayers will not not even admit, "Mistakes were made."

What does it all mean?
None of the geniuses I know are interested in handloading, we hand loaders need all the innovation we can get.

Plenty more room at the bottom.

Hey tnekkcc, I always Tumble my Cases to remove the Lube.

But your answer to Dubs question brings up some interesting thoughts. I'd say it depends on the Type of Load being created.

Some old Black Powder Cartridges used a Greased Felt Wad(liquid or semi-liquid lubricant). And I do believe the stuff squeezed into the grooves on Lead Bullets is a semi-dry Lubricant.

And I Moly Coat 99.5% of all my Bullets which is an amazing Dry Lubricant.

So, technically I've fired a lot of "Lubed" Bullets, but I've not "oiled" the Bullet or the Inside of the Neck prior to Seating.

Best of luck to you all.

HC,
If the dumbest guys on the internet think they are smart about handloading, what are we doing here?

We may have to face the fact that we are dumb too

While I have never purposely oiled the bullets, or case necks, I have also not always been as diligent about removing absolutely ALL of the lube before seating the bullets. All of my rifles shoot relatively well, i.e. 1" or better, so I don't know that it matters all that much. I have just never experimented with it that much.

I do know that for the first shot out of a barrel that has been stored oiled for a while, all I do is run one dry patch through it and shoot. I have seen no ill effects from it. There are several dry products that shooters use all the time, like moly and Fastex, that seem to work well, so as long as it doesn't contaminate the powder, it might be worth a try. Who knows, like tnekkcc said, heck, it may become the standard.

I noted a couple of years ago while doing some work with 9.3x62 that leaving traces case lube on the inside of the neck resulted in noticeable variances in velocity. I have since tried to keep lube to a vary minimum and uniform. I keep an old bore mop screwed into the bench next to my press, and pop the case over it twist and remove. Every now and again, I'll put a drop of case lube on the mop. I think it "cleans" more than it lubes, but it works. Kudude

quote:

Originally posted by tnekkcc:
HC,
If the dumbest guys on the internet think they are smart about handloading, what are we doing here?

We may have to face the fact that we are dumb too

There are a LOT of things that I don't understand. But..., I try to make that clear if I have no first hand experience in a particular area, unlike your close and personal buddy.
-----

Hey Kudude, When you run the Case over the Mop, is that just prior to Resizing or Loading?

Alright guys....I got it.....I got it. The press did seat the bullet just fine. That ram does has some serious lb per sq inch. One of the few times I was able to put something in a hole dry!!!!

Ok, how's this one: my bullets are seated in a semi-dry case neck.

I apply a graphite solution/alcohol suspension to the inside of the case neck (since I do not use an expander ball/button). As the alcohol evaporates (I let sit for about 10 minutes), I seat the bullet.

No problems to date, but then again, this isn't a traditional "lube" either.

Do it dry !!!

I ran into high pressure on ammo that had been stored over a year with lube (rcbs) in the case neck. This was ammo loaded to max loads but the few I shot out of this batch after loading had no problems...only the few rounds that were left in the box and shot a year or two later.
I then looked into most all my ammo that had been stored and found that if I tried to seat the bullet another .015" deeper it took quite a bit of force to "crack" the bullet loose. (And you would hear a pretty good little crack as it let loose.)
So, somehow the lube,bullet surface, and casing had set almost as if super glued. Since that time I take a narrow nylon neck brush and plunge a wet hvy duty shop paper towel into the case neck to remove lube after sizing. It takes about 4 minutes to do 20 cases. Well worth it for big game ammo. Probably wouldn't bother if it was a huge batch and I was gonna go shoot them on a dog hunt or something.
A while back on a forum a guy posted he had lost accuracy on ammo he loaded a year ago that had been stellar. I told him to do the "crack" test and sure enough his bullets had set during storage.
I guess what I'm saying is I would highly recomend you check stored ammo after a year or two to see if you are getting a reaction to your loading lubes/techniques.

quote:

Originally posted by Doc:
..I apply a graphite solution/alcohol suspension to the inside of the case neck ...

Hey Doc, Is it the Black Graphite? Do you use a Q-Tip or what?
-----

I've seen what kraky is talking about with the Case and Bullet getting somewhat "Stuck" together. Never thought about it being Lube related, but perhaps that is what it is.

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:
Hey Doc, Is it the Black Graphite? Do you use a Q-Tip or what?

Yes and Yes.

Some of the oldtimers will just spray their powder with a little WD-40 in order to lube the case necks as the powder is dropped. This saves a little time, but you still have to grease the primer pockets before seating the primers, so why not just do both at the same time ?

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Some of the oldtimers will just spray their powder with a little WD-40 in order to lube the case necks as the powder is dropped. This saves a little time, but you still have to grease the primer pockets before seating the primers, so why not just do both at the same time ?

When I grease my powder it won't go through my trickler very good.

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Some of the oldtimers will just spray their powder with a little WD-40 in order to lube the case necks as the powder is dropped. This saves a little time, but you still have to grease the primer pockets before seating the primers, so why not just do both at the same time ?

When I grease my powder it won't go through my trickler very good.

The trick is not to use grease....use vaseline!!

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Some of the oldtimers will just spray their powder with a little WD-40 in order to lube the case necks as the powder is dropped. This saves a little time, but you still have to grease the primer pockets before seating the primers, so why not just do both at the same time ?

When I grease my powder it won't go through my trickler very good.

The trick is not to use grease....use vaseline!!

LOL