Should you champer a case every time you reload?

If the case is propperly chamfered at initiual prep stage there should be no need to chamfer again untill there is a need to trim the length.

Von Gruff.

quote:

Originally posted by Von Gruff:
If the case is propperly chamfered at initiual prep stage there should be no need to chamfer again untill there is a need to trim the length.

Von Gruff.

Oh crap I'm suppose to chamfer my cases???

When I trim I hit them to remove the bur other than that I don't chamfer.

I only chamfer new brass and after trimming.

When I inspect the cases and find that the "growth" has been uneven I will hit them again to camfer them, but that is not every time. Always after trimming them.

+me on only after trimming, and if new case looks like it needs it.

I love not having to trim cases.

Red

As others have stated I chamfer only new brass and after trimming. One exception: some flat based bullets seem to seat better with a fresh chamfer.

Agree on only chamfering after trimming or on new cases but I do like and use only the Lyman VLD chamfer tool giving a chatter free shallower chamfer angle than most, supposedly better for BT bullets.

quote:

Originally posted by vapodog:

quote:

Originally posted by Von Gruff:
If the case is propperly chamfered at initiual prep stage there should be no need to chamfer again untill there is a need to trim the length.

Von Gruff.

If you're using a die with an expander, it should be sized to allow the bullet to seat precisely with or without a crimp.

If you're using boat tailed bullets, you don't need to chamfer.

quote:

Originally posted by wasbeeman:
If you're using boat tailed bullets, you don't need to chamfer.

In theory yes but even Sierra advise chamfering with BT bullets as eventually as the bullet is seated in the case it does reach full diameter and any little nick or rough edge on the mouth will scratch the bullet. How much effect small scratches have on the bullet flight and accuracy? Probably none for hunting accuracy if at all. Just like cleaning primer pockets, annealing case mouths, trimming to length, etc, I just like to cover all bases and produce the best product within my control when reloading.
By using the VLD chamfer tool I can pull bullets, which I do on occasions if deciding to change loads particularly with my 404, and they show absolutely no sign of having ever been loaded, just like new. Maybe not important in the whole scheme of things but then again nice to achieve.

Okay, I resisted until it was brought up by someone else: I find the "VLD" (long taper) chamfering tool far superior for the inside neck chamfering than the regular 45-degree tool regardless of the type bullet being used.

Since I don't crimp anything I load, I'm not concerned about how the taper of the mouth might impact crimping.

Once again we have someone trying too hard. I didn't say the mouths could be rough and ragged. I said you didn't need to chamfer with BT bullets. However, since I try to get it right the first time, I rarely pull bullets.
I think you should be commended though for your presumption to the high road of trying to be all you can be though.
As far as the VLD taper versue the "standard" chamfer tool, I haven't noticed any difference in seating bullets.

Every time I trim I chamfer.

I have a board [actually a kitchen cutting board] with my case trimmer and with both inside and outside Forester chamfer tool mounted on it so it is a quick process.

I trim my 450/400 and 450 No2 cases with a RCBS trim die and chamfer them with a C&H hand tool.

I do. I have a Giraud power trimmer that trims and chamfers in less than 3 seconds per case so it is no big deal to do it every time.

http://www.giraudtool.com/prod02.htm

Doug is a great guy that lives in Richmond,TX and is a Bayou Rifles Club member.

I trim, chamfer and clean primer pockets with a carbide uniformer every case, every firing. My thing...I like accurate guns AND ammo.

I ran some test with VLD bullets chamfering with a "regular" tool and with a long tapered "VLD chamfering tool" using my most accurate 223 load but couldn't see any difference in group size, but in a benchrest shooter any extra edge might get you the trophy.

One thing was quickly evident...the case AND the chamfering tool need to be mounted in some kind of fixture like a wilson case trimmer otherwise the chamfer will be cut off center and/or uneven.

For the average reloader just lightly chamfer otherwise you will get bullet jackets shavings...or not, it's your toy to play with...everyone has their own level of comfort just like the hamburger commercial, "Have it your own way".

Luck

Let me ask a question: one poster touched on the importance of getting the chamfer straight with the neck of the case. My question is since you are simply creating a little funnel so's the bullet can start into the neck, just how critical is it that it be precicely straight with the neck. Once the bullet has started into the neck, it will self correct so if the chamfer is slightly off, what difference does it make? The bullet sits in the little funnel and the case is held in place under it and the seater ram is pressing stright down so just how crooked can the bullet get.
I've chamfered cases "free hand" for years and never thought that I was creating a potential crooked cartridge.
FWIW, for another test, I loadeed up 50 .223 cartridges using my rock and rusty nail technique and had 7 that had a run out greater than .002 and the greater one was .007.

quote:

since you are simply creating a little funnel so's the bullet can start into the neck, just how critical is it that it be precicely straight with the neck.

It's only important to companies that make a living selling "thingys"

Thanks you all for your input!

OCD is somewhat common among more than a few handloaders.