I have some barnes XLC coated bullets that I have been loading. The problem I am having is the coating is being scraped off when I seat them. I have deburred the case mouth but doesn't seem to help. Anybody have any tips or tricks for loading coated bullets?

I had the same problem, I bought the Lee universal expander die and just put the slightest bell on the case mouth. your seater die should straighten the bell out. The other thing you might try is just bumping the case mouth against the next size expander ball, better if it is a tapered expander. Careful!! it only takes a little bit of bell.
Lyle

Lyman also makes and M die for cast lead bullets. It has an expander with just a bit of a bump on it to bell the case.

Get Lyman's VLD reamer, it's cheaper.

I've not used the Coated XLCs, but I do use Bullets that I've Moly Coated.

After you Deburr, you need to Polish the Casemouth. Varmit Al has a special small Cup on the end of a shaft with Steel Wool in it that he recommends.

But, I've got a simpler device. Take an old worn out 22cal Bore Brush(or a new one) and screw it into a handle. The handle of the Lyman VLD tool works fine as does the RCBS green handle. Then wrap the Brush with "0000 Steel Wool".

Stick it in the Casemouth and give it a couple of twists back and forth, while letting your fingers slide up on the Steel Wool to maintain pressure against the Casemouth.

Tap the open Casemouth against your knee to dislodge any tiny peices. Then look at it closely with magnification in comparison to a non-polished Casemouth.

As you Seat the Bullets, e-a-s-e them into the case, don't slam the handle down.

Now, if you are still getting the Coating pushed off, then you need a slightly larger Expander Button. Or, the suggestions above might fix it too.

I have both the lyman m die and the lyman low angle deburrer. The m die is cheap and is wonderful for expanding the wrinkles out of new brass. And then it has a slight step that you can use to bell the mouth. The low angle deburrer comes with a wood handle. Screw it out of the wood handle and throw away the handle and use a drill or put it in a RCBS trim station....that's what I did.
The M-die seems to leave case mouths just ever so slightly more open than a sizing die and I feel the easier seating gives me better runnout.
If you buy both your problem should easily go away and you'll be surprised at how often you reach for these two tools......a total investment of about $30 for the two and you'll have them a long long time.
If you want to experiment with a slight bell at the case mouth do what one of the former posters says....trim your brass and bump it against the sizing ball of the next size bigger die---ie if 308 brass bump it against a .338 die.

Thanks for all the helpful info guys. Hopefully I will not have any more problems.

thornell, I wouldn't sweat it too much. The coating on that part of your bullet is not what is bearing on the barrels rifling. I have disassembled many factory rounds which were loaded with coated bullets, and the coating was always absent in the portion of the bullet below the mouth of the case.

You probably need to use a different chamferring tool. This is the one I use:

http://precisionreloading.com/KMProducts.htm

I like the adjustable stop. No moly scraped from my bullets.