I told a friend that I would reload some 223 varmint rounds for him. He gave me his once fired brass and I put it in my RCBS precision mic. I'm getting a headspace of 0 to .006". I tried to adjust my Redding full length dies for .001-.002 bump on the shoulder because he's going to use them in a TC contender. My first question is why such a big difference in initial readings? Second question is why will my dies not bump back the shoulder? The instructions say to turn the dies back a quarter turn to prevent touching the shell holder. I adjusted to the shell holder and Im still not bumping the shoulder. Thanks for the help

quote:

Originally posted by highpower223:
I told a friend that I would reload some 223 varmint rounds for him. He gave me his once fired brass and I put it in my RCBS precision mic. I'm getting a headspace of 0 to .006".

Hey HP, I can't help you there because I live in a "Thingy Free" Zone. However, from the first-hand experience I had with Thingys, that variance is what made me forego them.

quote:

I tried to adjust my Redding full length dies for .001-.002 bump on the shoulder because he's going to use them in a TC contender. My first question is why such a big difference in initial readings?

Could just be the difference in the Temper of the Cases, but I'll stick with normal Thingy variation.

quote:

Second question is why will my dies not bump back the shoulder? The instructions say to turn the dies back a quarter turn to prevent touching the shell holder.

I do not have one of those Dies, but I will speculate it is simply the "Starting Point".

quote:

I adjusted to the shell holder and Im still not bumping the shoulder.

It may be as simple as needing to screw it in just a bit more. The Press Linkage has 0.001"-0.004" or so slop so it will work smoothly. You might just need to go into the Press a bit more(lower the Ram and screw the Die in slightly) and cause the Press to "Cam Over". You will be able to Feel it.

Or the Shell Holder might be a bit too thick. Shorten the top of the Shell Holder a few thousandths(0.003"-0.005") by holding it against the side of an Emory Wheel or the side of a Remington Wheel on a Side Grinder. (Ask Woods if you can File them down. )

However, all of the above does not take into account the most important aspect of Resizing for a Contender or any Break-Open rifle. The Cases should be Resized so they create a Snap-Close Fit. It doesn't mean spit about what ANY Thingy from ANY manufacturer reads, it only matters that the Action closes on the Case with a Snap-Close Fit.

So, you need his Contender to do this with.

Sermon ON: And you need him there doing it to avoid Lawsuits "IF" his Contender Ka-Booms. His Insurance would love to have someone paying for his hospital costs rather than them having to foot the Bill. If he dosen't want to Load His Own, then it is best to let him shoot factory ammo. If you are still living at home with your parents, they could loose their home. Sermon OFF

thanks for the input! todd

quote:

Sermon ON: And you need him there doing it to avoid Lawsuits "IF" his Contender Ka-Booms. His Insurance would love to have someone paying for his hospital costs rather than them having to foot the Bill. If he dosen't want to Load His Own, then it is best to let him shoot factory ammo. If you are still living at home with your parents, they could loose their home. Sermon OFF

Good point made.
Those that are too lazy or incapable of reloading just need to pay the price of factory ammo or not shoot.

Listen to Hot Core!! He knows.

I've had several Contenders in both rimmed and rimless and the ONLY way to adjust dies for them is the old size and try and size and try method.

Ray

Check out Mike Bellm's web site and his article on head space in Contenders and Encores...

He goes into a lot of that info...