Hello all. Let me start off by stating I am very green to reloading although I do consider myself somewhat knowledgeable about firearms and ammunition. My question is this... What cartridge should a newbie like myself start with? I was thinking .38 special or .45 ACP due to the fact they are relatively low pressure cartridges. My other options are as follows...
.45 ACP for a Kimber Raptor II or Sig P220
.38 Special or .357 Magnum for said GP100 or S&W 340PD
9mm for Sig P290RS, S&W M&P Shield, CZ75B SA
.30-30 for Marlin 336CS or Winchester 1894
.308 for M1A Scout or Ruger Gunsite Scout
.40 S&W for Glock 27 or S&W 4006TSW
.223 for BCM 20" AR, LWRC IC SPR 14.7 or Sig 516
8mm Mauser for Mauser M98
7.62x39 for Aresenal AK 47
.22-250 for Weatherby Vanguard Varmint Special

Let me finish by stating that before I even put my press together I read reloading handbooks by Hornady, Lyman and RCBS for a few months to make sure I knew what I was diving into. Thank you, I appreciate all the help I may receive from those in the know.

I'd start off with the .38 spec. The handgun doesn't throw the brass all over the place.
Keep reading the manuals, don't skip any of the free advice they have. Set yourself up with good, repeatable steps and don't change them.

Not sure it matters which you start with.
All require appropriate attention to detail and safety mindedness.
You will be hooked, I can assure you of that.

I started with rifle cartridges, then went to revolver, and finally with semi-auto handgun.

Rick is right: read, read, read, and read some more.

Finally, fwiw, there are more challenges to correctly loading semi-auto pistol cartridges than either of the other, in my estimation.

Welcome to the forums!

Yes, read and start off slowly; I don't recommend jumping right into thousands of dollars worth of progressive/automated/fancy equipment. I recommend people start out with the basics and learn from there. For the really newbee, a lee loader is a good place to start; I loaded 2000 rounds on one when I was a teenager. At most start with a single station press and learn the basics. Either pistol or rifle to start; don't matter on that one. Actually, rifle is easiest to start with. Two die thing and all; no neck flaring involved.. Read more. Ask intelligent questions. Read and be careful about what you read on the net; including of what I just said.

Thank you, everyone. I understand the importance of reading as much as possible, going slow, taking time and being careful. I bought a Hornady Lock and Load AP press because i knew eventually id want something like that. Ive loaded about 50 .22-205 Remington cartridges with it so far but I use it like a single stage, loading one round at a time. I deprimed, tumbled, sized, measured, separated by manufacturer, primed, weighed powder charges one granule at a time and seated the bullets consistently with each other down to the hundredth of an inch. Probably as meticulous as possible. I know I'll make mistakes at first, Id rather catch them on the bench before the next stage than on the range... after I'm dead or missing a hand.

Mistakes and blowups are never made by new reloaders; they always happen to experienced guys who get complacent. Glad to see you got a Horandy; the best; and didn't fall the the blue press's hype.
Looks like you are already on your way and don't need any help.

Thanks dpcd. I guess i just wanted to start off in the right direction and avoid developing bad habits.

Concrete-rodeo: Eventually you will fall for the blue press (non) 'hype' and will own a Dillon press. In the meantime, do yourself a favor and buy a copy of 'Basic Handloading' by George Nonte. Although out of print, it can be found on Amazon. A great book for reloading newbies that covers rifle, pistol and shotgun reloading.

quote:

Originally posted by concrete-rodeo:
Thanks dpcd. I guess i just wanted to start off in the right direction and avoid developing bad habits.

You might want to let the membership know where your from might be some one in your area that could show you the ropes.

quote:

Originally posted by Shootshellz:
Concrete-rodeo: Eventually you will fall for the blue press (non) 'hype' and will own a Dillon press. In the meantime, do yourself a favor and buy a copy of 'Basic Handloading' by George Nonte. Although out of print, it can be found on Amazon. A great book for reloading newbies that covers rifle, pistol and shotgun reloading.

I went with the Hornady press over the Dillon because of the quick change bushings. I've been looking at Dillon stuff for more than 10 years even though I bought my first reloading stuff in August. I's sure I'll own a few Dillon products in the future... and RCBS... and Lyman... and Lee. Thank you for the recommendation on that book. I just ordered it and it should provide me with all sorts of knowledge.

quote:

Originally posted by p dog shooter:


You might want to let the membership know where your from might be some one in your area that could show you the ropes.

I thought about doing that but I'm not too computer savvy. I'm sure I'll figure it out one of these days. I'm FROM Northern California, specifically Tehama and Nevada Counties. I live in Los Angeles now. I felt it necessary to indicate that I'm not a Southern California native and I wouldn't be here by choice if not for my job sending me here.

If you were in Northern Wis in I would have you over

I would greatly recommend getting some case gauges. They are just cheap insurance, especially when dealing with the semi auto stuff. When reloading pistol ammo ( 30-30 also ) I would really advise that you get a separate crimping die. When dealing with a roll crimp or cannelure situation I can't recommend the Lee Factory Crimp enough. When you are switching around bullet weights and styles, you just set you setting die as you go from style to style; and then use the separate crimping die to top every thing off and the crimping die doesn't change its adjustment. It just makes life easier.
For rifle I would start out with the 223 or 308; there is just an embarrassment of information, powder, and bullet options. Loading 52gr 223, a little cross reference with the nosler, sierra, and hornady manual; and you will hone in on about three powders. Want to try 60gr, you'll find the same process will have you honing in on a couple of other powders, all really good for a 60gr in a 1-12 twist, etc.... The 308 is even easier, you could probably throw cigarette ash in the case and it would shoot good.

My opinion is that bottle neck cartridges are a bit more technical, involve more steps than straight walled. Starting with .38 spec. as mentioned would be a good place.

Put plenty of light over your bench and visualize the powder in the brass before placing the bullet. If you can't see the powder in a .38, consider starting with a .45 ACP. Squibs and double charged loads can be catastrophic.

Make sure you don't have any proud primers (sticking up out of the brass).

Get a copy of the SAAMI specs for the cartridge you are loading.

Only load with one powder at a time. I keep all but the one I'm using in my storage container.

I inspect 4 times during the reloading process.

I learned on a progressive press. Some say a single stage is easier.

Thanks for all the help, suggestions and recommendations.

Another handy hint: I keep a bore light at my reloading bench. When I have charged my cases with powder and they are in the loading block, I stand above the block and shine the bore light in each case. This way I can tell not only that each case has powder but that the powder columns in each block are the same height. Some fast-burning pistol powders don't take up much case space and the direct light source helps me prevent double charging.
Oh, and by the way, reloading is not a money saving hobby. Just a fact of life.

That light is a good idea. And I've long since known reloading won't save me any money. Oh well...

Another question for you guys, if you don't mind. I have been saving, scavenging and collecting brass since I was about 18 (I'm 32 now). I've got a lot of military 7.62x51, 7.62x39, 7.62x54R and 5.56 piled up. Most of them have crimped primers. What's the best way to remove the crimps? I've read about RCBS, Dillon and Lyman making a primer pocket swager. Is there a hand tool I can get for less bread that'll accomplish favorable results? At this point, I don't want to go fast. I think speed + inexperience/incompetence = mistakes. That's why I run my progressive turret press one like a single stage. I load one cartridge at a time, making sure I double check every step twice before moving on.

Concrete--Especially shooting pistols, I'd encourage you to take up bullet casting too. You can also shoot them in rifles. It is not rocket science as many try to make it to be. Most reloading manuals do not include cast bullet data, but Lyman manuals do. That's because Lyman does make bullet molds and other casting equipment. Speer, Hornady, Sierra, for example don't. You can't have too many manuals, and cross checking them is a good idea. You will often read about one powder or the other not metering well in a powder measure. Go to EBAY and find a Belding & Mull powder measure and I've yet to find a powder it wont handle. They look like cave man equipment, slower than other measures, but they are accurate (mine is only close to 50 years old, so I can't attest to durability). You looking for speed or accuracy?

quote:

Originally posted by concrete-rodeo:
Another question for you guys, if you don't mind. I have been saving, scavenging and collecting brass since I was about 18 (I'm 32 now). I've got a lot of military 7.62x51, 7.62x39, 7.62x54R and 5.56 piled up. Most of them have crimped primers. What's the best way to remove the crimps? I've read about RCBS, Dillon and Lyman making a primer pocket swager. Is there a hand tool I can get for less bread that'll accomplish favorable results? At this point, I don't want to go fast. I think speed + inexperience/incompetence = mistakes. That's why I run my progressive turret press one like a single stage. I load one cartridge at a time, making sure I double check every step twice before moving on.

I bought a Dillon primer pocket swagger. Mounted it to a length of 2x8 that I can clamp to a bench. They are a bit more expensive and only bought it because most of my stuff is Dillon. I have a 550B progressive and a Rock Chucker single stage. Both work well.

I really don't like military brass. You have to make sure they are Boxer primed, the brass itself is thicker and harder to size and in 7.62 or larger takes a lot of umph to size and harder to trim.

I've seen posts of ways to convert Berdan to Boxer but haven't tried it. I suppose if you have a bucket, it might be worth doing.

If you can get it for scrap brass price, it is worth fooling with.

There is also a lot of machine gun brass out there that is really hard to size.

Once the first reloads of military brass have been run, it is easier.

quote:

Originally posted by carpetman1:
Concrete--Especially shooting pistols, I'd encourage you to take up bullet casting too. You can also shoot them in rifles. It is not rocket science as many try to make it to be. Most reloading manuals do not include cast bullet data, but Lyman manuals do. That's because Lyman does make bullet molds and other casting equipment. Speer, Hornady, Sierra, for example don't. You can't have too many manuals, and cross checking them is a good idea. You will often read about one powder or the other not metering well in a powder measure. Go to EBAY and find a Belding & Mull powder measure and I've yet to find a powder it wont handle. They look like cave man equipment, slower than other measures, but they are accurate (mine is only close to 50 years old, so I can't attest to durability). You looking for speed or accuracy?

I've thought about casting my own bullets since I knew I'd be reloading one day. I have some lead shot I used to cast scuba diving weights and some wheel weights lying around, too. I was talking with a buddy a few days ago about casting lead and we wondered about using car batteries. Since then I've read that its not really a good idea given all the toxins and such.
I read my Speer manual most frequently and I refer to the others before doing anything.

Carpetman1-- as far as speed vs accuracy, I'm looking for accuracy now and hopefully speed will come later while still being accurate. I don't get to shoot as often as id like so its not like i need to resupply my caches overnight or anything.

quote:

Originally posted by deltam:

quote:

Originally posted by concrete-rodeo:
Another question for you guys, if you don't mind. I have been saving, scavenging and collecting brass since I was about 18 (I'm 32 now). I've got a lot of military 7.62x51, 7.62x39, 7.62x54R and 5.56 piled up. Most of them have crimped primers. What's the best way to remove the crimps? I've read about RCBS, Dillon and Lyman making a primer pocket swager. Is there a hand tool I can get for less bread that'll accomplish favorable results? At this point, I don't want to go fast. I think speed + inexperience/incompetence = mistakes. That's why I run my progressive turret press one like a single stage. I load one cartridge at a time, making sure I double check every step twice before moving on.

I bought a Dillon primer pocket swagger. Mounted it to a length of 2x8 that I can clamp to a bench. They are a bit more expensive and only bought it because most of my stuff is Dillon. I have a 550B progressive and a Rock Chucker single stage. Both work well.

I really don't like military brass. You have to make sure they are Boxer primed, the brass itself is thicker and harder to size and in 7.62 or larger takes a lot of umph to size and harder to trim.

I've seen posts of ways to convert Berdan to Boxer but haven't tried it. I suppose if you have a bucket, it might be worth doing.

If you can get it for scrap brass price, it is worth fooling with.

There is also a lot of machine gun brass out there that is really hard to size.

Once the first reloads of military brass have been run, it is easier.

I don't don't bother saving my brass if its not Boxer primed, and i don't think any of it is machine gun brass, as I've shot it all from my rifles or been with my buddies who shot it through their rifles (none of which are machine guns). I noticed some are hard to resize (a lot more so than the .22-250 cases I resized), but I ran some through the resizer again and they seemed to go smoothly. Hopefully they'll be easier from now on.

Concrete--You asked about using car battery lead. I don't consider it worth the effort. Wheel weights are the way to go and all you need. If you read the Lyman formula, you take 95% wheel weights (UNKNOWN COMPOSITION) and add exact to this and come out with an exact? Hmm. Want to make a blend, take free wheel weights (if you can find free ones) and mix 50-50 with wheel weights you didn't pay for and you have it.

I suggest that you start reloading with the rifle calibers, later on go to pistols, pistol powder is kinky!

Of the cartridges you listed I would recommend 223 first and 8mm a close second. 30-30 is actually harder to reload than rimless bottlenecks, plus you really should crimp the bullet for use in the 336 tubular magazine.

A golden rule for loading handgun cartridges is:

"NEVER charge an upright case!"

There is enough room in most pistol/revolver cases to double/triple/and even more charges. Once they are primed and ready for powder turn them upside down in the loading block. Only charge one that is upside down.

PA Bear Hunter, NRA Benefactor

Thank you for all your tips and advise. I've loaded about two dozen 223 rounds and resized a bunch of others. I received the book Basic Handloading and I continue to read and research a bunch. I only wish there was a range closer to home so I can see how good this stuff prints.

Something else you might want to add to your future purchase list is a chronograph. Mine has really added to my loading knowledge. I keep the fps and the gun that fired the bullets in my book of recipes.

I shot my first one. Since then, I put a target up behind the chrono so I'd have an aiming point. It was hard for me to aim at an empty space with a handgun at the recommended 10 ft. I also now have a stack of 2x10s in front of the electronic part. I use the infrared light source. Mine is set up in an old storage building beside our house, an advantage of living in the country.

I wouldn't want to borrow someone else chrono or loan mine to someone for fear of it getting shot.

From what I've heard, a range would let you set one up if they are not in a busy time.

Um, if you can't safely load an upright handgun case then I am the exception to the rule. I have loaded thousands of same on my progressive presses with nary a double or triple charge. Either purchase a powder check die or invest in a portable light you can mount on your press to check the powder level. And by the way, handgun reloading is no more tricky or difficult than rifle reloading. Actually, it is easier if you invest in carbide dies.

At the tender age of 14, I took my trapping money that winter, and bought a Rem 788 in .243, a box of factory ammo, some loading dies, bullets, and using my father's powder, primers, reloading press and scales, began reloading completely on my own.

I shot out the factory ammo to get the gun sighted in, saved the brass, and began working up loads using 3 rounds of each load to check for grouping at 100 yds. When I found the load that was under max load, that shot the smallest group, I was happy.

There really is nothing to it.. the concept is pretty straight forward, especially when using a good loading manual. Increase your loads carefully, find the most accurate powder amount, then start adjusting seating depth to find the sweet spot,...

and keep very good records of what you are doing.

Load development requires a lot of shooting, which can have the affect of additional practice, which can have the affect of making for a better marksman all around.

There is no down side!!

Don't overthink it... you don't need a chronograph... it's nice to have one, but it is not needed. My loads killed groundhogs just fine, even after learning they were shooting 200 fps slower than the book said they were...

If you start with the .38 special, you might like to know that you can reload both the .38 special and the .357 magnum with dies for the .38 special....but you can't reload .38 specials with dies for the .357 magnum. So get dies for the .38 special.....

Same goes for the .44 special and .44 magnum. Buy the shorter dies for the .44 special and you can reload both but not conversely....

The best advise you can get is find someone locally to help get you started.....

If I were just starting out reloading, knowing what I know now, my first "nice to have" item would be a chrony. It tells you a lot of good info and it opens up dimensions of reloading that nothing else will.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by deltam:
Something else you might want to add to your future purchase list is a chronograph. Mine has really added to my loading knowledge. I keep the fps and the gun that fired the bullets in my book of recipes.

I shot my first one. Since then, I put a target up behind the chrono so I'd have an aiming point. It was hard for me to aim at an empty space with a handgun at the recommended 10 ft. I also now have a stack of 2x10s in front of the electronic part. I use the infrared light source. Mine is set up in an old storage building beside our house, an advantage of living in the country.

I wouldn't want to borrow someone else chrono or loan mine to someone for fear of it getting shot.

From what I've heard, a range would let you set one up if they are not in a busy time.[/QUOTE

Thanks for the tips on how to prevent shooting a chronograph. Although I'd like to think it wouldn't happen to me, Murphy has a way of humbling me with his/her law. I keep pretty good records, I think, on stuff like case mfg, case length, case weight, bullet mfg, weight, length, seating depth, primer make and model number, powder charge, make and number. I'm hoping I'm not being too persnickety, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

quote:

Originally posted by concrete-rodeo:

Thanks for the tips on how to prevent shooting a chronograph. Although I'd like to think it wouldn't happen to me, Murphy has a way of humbling me with his/her law. I keep pretty good records, I think, on stuff like case mfg, case length, case weight, bullet mfg, weight, length, seating depth, primer make and model number, powder charge, make and number. I'm hoping I'm not being too persnickety, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

It seems you are keeping the same info as me. I don't record case length because I use the Lee case trimmer... it's always the same, no matter what, so it's one less variable in the process.

I have a space for cartridge OAL, Length to lands, and Seating Depth. When I am seating around the recommended OAL from the manual, I just record that. I do have some loads where I am seating "X" hundredths off the lands, but they are the exception, not the rule. Those are recorded in Length to Lands, and Seating Depth.

I respect Ray's answer, but to me, 38 Spl, and 45 ACP are two very easy rounds to load (seating depth for different 45 bullets sometimes is an experiment). Kinda hard to mess up a 38 Spl. I'd start there to practice and get down all the basics.

Mike

I reload .38 spc as well. Only issue, there is a lot of case for the required amount of powder and easy to double charge or even triple charge. With good lighting, it is pretty easy to avoid this.

The good part is there is a lot of data available for different powders in these recent years of powder shortages.

Another plus is that most are used in wheel guns or lever guns. A reloader doesn't have to load around cycling the action.

Be very careful with primers. Dont drop a box on the floor. Dont step on one with a hard soled boot, you may get an unpleasant surprise. Even worse is a gang-firing of primers in a hand held primer press. Could lose a hand easily with that. I have 3 hand presses, but I stopped using them since a friend had a primer explosion in his progressive lee 1000. Wrecked the press, blew out the overhead light, damaged his hearing. I only prime one at a time and use a bench mounted RCBS priming tool. But then I dont load large volumes, only use a single stage RCBS Rockchucker. With progressives, on full auto function, you dont have a choice, and accidents are very rare with the well designed presses like your Dillon. Some primers are less likely to gang fire because of their design. CCI and Remington come to mind. That said, my favorites are Federals but the I am loading them one at a time

quote:

Originally posted by mike_elmer:

quote:

Originally posted by concrete-rodeo:

Thanks for the tips on how to prevent shooting a chronograph. Although I'd like to think it wouldn't happen to me, Murphy has a way of humbling me with his/her law. I keep pretty good records, I think, on stuff like case mfg, case length, case weight, bullet mfg, weight, length, seating depth, primer make and model number, powder charge, make and number. I'm hoping I'm not being too persnickety, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

It seems you are keeping the same info as me. I don't record case length because I use the Lee case trimmer... it's always the same, no matter what, so it's one less variable in the process.

I have a space for cartridge OAL, Length to lands, and Seating Depth. When I am seating around the recommended OAL from the manual, I just record that. I do have some loads where I am seating "X" hundredths off the lands, but they are the exception, not the rule. Those are recorded in Length to Lands, and Seating Depth.

I've been researching different case trimmers because I know I need one to make proper reloads. Theres just so many different ones out there but they seem to do the same job. I'll check out the Lee. Thank you for the response.

quote:

Originally posted by deltam:
I reload .38 spc as well. Only issue, there is a lot of case for the required amount of powder and easy to double charge or even triple charge. With good lighting, it is pretty easy to avoid this.

The good part is there is a lot of data available for different powders in these recent years of powder shortages.

Another plus is that most are used in wheel guns or lever guns. A reloader doesn't have to load around cycling the action.

I believe the way I've been doing everything prevents me from overcharging cases, since I prime, charge and seat the bullet on one round at a time. As time goes on, I'm sure I'll reap the benefits of my progressive press, but for now, its one round at a time for me.