I want to throw this one out to you. I have a very nice .308 Norma Magnum on a Belgian Mauser. My problem is with my best loads using slow powder,and
plastic tip bullet types...the magazine box is too short, also the feed ramp bottom would need to be cut out some. I can't seat the bullets deeper due to the need for the case powder capacity...I CAN
get by with shorter, non plastic tipped bullets, but would rather use the Sirocco types, plus they will have a shorter jump to the rifling...
My question anyway, is if anyone has had any gunsmithing done for this problem,and what considerations to think about. The magazine box I can cut the front off, & lengthen OK. My main concern is cutting away the feed cone steel...don't know if there is a strength consideration here. I need about 1/4 inch more length & 1/4 inch cut away from the feed ramp cone metal. Comments, please.
Thanks, Tom

ps. I meant for this question to go into the
"Gunsmithing" forum..but got into the reloading section.

Use it as a single-shot.

Hi: I understand I can use the rifle as a single shot, that's no problem...but I want to use it
with a couple of rounds in the magazine as a bolt
action repeater like its meant to be.
Thanks,
Tom

i"m not a gunsmith, but it might be worth looking at recutting the chamber and setting the barrel back a fraction rather than tinkering with the mag and feed ramp. if the barrel can be set back and rechambered, that fixes your cartridge length problem and gives you a "new" throat as well.
i know you say you can"t reduce the length, but reducing the case capacity by seating the buller deeper might raise the chamber pressure enough that it does"nt matter about the 1 or 2 grains you might lose.
on the other hand i might be talking crap, but around here someone is bound to point it out!
good shooting.

Cutting in the feed ramp area will, I think, remove metal from the lock up area of the lower bolt lug. I don`t know if that`s a good idea. I would consider the idea of rechambering to that bullets spec or drop the OAL back to CIP standard.

"If the glove don't fit, you must aquit"

Let's say I wanted 2" more ground clearance on my Bronco. I could do the following:

Install 35" tires insted of 33". But then I would have to install a suspension lift kit because the 35's wouldn't have the clearance for turning.

After I installed the lift kit adn the tires, I would have to lower my step bars since they would be too high for my shorter lady friends.

I would also have to install fender flairs because the 35's would also be wider than the 33's.

I would then have the 2" of extra ground clearance. There are two problems. The on-road driving would be terrible, and what would I do if I needed 3" of extra clearance instead of 2"?

Follow what I am saying?

It is easier to take the Bronco into areas that I know it will handle. The same goes for your rifle. You can probably work it so that it fits your over-long cartridge, but every time you change one thing, you will also have to change something else.

I still suggest either you use it as a single shot rifle, or change your load.

Ol' Joe: You got the problem right...I'm concerned about just what you say...the strength there.
Mr. Ricciardelli: You are probably eminently correct...except the cartridges are not what I'd call overly long...its just that all the plastic tip types (as well as the Barnes copper alloy types) are longer than more dense, plain lead core bullets. And the older rifles don't allow enough clearance for the added length in the magazine, etc. However, the longer plastic ballistic tip or Accubond, Siroccos, etc have to be longer since the tip weighs hardly anything as you know so to get the weight (180 gr. lets say, the bullets are longer & need to be seated out further). I notice that when I have them seated out so they are fitted well & atop the powder charge...the longer length still has them chamber nicely, and less jump off the rifling than the deep seated ones...so the accuracy should be better too. (Haven't checked it in this miserable Winter Wyoming weather yet, but usually works that way. I suppose I should just pose the problem to a highly experienced gunsmith & have him evaluate it, and/or tinker with it. I just posed this here to see if others have had this type problem. I've also had too longish bullets of the Barnes type that are copper alloy...since they don't have the density of lead, are longer for their weight & also to reload in some magnum applications with bulky powder...are not suitable. Whereas the plain lead type bullets, shorter, work fine.
I don't use the Barnes X type bullets because of this...seating them deeper mostly doesn't work as you get too much powder compression.
Thanks for the input, gives me more to consider.
Best Regards, Tom

As long as you stay within the dimensions that other Mauser manufacutures have set for lengthening the cut out, you are fine. FN Supremes had the opening cut out to the front and into the feed ramp to make 357 H&H rifles for decades.

Likewise Zastava and the Whitworth/Interarms/Charles Daly/Remington 798 (all the same action made in the same plant for different importers). There are some un-informed who will argue to this day that it isn't safe but I lump them in with the folks who think motor cycle helments are more dangerous than no helment at all.

The little bit of extra space you need is probably far less that the factory cuts out for the 375. Just don't take it to a yo-yo without a lot of Mauser experience.

Tiggertate: Thanks for reply. I've had FN Supreme Mausers in the past, but never looked at them that closely. The rifle I have is a 1956 Sako...made by Sako using a Belgian FN Mauser action, their barrel & the rest of it. This was before Sako made their own actions...Sako told me they were called "Sako High Powers". A very well made rifle. And shoots very well! I understand from heresay (assume it may be true)...that the Belgian made Mausers were
about the best. Aloha, Tom

Hey Steve, As you know, I normally agree with all the good info you post, but I believe you made a simple Logic error on the tires. In order to gain 2" of additional height from a 33" tires, you would need 37" tires. Two of the extra inches are below the axle and 2" above.

quote:

Originally posted by bisonland:
...Comments, please. Thanks, Tom

Hey Tom, My post is based on "assuming" your current Load is:

1. Not showing any Pressure Indications.
2. You can get 7-10 reloads and still have snug Primer Pockets.

If that is the situation, read on, if not, ignore this post.

Since your case is relatively large, you "might" find it posible to get more of your current Powder into the case using both a very long Drop Tube and Swirling the Powder into a Funnel atop the Drop Tube. I made mine with an old Arrow Shaft coupled to an MTM Funnel Set.

Depending on how close to a SAFE MAX Load you are, you might be able to reach a SAFE MAX that way without having to spend money on monkeying with the rifle.

quote:

Originally posted by bisonland:
Tiggertate: Thanks for reply. I've had FN Supreme Mausers in the past, but never looked at them that closely. The rifle I have is a 1956 Sako...made by Sako using a Belgian FN Mauser action, their barrel & the rest of it. This was before Sako made their own actions...Sako told me they were called "Sako High Powers". A very well made rifle. And shoots very well! I understand from heresay (assume it may be true)...that the Belgian made Mausers were
about the best. Aloha, Tom

Those were FN actions sold on contract to SAKO. 'Supreme" is a grade designation. Most of the long magnum FNs were Supremes simply because the 375 H&H crowd generally bought higher grade rifles. Your "Belgian" FN/SAKO Mauser is indeed one of the better Mauser actions of its era.

I think FN (and later Zastava) open the front of the opening only because it saves money. If you open the front and rear you need to alter the ejector blade for correct ejection timing and build a new magazine box.

They sovled the problem by only opening the front. Then all you have to do is extend the front of an existing box like you mentioned and no modifaction to the ejector blade is required.

quote:

Hey Steve, As you know, I normally agree with all the good info you post, but I believe you made a simple Logic error on the tires. In order to gain 2" of additional height from a 33" tires, you would need 37" tires. Two of the extra inches are below the axle and 2" above.

Picky...picky...picky...

With some calibers, esp. .375 H&H the magazine box may set the overall length. It sure never seemed to hurt the accuracy of them. I'd use the bullets I wanted to use and adjust the powder charge for the shorter oAL before I'd go to making as new mag. box, etc. If it really bothered me I'd trade it off before I went through all that trouble.

tiggertate: Thanks for reply...your input is the
best so far on the subject..I checked my 1958 Weatherby "Southgate" with the Belgian Mauser FN
action (.300 Weatherby). It has less metal at the
lower feed cone that what I will have if I shave
the .308 Norma's..so it will load longer rounds.
Didn't think to check it until I got your feedback,
which was valuable to me. I owe you one, thanks again. The poster who suggested a drop tube, etc.
I've tried all the standard solutions...it just needs more room & doing just the magazine box
front lengthened doesn't make for complications.
Aloha, Tom