The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Reloading Flashhole Deburring- There has got to be a better way!Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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MY GOD, what a chore! Never really paid much attention to this procedure, but now I'm prepping new Winchester brass for an upcoming 7mm Remington Magnum, and am 15 rounds into a 50 pc bag. I'm using a RCBS tool, and it is slow going. Seems to take alot of effort to get a nice clean cut. Often, it seems that after making a few twists, I wind up leaving a worse burr than I started with. Anybody have an easier way, better tool, or just some good advice to make this go quicker with more satisfactory results? | ||
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this is the one I use. It seems to work great. Flash hole uniformer Back to the still. Spelling, I don't need no stinkin spelling The older I get, the better I was. | |||
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Remove the handle off the shaft and chuck it in a cordless drill. | |||
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I use the Lyman deburring tool and it works great, if you are talking deburring the inside of the flash hole. I use the Sinclair primer pocket cutter on a low speed drill for uniform primer pocket depth. We handloaders turned a wonderful hobby into a lot of hard work! Swift, Silent, & Friendly | |||
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Try testing those that are reamed against those that are not and you will throw the damn tool away and just skip that step.... Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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 Unless you remove them and at least lightly chamfer(create a lead) you will run the risk of bending or breaking primer knockout pins and I have.To make the initial deburring somewhat easier you may want to make a hammer actuated, pin piloted flaring tool. I made myself one many years ago and haven't had any problem because of it.I started with a 5/16" diameter shaft from a wornout screw driver. I also use it to remove primers once in a while. Ray is probably right if he is saying that it doesn't affect hunting accuracy he's the expert on that. I've got all the experience on bending and breaking pins.  rogerOld age is a high price to pay for maturity!!! Some never pay and some pay and never reap the reward. Wisdom comes with age! Sometimes age comes alone.. | |||
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Mr Atkinson makes a good point. I deburr the inside of the flash hole on my 223 and 260 cases, as those get used in my highpower target rifles. For my hunting calibers, I either don't bother or I buy Lapua brass (which doesn't need it anyway). | |||
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ABSOLUTELY!!!!! /////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill | |||
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Isn't NORMA brass supposed to be drilled and not punched so you don't have a burr on the inside? ____________________________________ There are those who would misteach us that to stick in a rut is consistency - and a virtue, and that to climb out of the rut is inconsistency - and a vice. - Mark Twain | Chinese Proverb: When someone shares something of value with you and you benefit from it, you have a moral obligation to share it with others. ___________________________________ | |||
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While Mr. Atkinson does make a good point, unfortunately, it does not help me. Norma brass is unavailable locally, and adding shipping costs to it's already high price($97 per hundred at Midway) makes it prohibitive for my needs. And Lapua does not make 7mm Remington magnum brass, as far as I am aware. And if they do, it too, is not available locally. Thanks for your insight. Super Bon Bon | |||
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Then just don't bother with it. | |||
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I use the RCBS tool...no problems...slip on the case twist twist twist...de-burred? I don't know if any of it matters or adds up to anything or not but I have found that if cut primer pockets, de-bur flash holes, trim all cases to length, use a micrometer in line seating die that most of my rilfes will shoot around 3/4 of an inch... and see all of the above is so important cause the longest shot I will take is about 250 yds and then only when I have a solid rest and can be prone...  Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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I agree... | |||
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The only place I have seen an improvement is with my .223 pushing 70 gr. bullets. It dropped my sd down a couple fps and seem a bit more accurate,,But notta lotta. On the .30 cal stuff,,its a waste of time and energy.which tells me that the only time there is a benefit to such an operation is when you're stuffing the case to max capacity.Have fun!Clay | |||
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Chaps. Just to say Norma brass is punched as well. l use .243 and find it also has a significant bur. l either debur or say sod it as each batch comes round. All the best. Dave. .... | |||
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try a lee case holder chucked in a drill or powerscrew driver and the rcbs tool. makes deburring flash holes almost painless. dave | |||
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Take a LEE decapping hand punch and use it to tap the burr flat. It will then cut out with the uniformer much easier. | |||
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I turned down the end of the tool and threaded it to 8 32 and screwed it into the fifth station on my RCBS trimmate. while I am deburring and chamfering case mouths I debur the flashole. Lyle "I would remind you that extremism in the defense of liberty is no vice. I would remind you also that moderation in the pursuit of justice is no virtue." Barry M Goldwater. | |||
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If your equipment is capable of minute of angle or better accuracy YES! It is a tolerable job on a cold snowy night. I like the Midway tool best.(Looks just like the one Bill Mc shows.) If 1 1/2" or 2" groups at fifty yards are your game then you'll never see the burr....... The chronograph might and for that, I probably deburr more than necessary. The factory ammunition doesn't do it...... I not sure that is an endorsement or not come to think of it! BigRx | |||
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I agree with YUMAN. Use the RCBS trim mate for that chore. | |||
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Here is a very good article by John Barsness on the usefulness (uselessness?) of such case prep operations: http://www.24hourcampfire.com/reloading_subpage.htm In a nutshell, the sentiment of Ray Atkinson is, in all likelihood, correct. RSY The real work of men was hunting meat. The invention of agriculture was a giant step in the wrong direction, leading to serfdom, cities, and empire. From a race of hunters, artists, warriors, and tamers of horses, we degraded ourselves to what we are now: clerks, functionaries, laborers, entertainers, processors of information. - Edward Abbey | |||
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I'll be damned if I understand why anyone would balk at spending 15 or 20 dollars for a tool or the 20 or 30 seconds per case for an operation that "might" improve the accuracy or the efficiency of their equipment. It just boggles my mind when it's such a minor expenditure of time and money. Jim 99% of the democrats give the rest a bad name. "O" = zero NRA life member | |||
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I've used Sinclair and Lyman tools for this and they are very easy to use but I now question whether it is really worth the effort. Has anyone actually found any measurable difference between cases so treated and those that have not? | |||
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I have been benchrest shooting for many years and will go to great lengths to find a little help. As Mr. Atkinson said- throw the tool away. I have done alot of experimenting with this for no improvement. If you mentally feel good about doing it, go ahead. Butch | |||
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I just got a bag of 375 RUM Rem brass the other day, and after shining a flashlight in them , surprisingly, there is no really noticible burr in my brass... | |||
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I also use the Sinclair and the Lyman tools. It's a pain in the old wazoo trying to get that tip into a lot of the pockets. Thank heavens it's a one time operation. I use Lapua and Norma brass whenever possible. The Europeans drill out the holes while we punch them out. This is what leaves the internal projection in the first place. If Norma or Lapua don't make brass in the calibers I'm working with I'll use Remington cases, but that's far from foolproof. Best wishes. Cal - Montreal Cal Sibley | |||
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 Hey super bon bon I am sure someone will send you a bunch of once shot 7MM just for the shipping cost. I just sent 200 to a man in Texas that way. I pick up a bunch of 7MM at a range and save them to trade. As far as using a deburring tool, I used one a few times, stopped and kept shooting 1/2' groups without worring with it. | |||
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Although I am not sure it will fit most rounds, CH4D has a flash hole tool for the 50BMG with an adjustable depth stop on the shaft. It is a handheld unit, albeit kinda expensive at $30. If I knew that it would fit, and my brass needed it, I would buy that one. | |||
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I use the RCBS tool chucked up in a cordless drill just like HP Shooter, cuts down on wrist fatigue | |||
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I use the Lyman Tool myself. I agree that this process is a slow pain in the ass. I'm selective on which cases I do this on. Lever guns and handguns, no. Scoped bolt guns, yes. I think one of the biggest problems with these tools are the fact that all they are is a small Center Drill mounted on some sort of extention with some type of moveable stop. The fact they are 2 flute cutting tools causes them to grab on really high burrs, that is AFTER you get the damn thing lined up and "in the hole", so to speak. I think if they produced these things with a much longer pilot, say .020 under the flash hole size, you could get it in the hole quicker and easier. Also, if they made it in a 4 or 6 flute instead of a 2 flute, the actual cutting would require less effort, and be smoother with less chance of chatter marks. But it's understandable that producing a tool like I just described would not be cost effective because there just isn't a large enough market for it..billt | |||
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cleaning or deburring? I use a min-lathe..and I love it. To clean the primer hole I chuck up the little hand cleaning tool and let it fly wide open..then just stick the shell over the tool. after that I toss it in with some walnut husks and whatever is left is polished away. The min-lathe is also fantastic for use with a length gauge/cutter. chuck it up..let it fly, then slide shells over the tool untill the cutter cleans up the length end. works fast and great. CheapGunParts.Com The ONLY on-line store to specialize in Ruger 10/22 upgrades! And home of the Yellow Jacket Bolt Buffer! | |||
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Couldn't you just run all your cases through a sizing die or a universal decapping die? The ones with a burr will have the burr knocked off or bent out of the way by the decapping pin. The ones that don't have a burr were fine to begin with and will be unaffected. H. C. (edit) Kind of like ireload already said: "Take a LEE decapping hand punch and use it to tap the burr flat. It will then cut out with the uniformer much easier" | |||
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Ditto. Just unscrew the RCBS shaft from the handle and chuck it in a drill. Low RPM . Be sure you are just removing burrs and not removing much metal at all from the bottom of the case . Setting the " stop " will take some experimentation . Also be sure all your brass is the same length, this tool indexes off the case mouth. Or just skip this step and use the time saved for loading more ammo. I have not proven to myself that this is at all magical with most loads. Travis F. | |||
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Put a little hair around it.  | |||
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