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neck vs. full length sizing
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Picture of Whipl@sh
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I am just getting back into reloading, after not doing any for 8-10 years or so, and i see a lot of topics on neck sizing vs. f/l sizing. my question is this - do you need special dies for neck-only sizing? [Confused]
I always did mine full length when i was reloading years ago, so i'm not sure what's involved in neck-only sizing.
[Smile] Thanks!
 
Posts: 8 | Location: NE Oklahoma | Registered: 30 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Whiplash, depends on what you're trying to accomplish. Absolutely nothing wrong with neck sizing in the right situations. Give us some more info and we'll try to help. How close are you to Coweta? sundog
 
Posts: 287 | Location: Koweta Mission, OK | Registered: 28 August 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of C. A. Plater
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quote:
sizing vs. f/l sizing. my question is this - do you need special dies for neck-only sizing?
It's not absolutly necessary to have a neck sizing die to do it. You can adjust a FL die so it doesn't set the shoulder back. If done properly, you'll have a slight step in the neck just where the shoulder meets the neck. You can also get a special neck sizing die that just sizes the neck. Right now I usualy only neck size one caliber, .308, as it is not appropriate for all types of actions. Lever, semi-auto and tip-up style action usually (but not always) need to have the case fully resized to function well. Bolt actions are well suited to neck sizing as they have greater camming power when chambering a round. You may notice that a neck sized round takes somewhat more effort to close the action. The benefits are that the case fits the chamber exactly and this is said to help accuracy. It also reduces the wear on the cartridge case allowing more loading. I have one batch of cases that have been loaded more than 20 times.
 
Posts: 181 | Location: Huntsville, Alabama | Registered: 21 July 2003Reply With Quote
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I am currently looking at reloading only a few calibers:
30-30 Winchester, 8MM Mauser, 45 ACP, 22-250, and 30-06. The 8mm I inherited when my stepfather passed away, and I have only recently started tinkering with it. Gunsmith said the headspace was good, and should shoot fine. I have already seen that ammo is expensive for it, and not that common, so that's why I'm looking into that one. The rest of them are just what my father and I have combined, and we don't shoot all that much. 30-30 is a lever action, so I've already seen from the other posts that f/l sizing is best for them. 30-06 is semi-auto, as is 45. 8MM and 22-250 are bolt. No more than we shoot, maybe full length would be best anyway.

Is that enough info. Sundog? [Wink] BTW, I'm in Skiatook.
 
Posts: 8 | Location: NE Oklahoma | Registered: 30 October 2003Reply With Quote
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For the lever gun and the '06 semi-auto, I'd consider getting RCBS X-die sets for both. The X die controls the growth of the cartridge case and save on lots of trimming. I use one on my own .30-30 for just that reason. For the .45, any good set of carbide dies will be great. Carbide eliminates the need to lubricate the cases but only works with strait wall cases. You'd probably get the most benefit with the .22-250 but there is nothing wrong with full length sizing. Although not my favorite brand Lee make economical 3 die sets that include a neck sizer die and you can tackle that later when you want to give it a try.

Good luck,
Courtney
 
Posts: 181 | Location: Huntsville, Alabama | Registered: 21 July 2003Reply With Quote
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Thanks Courtney,

BTW, is there any good reference material that you know of that shows the maximum case lengths for different cartridges? I have a Hornady handbook for reloading, and each cartridge is shown with dimensions, but I'm not sure if those dimensions are the maximum or not. My brass is shorter than the dimensions shown, so I can only assume that the lengths in the drawings is the max. allowed.
 
Posts: 8 | Location: NE Oklahoma | Registered: 30 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Whipl@sh, get another manual. Preferrably a Lyman book. It'll give you the trim to length, max and min case length and max OAL.
Cases for semi-auto rifles must be full length resized. You should not need a special die to neck size only, but you will only be able to use those cases in the rifle they were last fired in.
Semi-auto pistols like taper crimping to ease feeding.
 
Posts: 113 | Location: London, Ontario, Canada | Registered: 18 November 2002Reply With Quote
<Reloader66>
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Your 30-30 lever action rifle ammo should be FL sized for best function in that rifle. Always remeber when loading for any lever action rifle, you must keep your loads modest and not at maximum levels. The reason is you may stretch the action on the lever action rifle if you fire hot reloads. Lever action rifles just do not have the strength of a quality bolt action rifle does.
The rest of your rifles should give you better accuracy if you neck size only. Keep in mind when neck sizing you must use that relaoded ammo in the same rifle it was fired in. You should never neck size and think that reloaded ammo will work in another rifle chambered for that cartiridge.
In my view the best dies for neck sizing are the Lee Collet Dies in the yellow plastic container. They are less expensive and do a fantastic job. The Lee Collet dies squeeze the brass around a mandril and do not have an expander ball to resize the case neck to proper dimentions. The Lee Collet die keeps your case necks perfectly centered with almost no run out. Lee Collet dies also have a seater die with a floating head to seat your bullet dead center.
 
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I get more accurate reloads from neck sizing, much more concentric. I wouldn't recommend backing off on full length dies because of the lack of case support that makes your reloads more out of round. This doesn't mean you can't use full length dies to neck size. You can, but it certainly isn't the best solution. Ideally, the neck sizing Redding "S" bushing dies or Wilson neck sizing knock out dies are much better. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal
 
Posts: 1866 | Location: Montreal, Canada | Registered: 01 May 2003Reply With Quote
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I have done it both ways and finally decided to full length all my rifle stuff..I might want to go hunting and I might want to shoot in someone elses rifle...I have found that brass lasts just as long for all practical purposes with full length resizing in my rifles that don't have sloppy chambers..besides I toss the brass after about 8 loadings anyway and buy new brass...Like I said I hunt with most of my ammo and can't afford a failure...My DGRs are new or once fired cases only, the rest is regulated to shooting deer, plainsgame and practice..
 
Posts: 42210 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
<Reloader66>
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Been deer hunting for over 40 years with neck sized only brass and never any problem chambering any round while in the field. I find if you chamber every round your taking with you while out in the field hunting no worry exists. Very simple and easy to run every reloaded hunting round through your action before the hunt to be certain they work smoothly. In fact, I can feel no difference in bolt resistance when chamering my neck sized only brass to FL sized brass. If you like to fire your reloads at warp speed that may pose a problem with hard bolt closure in neck sized only brass. Pinpoint accuracy and smooth bolt operation in the field is paramount when hunting any game animal.
In my view the only time you must FL resize your hunting ammo is with lever action, slide action, or semi auto action hunting rifles.
 
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<Savage 99>
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Like Ray Atkinson I FL size all of my handloads. I just have too many rifles and too much to keep track of otherwise. FL sized ammo shoots just as well or better anyway.

Now if a person has a rifle with a really fine chamber and the rifle has great camming ability then neck sizing may work fine for that particular rifle. As pointed out above then the Lee Collet dies will do it and they don't require the necks to be lubricated either.

Just get a die set that FL sizes. Later if you get into the hobby more you can add stuff later.
 
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Picture of Whipl@sh
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Thanks for the information everyone. Seems that we all have differing opinions on how things should be done [Smile]

Anyone have a powder preference for reloading .45 ACP? I plan on using a 185 grain JHP. I've not reloaded this caliber before, and the powder I've used in other pistol cartridges is not shown in the charts for this one.

Thanks!
 
Posts: 8 | Location: NE Oklahoma | Registered: 30 October 2003Reply With Quote
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I like fast powders in the .45 ACP. Bullseye is the original powder for the cartridge and the standard. I've used lots of Unique in it (not a fast powder for the cartridge) and even Blue Dot for heavy loads, with good results but lots of unburned powder. I'm now using Scot Nitro 100 and Jeff Bartlett's #102 (wholesale equivalent of Accurate's #2 Improved.)
 
Posts: 424 | Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA | Registered: 28 September 2003Reply With Quote
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