I posted the same question over on the 24hourcampfire forum but I want to get as much info as I can.

I've been a shotgun shooter most my life and have probably reloaded 50-75K shotshells altogether. So, I know a little about reloading from that side.

Now, I'm getting hooked on rifle shooting. Specifically, I've got a Savage .243 and a CZ 22-250. Just started getting into it and I'm enjoying it immensley. That said, I want to reload my own rifle rounds.

I think I've gotten some of the basics ready but need some more equipment and advice before I really take off.

So far I have:

RCBS Rock Chuckar II reloading press. It's an older one that I bought used from a friend an its in pretty good shape.

I have full length Redding die sets in .243 and 22-250. I read in the Hornady manual that I might be better off with a neck sizing die. What has been your experience with that?

I have an RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure but no stand. Should I get one?

I've got Varget, Reloader 19 and IMR-4350 powders, CCI 200 LR and Win WLR primers and Hornady V-Max bullets in various weights. Haven't bought any 22-250 bullets yet though. Any suggestions?

I also have two dial calipers.

I was thinking I still needed the following:

- A Case trimmer
- Deburring tool
- Case lube kit
- Tumbler, media and seperator
- Hand priming tool
- Powder funnel

Anything I'm missing? Anything I should be looking at differently? Suggestions for makes/models of anything?

I've read the Hornady manual, two Lyman manuals and tons of different data online. That said, I'm still not 100% confident.

I appreciate any and all feedback and thank you for taking the time to respond.

We all had to start somewhere, and we were all pleased if somebody was willing to provide a leg-up in the beginning. This site is great for that.

I'll attempt to provide my best advise, mostly based on what I have found to work, less so in terms of what may be most economical.

quote:

Originally posted by SShooterZ:
I was thinking I still needed the following:

- A Case trimmer
- Deburring tool
- Case lube kit
- Tumbler, media and seperator
- Hand priming tool
- Powder funnel

Trimmer: Wilson provides the best, in particular if combined with the Sinclair micrometer adjustment option.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?catego...em=05-470&type=store

Rather expensive, though, in particular when combined with necessary shellholders etc. If too expensive, look into a Forster.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?catego...m=FCT1010&type=store

Deburring tool: I like the Lyman VLD deburrer (not sure this is still sold?), but you'll also need a regular deburring tool for outside deburring. Otherwise not such a big deal what you get.

Case Lube: if you load just a few cases, the easiest is to lube with Imperial. http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?catego...&item=IMP&type=store

If I load a bunch of cases, I find myself using Hornady's 1-Shot-Lube http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?catego...tem=H9991&type=store, and keep cases in an empty carton and spray directly into that. No need for a lube pad with any of these methods.

Hand Priming: The Lee AutoPrime http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?catego...m=PT90230&type=store is what you want. Buy two at a time, use one for large primers and the other for small primers. Should one tool fail (not unheard of), you'll have the other as spare until you can replace the faulty parts.

Powder funnels: the best I have found are the Sinclair caliber specific funnels. Drawback, you'll need one per caliber, and they work best for smaller calibers (funnels small). Otherwise, I have found metal funnels to work a bit better than plastic ones (less static electricity to make powder stick).

Tumbler: I have only used Lymans, and have been happy with their performance. Get a size larger than what you think you'll need. Get an RCBS MediaSeparator to separate media from cases, well worth the cost! Do not - under any circumstances - get the Lyman TuffNut (coloured red) media! It will drive you crazy with coloured cases and hands! Some people get cheap media from pet stores (walnut), that sounds like a good idea.

Have you already got 1, 2 or 3 loading blocks?? If not, you'll need those as well. I like the Sinclair case head specific blocks, but a generic block like Hornady's also works well. I like RCBS loading blocks less - too fiddly with the holes so close together, and not 5 cases in a row (for easy counting).

- mike

P.S. re-read your post, and it looks like you'll also need:

- a powder scale - RCBS makes some of the best: the 10/10 is a very good one, but it is also a tad expensive. Otherwie, an RCBS 5-0-5 is also a good scale, or a Hornady or Lyman scale - just get a beam scale, no need to go digital. Here is a set from Midouth with funnel and trickler (which you will also need): http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00005050020. The Hornady is a totally serviceable scale, and I still use mine after 20 years, or so...

Re: FL vs. neck sizing. Just stay with FL sizing for now. Learn how to set your dies up for "partial full length" sizing (use search function here), and you will be fine. Later, you can always experiment with neck sizing, but in that case you should look into Lee's Collet dies.

And yes, you will need a stand for your powder measure. I'm not sure one brand is better than the next. See where you want to place it, and figure out what shape would suit you best - raised or level.

In place of the case lube kit I'd far prefer to use a spray lube like Hornady's "one shot" and spray the cases while they stand up in a loading block...
spray from four directions and spray them 50-60 at a time.

I spray them from about a 30 degree angle so I get a small amount of spray in the neck ID as this greatly helps in the case neck passing thru the ball expander in the die.

A scale is a good thing, did I miss the fact that you have or are you going to get one, if so I recommend the RCBS 505 scale, its good.

/C

Great information so far... THANK YOU!!!

I forgot to mention, I do have 3 scales at the moment. An RCBS 5-0-2, 5-0-5 and an electronic Rangemaster-like model.

I will definitely switch directions on the case lube. That's great advice.

I saw a tumbler/seperator/combo from Frankford Arsenal. Those any good?

quote:

Originally posted by SShooterZ:

Anything I'm missing? Anything I should be looking at differently? Suggestions for makes/models of anything?

I've read the Hornady manual, two Lyman manuals and tons of different data online. That said, I'm still not 100% confident.

I appreciate any and all feedback and thank you for taking the time to respond.

In the 9 years that AR has been on the internet, yours is not the first time this same question has been asked. Try using the AR search function and get 9 years worth of opinions.

IMO the Lyman handbook best describes the step-by-step metallic reloading process. If, after comprehending TWO Lyman manuals, you still don't feel 100% confident, then maybe metallic cartridge handloading isn't for you. It's a lot more complicated that shotshells, but by no means daunting.

quote:

Originally posted by onefunzr2:
In the 9 years that AR has been on the internet, yours is not the first time this same question has been asked. Try using the AR search function and get 9 years worth of opinions.

IMO the Lyman handbook best describes the step-by-step metallic reloading process. If, after comprehending TWO Lyman manuals, you still don't feel 100% confident, then maybe metallic cartridge handloading isn't for you. It's a lot more complicated that shotshells, but by no means daunting.

I've done many searches and read several forums. The reason I asked is because different forums seem to have different "beliefs" as to how it should be done.

If you will also read my note about the Hornady manual mentioning neck sizing only, and then mho kindly gave me additional feedback regarding that, you'll see why I still have questions. Regardless of how many Lyman manuals I have read.

As an FYI, I moderate the reloading forum on Shotgunworld.com and we have new reloaders all the time asking repetitive questions. I can't remember one time I ever treated one with your attitude.

For everyone else, I truly thank you for taking the time to respond.

I especially appreciate the link to http://www.sinclairintl.com. Never knew that place existed.

Sinclair carries some of the best reloading gear around - they should, as they primarily cater to target shooters (BR, High Power etc). They also have great customer service.

However, it is always worth checking a few places for prices, and see what you can include into a shipment from one supplier.

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/ has a great selection and very good prices. Their service is probably not quite up to Sinclair's and they have minimum amounts for purchases.

http://www.lockstock.com/ has a very good selection - but slightly higher prices than Midsouth.

Then of course there is Midway, Grafs etc etc...

- mike

There is no equal in reloading for attention to detail. It is more important than anything.

I've gone digital on the scales and it saves a lot of time. Especially if you measure every charge or separate brass by weight.

SshooterZ: looks like you list is pretty complete to start, I would add a powder trickler, you'll really appreciate it, especially with the IMR 4350. Once the brass has been fired in your chamber, partial FL sizing may help you squeeze the last little bit of accuracy out, I also inside deburr flasholes for some calibers, cannot prove it actually helps accuracy, but it CAN'T hurt.

quote:

Originally posted by SShooterZ:
I appreciate any and all feedback and thank you for taking the time to respond.

In light of your recent response, your above quote must be the biggest crock of shit of all time!

I took the time to respond. Just because you're either too busy handholding newbies on Shotgunworld or too lazy to actually do a proper AR search isn't my problem. I wonder how folks got along without blowing themselves up, learning how to handload ammo before there was an internet or an AR???

quote:

The reason I asked is because different forums seem to have different "beliefs" as to how it should be done.

And what makes you think everyone on AR will be in lockstep answering your questions? I dare say there isn't one single question ever asked on AR that got a unanimous answer. Never. Different folks have different experiences and pass on their opinions. You didn't like mine, that's fine with me. I just calls 'em like I seez 'em.

I asked if I was missing anything?

You have no response other than to use the search function.

I asked if there was anything I should be looking at differently?

You have no response other than to use the search function.

I asked for suggestions for makes/models of anything?

You have no response other than to use the search function.

I say that I appreciate any and all feedback and thank you for taking the time to respond.

You respond that maybe metallic catridge handloading isn't for me.

onefunzr2 thank YOU for contributing NOTHING to my inquiry. Much appreciated.

Is that better?

The thing I haven't seen mentioned is the expander ball after either neck or FL sizing. Some folks use graphite to lubricate the neck when it is resized. You can strech the necks a bit if you are not careful.

I have switched to a carbide expander ball that redding sells so you don't have to do this.

Another way is to switch over to reddings system of neck sizing the exact dimesion you want with a bushing. You don't need to run an expander ball though then, but it is a bit more expensive.

I have one caliber I am starting to use this on.

Here's a handy list of what's necessary, and what's nice, but not necessary..

http://home.earthlink.net/~dannewberry/dannewberrysopti...development/id7.html

quote:

Originally posted by SShooterZ:

onefunzr2 thank YOU for contributing NOTHING to my inquiry. Much appreciated.

Is that better?

Much better. Thanks for appreciating my helpfulness.

"Where do you get off with this kind of pompous attitude. And then your explanation is even more self serving. You're a piece of work and one I prefer not to spend much more of my time interacting with. There are too many other good people out there to interact with where I might actually learn something and have a decent conversation with..." Written by SShooterZ on Mon Apr 02, 2007.

I see that I'm not the only one to have ruffled your feathers lately.

This IGNORE LIST function is great!

wrongtarget, great link, thank you.