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I used the wax for about 40 rounds of .270 WSM this week and liked it. But my new question is does it foul powder inside case mouths? ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | ||
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Ted I use a cotton bud (you call 'em Qtips I think) to put a slight (very slight) wipe inside the neck to help the expander ball move freely, and then use a short necked funnel to drop the powder. With this process I've never had any problems at all with powder fouling. Regards. Dave. .... | |||
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Ted, As some of the responses to your first thread pointed out, use powdered graphite to lube the necks. Then there's no worry about the wax contaminating your powder. BTW, I dip the neck in the powdered graphite and then go so far as to wipe the outside of the neck off before resizing so that I don't get a build-up of graphite inside my sizing die. You only need the graphite on the inside to help the case slide over the expander. | |||
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I use a q tip with wax before sizing, and use a dry q tip to get the residue out while wiping the wax off of the outside of the brass. Only adds a sec or two to the step. The stuff works so good the inside case neck really does not need that much at all, especially considering the expander ball collects some wax on it after a while. That wax is great, a little goes a long way for sure. | |||
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When applying the wax to the case(s) being sized I grasp the base of the case in my left hand, barely touch my right index finger to the wax in the Imperial tin, and then grasp the neck and shoulder of the case between that right index finger and right thumb and totate the case with the left hand. That waxes the OUTSIDE of the case(s) enough for my purposes. To wax the INSIDE of the necks, I place the open neck end of the case flat onto that waxed right index finger and give the case another quick rotation. Because the skin of the finger is flexible and backed by the soft pulp of flesh, that lets curve of the skin go a few thousands into the case neck...all that is needed, it turns out. Ghen after sizing the case(s), I use a dry Q-tip to remove any carbon and/or wax from inside the case necks. Each end of the Q-tip is good for about 5 or 6 cases. (It is surprising how much powder and goop is in there from ordinary firing.) So, it take about two Q-tips (4 "ends") per box of cases. Works well for me, YMMV. | |||
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I just run the brass through the vibratory cleaner for a couple of hours. It gets all the wax off. Then... trim, chamfer, prime, charge and seat. | |||
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Same here except I add one more step SHOOT  | |||
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I don't know about you guys, but I've found it necessary to add a couple of steps if I clean off case lube with a tumbler. I have to wash and dry the cases after they come out of the tumbler. Otherwise, I am putting cases with tumbling media abrasive on them into my rifle chambers, and afterwards into my dies. Residual abrasive can cause cases to stick in dies and in chambers of tightly chambered guns, and cause conderable wear in dies over time. Of course, if a guy reserves a tumbler especially for the purpose of removing wax (but NOT polishing cases), and uses tumbling media to which no abrasive has been added before or after purchase, that would work too..... | |||
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 So you have done a study on this or is this just your opinion what you think might happen. If my chamber and dies hardended steel will not stand up to fine to medium corn cob then the rockwell scale is total shit, and if they ware out i'll buy new ones life is to damn short dicking around with the little things. Your not worried about copper lead bullets going down your barrel,I think there harder then corn cob. | |||
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Your chamber is not hardened steel....it is butter soft. Your dies are however quite hard. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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If my chamber is butter soft which I can't crush between my fingers and I can corn cob media. Come on little common sense tells me corn cob dust is not going to scratch steel i'm sorry I have been in construction all my life and see what it takes to ware out tools and steel copper brass ect and it's not a damn corn cob, the rockwell scale still applies to all steel and last time I looked corn cob was not on it and neither is brass. | |||
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Corn cob is not measured on the rockwell scale but brass is...B scale (diferent weight stack up)with a round diamond. Butter soft is the phrase used by machinist (machinist/mold maker 23 years) when we talk about easily machined steel and rifle barrels cut like butter. I'm not a bit worried about the abrasive effects of corn cob media in a chamber or my dies I feel it is inconsequensial I was mearly stateing barrels are soft not hard. I'm sorry the thread got off topic I was just worried about wax. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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I’ve been using Imperial Wax for 6 months now, as a test. I don’t like it. It doesn’t cleanup easily. I would rather use the RCBS water-based case lube. If it’s “god’s gift to the resizing world†for you, than go for it. Imperial Grease is not a resizing miracle for me. After all,, we’re just resizing cases. | |||
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Well, as a matter of fact, I HAVE done a study on it. Not a voluntary one, but a study none-the-less. For years I loaded ammunition without polishing the cases in a tumbler. Never had any problems with stuck cases in my dies, or in my rifles. Then I bought my first case tumbler (I now have 6 of them). Soon afterwards, I noticed several things, two being: 1. I was starting to have the occasional brass case stick securely enough in the sizing die that the rim was pulled off and the case left in the die when I raised the handle on the press to remove the case from the die. 2. My cases were showing severe longitudinal scratches in them. So, not suspecting my case tumbler, I called RCBS to ask why my cases were now sometimes sticking in their dies. They asked me to send in some cases and dies. I did. RCBS called me and said the problem was simple....I needed to wash my cases thoroughly after tumbling them. Abrasive dust (used to activate most commercial tumbling media) was being carried by my cases into the dies. The dust was like gluing sandpaper to the outside of the cases in its effects, and was causing both the sticking AND the scratching of the brass. It had also scratched the inside of my dies, leaving tiny burrs inside. With those burrs, they said, the dies would scratch even brand new, chemically clean, cases. So, they repolished my dies and sent them back to me, no charge. Since then I have have been washing my cartridge cases after tumbling them, and have had no more problems of that ilk. Now, if you had read my post carefully, you would have noted I did not say anything about your corncob media scratching or sticking anything. I pointedly mentioned that unactivated media used in its own tumbler would NOT do that and was an option. The part about "in its own tumbler" is to keep abrasive dust from activated tumbling media fron contaminating the clean, unactivated media. I assume you are aware that the cleaning media generally sold on the market as ready to use for polishing cases does have an abrasive added to it, to make it work in a reasonable period of time. Likewise, the "rejuvenating" additives sold by such folk as Dillon, Midway, etc., for improving the performace of "tired" media consist of abrasives in a liquid carrier. Adding them to media can therefore end up creating the same problem of needing to wash the brass after polishing it. Unactivated media is also available, but it takes many times longer to polish dirty brass, so is not as common in many locales. Anyway, the last thing RCBS cautioned me about in this respect was to also not use unwashed cases (after tumbling) in my rifle chambers either, as the dust could either scratch the inside of the chamber, or be blown back in the "gook" created by firing the rile and end up on the backs of locking lugs. Grit on the back of locking lugs or in chambers is not a good thing, I would think you would agree. It is one of the reasons locking lug recess cleaning tools and chamber cleaning tools are sold. Lastly...it does not matter how hard the steel in dies or chambers are. Most effective industrial abrasives are harder than dies, chambers, or locking lugs. Believe it or don't. Your guns, your beliefs, your life. | |||
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Alberta Canuck Your copy and paste is from the wrong guy this above spill is not my quote!!!!!but that of hunt-ducks I think. Look and double check me if you will. ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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I don't lube the inside of case necks at all. Instead I use a hardend expander ball. No probs so far. | |||
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Yep. me too. Remember, forgivness is easier to get than permission. | |||
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I like the imperial wax. I just started using it a couple months ago. As far as tumbling etc., I just take a little odorless thinner on a rag and wipe each round off when I'm done. with pistol cases I don't wax or lube them. I just throw them in a pillow case and shake them around a bit and they're fine. | |||
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Not to get off subject, guys, but years ago I read about an outfit that recycled corncobs for commercial purposes. They are harder on grinding equipment than rocks. I'm with hunt-ducks, tho. Just buy new ones if necessary, they won't break the bank. | |||
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Ted- I checked. You are right. When I did the quote thing in my last post, I used your post which quoted Hunt Ducks, but ended up attributing it to you instead of him. Sorry about that. I apologize for my error of attribution. I am correcting the post. One of the things I should probably add here, is that the abrasive material used in activated tumbling media (either corn or walnut shell media), can cause cases to stick in dies even though the cases end up being fired in the rifle chamber before they next go back nto the dies. Some 40-to-60 thousand pounds of pressure squezzing the case walls against the chamber walls, with the media dust trapped in between, can imbed the dust in the outer side of the brass, turning the cartridge cases into a very low grade sort of "emery board". Much of the time, the operator won't even notice anything when sizing well-lubed cases, but if the cases aren't well enough lubed problems can occur which would not happen if the dust is removed after the cases are taken out of the tumbler. If enough media dust is imbeded in the cases, dies will be scratched, and so will any following cases. My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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