Hey milanuk, If you happen to have any young`uns running around the house, make sure "they" don't touch the cleaned Bullets while you are doing something else. You are absolutely correct to keep your hands totally off the Bullets after the Dawn washing and rinsing.



I have "Plated Daisy BBs" in with my Moly and Bullets to do the "peening". They are a bit of an aggravation when you go to separate the Bullets from the BBs, but not too bad.



If your vibrational area inside the jar is too small, you may not be getting quite enough "impact". Try a slightly smaller amount of Bullets and that might fix it without adding the BBs. And lay the jar on it's side.



When I Moly Coat, I use an old Vibrator Bowl(instead of bottles) and mix 35cal, 7mm and 22cal Bullets in with the BBs. Or it might be 6mm, 30cal and 0.429" Bullets and the BBs. The variation in sizes seems to get a good flowing "wave" inside the Bowl during the peening.



Other than that, it looks like you are on the right track.



...



When you get the measling or spotting figured out, take the time to run the Moly Coated Bullets through some Corn Cob that has been treated with "Carnuba" car wax for no more than 60 seconds. I use Liquid Kit Car Wax, but any of them with high Carnuba "should" do fine.



Put the wax in the cob and let it vibrate for 30-45min and then feel the cob. If it "feels" waxy, you are ready to go. If it is lumpy, it needs to vibrate longer. If it is not lumpy and does not feel waxy, you need to add more wax and repeat.



The wax seals the Moly Coating, makes them look good and allows you to handle them without getting the Moly on your hands. If your collander has holes the correct size, it is easy to separate the waxed Bullets from the cob.



Good luck to you.

I have been using the Mid Way kit for over a year out a problem. After I wash and rinse the bullets a couple of time I do a final rinse in very hot water and leave the bullets in the colander, which by the way is plastic.
I shake out access water over the next several hours and finally molly coat them. I usually let it run for 4 to 5 hours, checking to make sure they are getting coated all over.
I have not added BB's to them.

My method for moly coating has never failed to produce complete moly coverage. I use Lyman moly powder, immerse bullets in rubbing alcohol, allow bullets to air dry on a clean paper towel, put 20 to 30 bullets and a pinch of moly powder in a clean plastic 35mm film cannister bottle. Wrap the film bottle with rubber bands to keep the lid on. Put the bottle in my pant pocket and go for a vigorous hour long walk. (This keeps me in shape for hunting as well as coats the bullets.) Pull the bullets from the film cannister and onto a clean paper towel in a circular rimmed pan. "Pan" the bullets like I was mining for gold dust around on a clean paper towel to remove excess moly. (After this step there is not much Moly transfer from the bullets.)

I never touch the bullets with my fingers, but use tweezers degreased in alcohol to handle the bullets at all stages. If there is not powder left in the film cannister after you remove the Moly coated bullets, then you have not added enough Moly. There should be ample room in the cannister for the bullets to move around and impact plate themselves.

regards,

rollinghills

Anytime I get lumpy or speckled bullets there is oil contamination from some source. I wash the bullets much as you do, but finish up with a rinse of cheap rubbing alcohol. Then I put them in a pan and put them in the oven, or on top of the stove to get very warm and dry completely. That may cure your problem. If not wash the inside of the tumbling container just as you do the bullets. Any source of oil will make the bullets speckled or lumpy.

I had one batch of sierra hollowpoints that had a good bit of oil in the hollowpoint itself. It took a while to get them looking good.

The lumps or speckles are cosmetic only IMO; I don't think they affect the performance of the bullets. It takes a lot more moly if you getting lumps. If they bother you too bad you can tumble them in corncob till the moly is gone then start over. Don't use walnut hulls, or a container that has used walnut hulls. There is enough oil in the walnut to speckle the bullets. It took me a while to figure that out!

Waxing the bullets makes them look better and seals the surface. It's a nice added touch.

Good Luck!

John

I have used the KG moly pill tumbling kit www.kgcoatings.com bought mine at www.precisionreloading.com at a better price. Just click under catalog, and then under manufactures kg gun care. Has it own little containers to do more that 1 cal. at a time, and does not mess up the inside of youre tumbler bowls.

Having thoroughly clean bullets free of oil or any other contamination to begin with is the most important step. I simply toss the clean bullets in a large vitamin bottle with plated BBs and a little moly. I don't measure the moly, but there is plenty in the container. An hour or so in the tumbler is all it normally takes. I separate my bullets from the vitamin bottle through a slotted serving ladle I stole from the wife (she only had about 8 of them lying around). The plated BBs and remaining moly are funnelled back into the vitamin bottle. I have another small tumbler bowl that is about 1/3 full of walnut medium, with some plated BBs and a little moly. The bullets are tossed into that small tumbler bowl for a few minutes. This removes the excess moly powder, but still leaves the bullets thoroughly coated. When excess moly from my bullets accumulates enough in the small tumbler bowl, I can just moly coat bullets in that. It takes about twice as long, but works just fine.

After I seat moly coated bullets, I wipe the bullets firmly with a shop towel to remove any moly that would otherwise wind up on my hands from handling the loaded cartridges. Very little comes off and onto the rag, and the bullets have a polished look. They are pretty safe to touch after that. Then I pick up my Sharpie and write my load info on the side of the case. By the time I put the loaded cartridge in the box, the electronic dispenser and scales are finished with another powder charge. Next case...

I don't use wax at all. I want moly contacting the bore, not wax.

I have a rock tumbler that I got from Toys R Us -- it was made as a toy for older children to do rock and jewelry polishing, and it cost about $40. I use it only for moly coating. After cleaning the bullets in very hot water and dish detergent, and then washing them with very hot water and drying them on paper towels, I put the bullets -- usually a box of 100 -- in the bowl of the tumbler. I then fill it with steel BBs, and put about 1/4 teaspoon of Midway's moly powder in it. I then put it in the tumbler and let it run for about 45 minutes. After that I dump the bullets + BB mixture into a bowl and fish the bullets out with a spoon and put them back in their original box. I then put the BBs in a jar for the next time.



I've never had the bullets come out with lumpy moly coating using this method.



I've been told that I should also use a step with carnuba wax, but I haven't done so. It doesn't seem to me to be needed.

Thanks for the information, fellows. I will try some BB's in there next time. Still not sure where the lumpiness was coming from... I degreased the heck out of those little mayo jars, and ditto for the bullets. About the only thing I can think of is maybe one or the other wasn't as dry as they should have been. I think next time I'll try putting them in a pan in the oven for a bit to be sure.

Thanks again,

Monte

For bullets not available in moly, like Vmax 257, I have bullets shipped to Russ Hayden, and he coats them for 2 cents each.

Russ Hayden home page

You probably just got a bit of water inside some of the hollow points. Having been through the mess of moly in high power competition I'll give you my summary'"Moly does nothing for a good barrel and can't do anything for a bad one"