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PFL 7-08 with Redding Die?
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Looking to try a redding set of dies for my new 7-08. Redding e-mailed me that the 7-08 might not have enough shoulder to partial full length resize? I PFL my 35whelan, 358, 308, 25-06, 7mag, 280, so has anyone had problems with the 7-08?
 
Posts: 392 | Location: Western Massachusetts | Registered: 05 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Westernmassman:
Redding e-mailed me that the 7-08 might not have enough shoulder to partial full length resize?


This is a difficult argument to understand?? PFL sizing is nothing more than FL sizing with a sizing die adjustment to match your individual chamber - as opposed to adjusting the die according to standard ("one size fits all") adjustment instructions.

With PFL you strive to achieve the least sizing that will, 1) ensure feeding with a minimal of resistance, 2) shoulder setback minimal from fired brass (if you quantify the shoulder setback with a gauge, .001" -.002" is what you are looking for).

There is absolutely no reason why this should not be possible with a 7mm-08 case - the headspace gauges typically used to quantify shoulder set-back will measure on the same location (datum line) on a 7mm-08 case as they do for a .308 Win case, say.

Buy your Redding dies, if they are what take your fancy, and proceed to adjust them correctly for PFL.

- mike


*********************
The rifle is a noble weapon... It entices its bearer into primeval forests, into mountains and deserts untenanted by man. - Horace Kephart
 
Posts: 6653 | Location: Switzerland | Registered: 11 March 2002Reply With Quote
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From our Friend Hot Core.

Full Length Resize(P-FLR).

1. Put the Shell Holder in the press and raise the ram.

2. Screw the Full Length(FL) Die into the press so it is about a "nickle's thickness" above the Shell Holder.

3. Lube a "Fired" case (walls and inside the neck) and squash it.

4. Remove the Lube and try closing the bolt on it in the chamber.

5. If the bolt closes with no resistance, screw the FL Die into the press about 1/8-1/4 turn and repeat steps 3 & 4.

6. As you feel the resistance begin, slow down how much you screw the FL Die into the press so you are at about 1/16 of a turn, or "Fine Tuning". At some point you will not be able to close the bolt and you are extremely close to having the FL Die in the proper position.

NOTE: The reason for this is because the FL Die has begun Resizing the Case-walls down to the Pressure Ring. As it does so, the Case-body lengthens slightly which in turn moves the Case-shoulder slightly forward. Then as the "Fine Tuning" continues the Case-shoulder makes contact with the FL Die and is moved slightly reward(or slightly shortens the Case-head to Case-shoulder dimension).

7. Stop when there is a slight bit of resistance when closing the bolt on the empty case. You now have a "slight crush fit" for the case in that specific chamber, or Zero Headspace.

8. Once you get it where you want it, take some masking tape or a black marker and put a Witness Mark where the FL Die Lock Ring is positioned to hold the FL Die in this position. Loosen the FL Die and return the Lock Ring to align with the Witness Mark and sung up the Set-Screw.

Screw the FL Die back into the press and try squashing another case. It should have the same resistance as the previous one. If not, you need to re-adjust the Lock Ring so it does. But you are extremely close to where you want it, so make very small changes at this point.

Occasionally check the fit of the cases in the chamber, say every 5th firing just to make sure nothing has slipped. Checking more often won't hurt anything and give you confidence that the Set-Up is still proper.

You have now Set-Up the FL Die to P-FLR and will have the very best opportunity at having long case life and the very best accuracy possible.

If you are hunting in Dangerous Game country, you should forget P-FLRing or Neck Sizing, and always Full Length Resize so the case chambers and extracts easily.

Best of luck to
 
Posts: 1205 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 07 February 2004Reply With Quote
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