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Industrial Strength Trimming
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Picture of Nitroman
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Things I learned when converting .30�06 cases to 8x60S cases.

1.) Polish the pilot �till it looks chrome plated.
2.) Get a can of Lectra-Clean (CRC brand) from the hardware store. This really helps in cleaning the cases. It has trichloroethylene as the active ingredient. If you can find it in the back shelf in an old hardware store, a can of methylene chloride is by far better. Put the can in the refrigerator (more on this later).
3.) Get thread cutting oil.

After receiving 100 Remington .30�06 Springfield cases, I inspected them and found none to cull. This is unusual since it has been my experience Remington has poor quality control.

I set up my Acme Number 1 Electric Case Spinner next to the sink and with my Bernzo-Matic torch, annealed all 100 cases in about 30 minutes.
I then lubed the cases with Imperial Sizing Die Wax and ran them into the Hornady 8x60S full length sizer, not much effort was required due to the anneal and this isn�t a radical change to the case.

After washing and drying it was time to trim.

Normally trimming isn�t labor intensive, but when trimming 0.1315� (3.34mm) from a case it becomes a hassle. Thankfully this only needs to be done once.

Here is where difficulties cropped up:
1.) It takes too long manually.
2.) The cutter makes four low-spots and four high spots on the face of the cut on the mouth, to the point the cutter will dig in and rotate the case. No amount of finesse on my part could prevent this.
3.) The pilot was wearing a flat spot on the inside of the neck.

The RCBS Manual Trimmer II I own is not in alignment between the cutter shaft and the assembly that holds the case. Looking at the case mouth from the crank end of the machine, the pilot hits the mouth of the case at about the 11 o�clock position and is about 0.030� off. I disassembled the machine, cleaned all the parts and reassembled. No improvement. I checked for burrs in the cradles and even put some grease on them, no improvement.

I called RCBS and described the problem, stating the pilot engages the rim of the mouth of the case rather than going into the mouth. The individual I spoke to told me the cradles for the shaft and case holder are cut with one tool, but with getting everything else together, they are always out of alignment. He told me not to worry though since the pilot takes care of this problem.

Ok, here is the problem as I explained it to this fellow. The pilot wears a flat on the inside of the case neck since I am trimming 0.1315� from the case. At my statement everything broke down. He could not comprehend, �flat spot�, nor could he understand why I would want to trim that much from the case. It did not matter when I told him I was converting from .30�06 to 8x60mm; his brain had gone into a loop or something. I hung up after realizing I would get nowhere.

I had to fix the alignment as best I could. I used tin foil from the kitchen and cut several small squares (with my wife�s best material scissors). I put these under the case holder assembly at the 5 o�clock position and retightened the bolt holding it all together. Voila! It was not perfect but much, much better than it had been.

I mounted the Trimmer on a piece of 2x6 about 24� long so there was enough room for the handle on the left to clear a wall (more on that later). I removed the crank handle on the cutter shaft and used a �� drill motor to drive the shaft. I think this runs at 800 rpm but it has the variable speed option and I ran it about 200-250 rpm.

I made a tray from tin foil and fitted this under the cutter area of the Trimmer to catch oil and chips (we must maintain domestic bliss).

I used Master Mechanic brand thread cutting oil to splash on the pilot every case. I lubed up the cutter shaft with a mix of Amsoil ATF, kerosene and lanolin (Ed�s Red without the acetone and turpentine).
The cutting oil helped greatly in keeping the cutter cool and preventing wear on the case neck from the pilot. The cutting went much faster than without oil.
Liberally lubing the cutter shaft every 15 cases or so is a good idea since I found the shaft would heat up quite a bit.

I chucked the drill motor onto the shaft and proceeded to spend a boring hour and one-half (with a coffee break) trimming back these cases. I would chuck the case into the holder, splash some cutting oil on the pilot, and then pull the drill motor to the left. The board the Trimmer is mounted on was butted up against a wall. I was sitting in front of the Trimmer. At least now I have what is necessary in mind.

I should point out this Trimmer isn�t designed for power operation. RCBS does have a trimmer set up for this but it will cost you two C-notes and I seriously doubt it will be quicker than using a 1 horsepower drill motor. Remember to douche the cutter drive shaft with lube to keep it cool and prevent wear. Turning at 250 rpm while a 200 pound guy is forcing the drill motor from right to left is going to put some lateral force on the shaft and the oil will prevent wear.

Clean up time. I had the cases in a large coffee can with a soft plastic lid. I put the can of Lectra-Clean in the refrigerator to lessen the vaporization of the trichloroethylene when I sprayed it into the coffee can. I peeled up the plastic cover on a Folgers can and sprayed for a five count. Agitate like a cement mixer for a minute or so. Add another five-count squirt. Agitate for another minute and then go do something. After an hour I shook the can and spilled the contents into an old colander and shook that around to get all the liquid to evaporate. I did this one more time and the cases are all nice and de-oiled.
Note: the above step needs to be done outside, preferably in a strong breeze.
Now all I have to do is chamfer inside-and-out, ream the primer pockets and de-burr the flash holes, then I can load up!!

So there it is, I thought this might help if someone ends up having to do some industrial strength trimming.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Here is the set up that I use for major trimming, probably not bench rest accuracy but works very well when it is clamped to my drill press and everything is square and lined up. Have you ever tryed using coke cans for shims, works great on somethings, I have used them when I spun the bearing in the rear axel of my car, cut to fit around the bearing and drove it in, lasted for 3 years before I sold it. [Smile]
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Posts: 880 | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Forester makes a drill press base which works great. I used to turn surplus .223 cases into .222 cases and '06 cases into 7x57's with no problems. I have also made a spindle that screws onto the shaft of their manual trimmer that allows me to use my 3/8 cordless drill for power trimming. I usually do this kind of trimming as a 2-part operation using power to get the case to within .005 or so and then hand trim the final amount.
Hope this helps.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 238 | Location: Colorado | Registered: 05 June 2001Reply With Quote
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Roger, since you obviously have a bone to pick with Remington, why did you order their cases? Every provider of brass offers 30-05 brass. Why not use another brand? If they were given to you, its sorta poor manners to take them and then bad mouth them. [Big Grin]
 
Posts: 2037 | Location: frametown west virginia usa | Registered: 14 October 2001Reply With Quote
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Thanks for those pix, I will have to make one of those set-ups.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Recently, I reformed some cases from WSM to SAUM, and that too, took a lot of trimming. My solution was to use a LEE trimmer and a hand drill. It may not be as high-tech, but I'll put it up against any other setup for speed and ease of use. If you use a drill press, there is no need to use the shell holder, just let the pin on the cutter pilot bottom on the drill press table.>>>>>Bug.
 
Posts: 353 | Location: East Texas | Registered: 22 January 2003Reply With Quote
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