I am interested in the powder selection process. As a beginner, my selection of H380 was far from scientific. My decision to use it was based on it's history of performance and ease of use.

However, I have read that you should select powder base on burn rate, the slower the better.

Can someone expand on this topic?

Thanks,

Art

I just look in the reloading manual and find the powder that provides the highest velocity and start working up loads.
Usually I can get good enough accuracy with those powders.
However for all my big game calibers I have settled on H4831sc exclusively through trial and error. I like to keep it simple.

First - you do have at least one reloading manual correct?

Second - what caliber are we dealing with?

Third - What bullet are you using, type and weight?

Fourth - do you see a pattern here, as related to LE270's post?

In order for anyone to help you, you'll have to share with us just what you do understand about reloading. Being new is nothing to be ashamed of, not giving all the details may get you in a heap of trouble on the internet.

I start my load development process with the powder that gives the fastest velocity. Key word there is "start", that powder may not give me what I'm looking for, so I'll move to the next fastest, and so on.

My question of powder selection was more of a general process that would be used whenever you begin to workup a new load for a new rifle / caliber.

As to the specifics of my first reloading attempt,
I am loading for my CZ-550 bolt action in .22-250. I am using new R-P brass, Sierra MK - 52gr. HPBT, H380 and CCI Magnum primers.

I haved loaded and tested my first loads with good success,(see my earlier post, "My First Reloads")and am now trying out Dan Newberry's OCW process.

As I mentioned, I selected H380 based on it's history as a good .22-250 powder and the recommendations of a lot of people on the forum. I did verify it was recommended in my Speer 13 manual, but noticed it did not give the highest velocity. So with this said, my question is, what process do you use to initial select a powder for a new caliber load? Do you just go to the manuals and select the powder that gives the highest velocity for your caliber / weight combination and work from there or is there a more scientific approach?

Art

What I do is decide exactly what I'll be using that particular cartridge for. Based on that I decide on a bullet. Based on the bullet selected I research all the loading manuals to find the powder that has given the highest velocity or near to it, at the lowest pressure. This has worked for me.

Personally I'd stick with the regular Large Rifle primers instead of the magnums, but as long as you are mighty careful and watch for pressure signs as you get within a grain or two of max it should be ok. I've used magnum primers in regular cartridges before and sometimes it gives me what I want, but its a last resort, for me anyway. If you want a more consistant ignition you might consider a match grade primer instead. It may not be any problem at all. Some of the other guys will probably have some good advice on this as well.

I like to pick powders that are efficient. Usually that is the one that I can get decent accuracy with, at a mid range of volume ( 30 grains vs 40 grains, etc.).

The more powder used, I believe personally contributes to faster barrel wear via throat erosion. To see this, place an old white tshirt or sheet in front on your muzzle, and shoot thru the white cloth. Look to see how much powder particles are on the white cloth. It really surprised me.

Since you mention 22/250, as an example, I have started using RL 7 for the 40 grain bullets. It gave a lot of velocity and accuracy to boot. Much better than the H 380 gave me ( and I am a big H 380 fan in other calibers). I started loading the RL 7 in the bullet weights up to 63 grains. Although I load up bullets to max velocity at times to test the parameters of what my rifle will do, I stick to mid range velocities unless that particular rifle likes max velocity. Case in point, I have a Remington 243 that shoots 3 to 4 inch groups with any thing down the barrel. However, 50 grains of H 380 and a 60 grain Sierra HP and this rifle shoots one hole groups at 100 yds.

Instead of trying to figure it out, that is that particular rifles diet as long as I own it. Velocity is right over 4,000 fps in a 22 inch barrel.

Good luck with it all.

TEE. Trial, Error and Experience.

A given powder and charge, such as the H380, may be just the ticket for a specific bullet you're using, but not for the same bullet weight and style from another manufacturer. Changing almost any variable will change performance to some extent but living up here at 6500 feet, I worry mostly about temperature changes and load up accordingly. If the temps are moderate and not expected to change much, I'll use spherical powders (H335, H380 or BLC(2)) if I can. If it's hot or I expect temps to change 15 or 20 degrees, I'll use extruded, like Varget or H4895. Keep your velocities mid-range until you gain more experience. I rarely throw charges. I prefer to weigh out each one on a digital scale though that may not be your cup of tea. It's "tedious". -Rod-

You might try a book "Ken Waters' Pet Loads" from Wolfe publishing. He covers a pile of cartriges and give thoughts on which powders worked best for him and also has notes on most accurate load... Some of the data might be a bit outdated, but I always look in it when I start on a new cartrige. It has lead me on a short path to success many times.
Even the new Nosler manual has an * denoteing most accurate load tested. It does list H380 as the most accurate powder tested for 50, 55 and 60gn bullets. I like havening a shelf full of powder options to try. If the one powder works most of the time, then why not start there if it's appropriate.
I was a win296 fan for years in my revolvers, but then heard about surplus WC820. Now my 296 is gathering dust, I can't get enough of the WC820. I wouldn't suggest going with a surplus powder until you get more loading time in.
Alot of times I feel the need to see just what it will do for max velocity, but you have to know you can go too far!!! I try to stop at the most accurate load as long as the velocity is acceptable.

I usually start with picking the bullet weight that I want to shoot. Following that, I check the books. I usually try to pick a powder that will fill most of the volume in the case, provide good speed, and stay within pressures. I also hit several web sites such as this one and loadyourown.com to see what other guys with similar rifles are using. After going through all that info, I'll usually pick the top 2 powders and start there. At that point, if groups aren't good, I change bullets before I start jumping around with different powders. Personally, I think if you pick a powder that many have had success with, you're better off changing bullets first before powders. You'll get the most dramatic changes with a bullet change. Once you find a bullet that your rifle likes, start playing with powders.