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<Savage 99> |
Call up RCBS Monday and ask them about it. The cutter may be dull. I just deburred some nickel WW brass on the outside by hand using a very old Foster tool. It did fine but your right that the nickel plated brass is harder to do. On the inside I use a 15 degree tool held in a chuck. I spin the case in my fingers slowly to get the cut uniform. The angle on the Foster tool that I have is too sharp to do a good job. Look in Sinclairs catalog or site for a 15 degree inside deburr tool. Also search here for the topic by Hot Core on using a brush and steel wool to tweak the inside of a case neck. | ||
one of us |
you can do that with a home made tool made with center drill in carbide ( not cheap ) fit in a ground steel rod ( from industrial equipement shop ) to match to the neck , choose a center drill with diameter ( small diameter ) close to tight to the primer flash hole by this way you get perfect chamfrering without chatter good shooting DAN TEC | |||
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One of Us |
From what I have read not long ago nickle plated brass is abrasive. The person who wrote it said it was bad enough it should not be used.If you can accept that maybe you should just return the cases for being defective. Roger | |||
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<eldeguello> |
I do mine by hand with an RCBS hand deburring tool, and have had no problems at all doing nickel cases with it! But I only do 50 at a time, not 200!! | ||
one of us |
I deburr my .338 nickel-plated cases by hand, with a RCBS deburr tool. Before I decap all cases (brass or nickel), I always brush the inside of the cases with a soft nylon brush to remove any trash that may get inside. For the .33 cases I use a .25 caliber pistol bore-cleaning nylon brush. I have never had any problems with nickel-plated cases, and prefer them to brass cases when I hunt in humid areas. | |||
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one of us |
Ditto, I have never had any trouble using nickel cases and I've been using them for over 35 years. If your deburring tool won't remove the burr, it sounds like your tool might be dull. I've used Lyman, RCBS, Forster, and CH and have never had a problem with any of them. | |||
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one of us |
I don't use nickel cases. They scratch the holy bejeebers out of my reloading dies. I find them rather brittle. The thing I like about them is that the cases polish up nicely making it much easier for tired old eyes to spot defects in the cases. To each his own I guess. Best wishes. Cal - Montreal | |||
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one of us |
I use nickel in my hunting rounds if possible. They are slicker @ load easier and are more handling & weather resistant than brass. It is a harder surface than brass and if your deburring tool is dull that might explain your problem. I have used nickeled brass for a looonng time and you can't beat it in the woods. Easier to find ejected cases too. | |||
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one of us |
I just ran into trouble with the Ni cases last week. I was preping R-P cases for the 280 Remington when I first noticed the primers wouldn't seat properly. Tried R-P 9 1/2M, F210's F215's and WLR's, all failed to fit properly. Then I tried to chamber them, no luck there either. Let the expletives fly, cranked the size die down, and tried again. Still no luck. Took them back, exchanged them for regular brass, problem solved! Never had that happen before. | |||
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one of us |
RP brass has been on a downward spiral for quite some time, especially the nickle platd stuff. Poor quality control, thin inconsistant plating, easily flakes after only a few firings as with primer pocket being suspect. Federal and Winchester Nickle plated is of much higher quality. | |||
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