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Case neck cleaning.
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Bit of a newby question, only been loading a season and still learning.

Sitting at the loading bench last night (as you do), l was cleaning the inside necks of a batch for my .243 and found that using the nylon brush l was leaving some colour inside the necks ( little bit of green and some scorch residue). So l tried the same procedure with the phos' bronze barrel brush and found l got better results. lt didn't go right back the shiny brass but the inside case necks looked a whole lot better. My question is should l have been using the phos' bronze all along, will doing this effect the case neck in any way. l haven't used this brass yet to see if it makes any differance to accuracy, but just thought l'd ask you folks first.

Dave.
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Posts: 386 | Location: Displaced Yorkshireman | Registered: 16 October 2004Reply With Quote
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I never clean inside case necks unless some "fall in the dirt" type condition occurred..... I can't find a reason to do so as a normal process of reloading.

I do like to tumble in a vibro bowl however but that also is not necessary.

Personally.....I'd just quit doing it.


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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Vapodog.

l don't have a tumbler, and didn't consider needing one if l just brushed the cases out by hand. l didn't fancy having a lot of verdigris/powder residue in the neck of the case and not knowing what efect it might have on the powder or bullets as well as any accuracy issues when trying to jam a bullet in on top of it.
l've been shooting good groups with my regular load, so as you say, is it really needed or am l just getting boged down with unneeded issues.

Regards.

Dave.
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Posts: 386 | Location: Displaced Yorkshireman | Registered: 16 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Dave

I take a small diameter 22 brush and wrap strands of fine steel wool around it to clean the inside of the necks. The brass brush itself could put fine scratches in the brass which would then lead to a variable grip on the bullet. In larger caliber cases it is easier to do the steel wool thing, but it would probably work in a 243. I use the Lee Zip Trim so I use the steel wool on the outside of the case also and it cleans all but the case head like a new penny.


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Posts: 2750 | Location: Houston, Tx | Registered: 17 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Woods.

Thanks for the reply. Hadn't thought of wire wool, though l can see your point as regards possible damage to the necks using the brush. This may well be the way to go should l consider doing so with my next batch and see what happens.

Thanks.

Dave.
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Posts: 386 | Location: Displaced Yorkshireman | Registered: 16 October 2004Reply With Quote
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I must be too picky. I treat the insides of my case necks with graphite via a nylon bore brush
LLS


 
Posts: 996 | Location: Texas | Registered: 14 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Dave

FWIW, I am a benchrest shooter, both long and short range. I do not know a benchrest shooter who does not clean the inside of case necks by one method or another. Religiously. Every time. All the time.

Ray


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Posts: 1560 | Location: Arizona Mountains | Registered: 11 October 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Every time. All the time.


Would you mean by tumbling or do you mean by hand after tumbling?


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Posts: 4326 | Location: Under the North Star! | Registered: 25 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by boilerroom:
quote:
Every time. All the time.
Would you mean by tumbling or do you mean by hand after tumbling?


I brush mine regardless of how I clean the outside. I usually wait to brush them right before loading them since I've found that letting them set for a long time will cause the oxidation (or whatever it is) to come back. Try this experiment. Take 5 cases that have not had the necks cleaned and 5 that have. Mix them up. Using a hand seater in an arbor press or some other seater that is sensitive and seat a bullet in each one. I'll bet you'll be able to pick out the 5 that have been cleaned.

Now I'll be the first to agree that cleaning the inside, or outside either, may not make any difference in grandaddy's old 30-30 or even your 06, but it only takes a few seconds and just might. It's a good habit to get into. JMHO

Ray


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Posts: 1560 | Location: Arizona Mountains | Registered: 11 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Gentlemen.

Many thanks for all the replies and advice, it would seem everyone has his own variation of how much time/energy he wants to put into the procedure. The more l sit and think (the wife says l should get off my arse and do something) about it the more l believe it can only be an improvement even if a small one in terms of accuracy.
Cheechako, will try what you have said and take the touch test, if l can get that sensatice l may even be able to handle the wife ( Naa).

Regards.

Dave.
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Posts: 386 | Location: Displaced Yorkshireman | Registered: 16 October 2004Reply With Quote
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I don't feel as if powder residue inside necks is really much of a problem, but residual lubrication IS. I like to tumble after resizing in order to assure that all case lube is removed from both insides and outsides of necks and fully absorbed by the tumbling media. If you don't have a tumbler, a frequently changed swab made from a rolled paper towel can be used to manually clean the lube from inside the necks. Whatever you do, get the damn lube out and forget the inert and irrelavent powder residue.

While a bore brush or steel wool may very well remove powder residue from the inside of the neck, if powder residue were really an issue, what about the other 95% of the inside of the case other than the neck that the bore brush doesn't touch? Besides, a bore brush is a poor tool to absorb lube and will likely leave some behind (now liberally salted with the powder residue!) at the point where the base of the neck meets the shoulder.
 
Posts: 13263 | Location: Henly, TX, USA | Registered: 04 April 2001Reply With Quote
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I wrap a bit of steel wool around a brass brush and use it in an electric drill. I have been doing this for quite a while without affecting the neck thickness at all. It cleans the brass real well.


Bob
 
Posts: 529 | Location: Harrison, Maine - Pensacola, Fl. | Registered: 18 January 2005Reply With Quote
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The more l sit and think .............. about it the more l believe it can only be an improvement even if a small one in terms of accuracy.


And I'll bet the store you'll NEVER see any effect on accuracy!!! A complete waste of time, and all benchresters don't do it, and as a matter of fact when I was shooting it I never saw a single one do it!
 
Posts: 1261 | Location: Placerville, CA, US of A | Registered: 07 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Bob338:And I'll bet the store you'll NEVER see any effect on accuracy!!! A complete waste of time, and all benchresters don't do it, and as a matter of fact when I was shooting it I never saw a single one do it!


Bob

I don't know when you last went to a benchrest match but I've been shooting benchrest since 1969 and they do and it does make a difference in accuracy. It has everything to do with neck tension and bullet pull. But, you're entitled to your opinion.

Ray


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Posts: 1560 | Location: Arizona Mountains | Registered: 11 October 2004Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Stonecreek:
I don't feel as if powder residue inside necks is really much of a problem, but residual lubrication IS. I like to tumble after resizing in order to assure that all case lube is removed from both insides and outsides of necks and fully absorbed by the tumbling media. If you don't have a tumbler, a frequently changed swab made from a rolled paper towel can be used to manually clean the lube from inside the necks. Whatever you do, get the damn lube out and forget the inert and irrelavent powder residue.

While a bore brush or steel wool may very well remove powder residue from the inside of the neck, if powder residue were really an issue, what about the other 95% of the inside of the case other than the neck that the bore brush doesn't touch? Besides, a bore brush is a poor tool to absorb lube and will likely leave some behind (now liberally salted with the powder residue!) at the point where the base of the neck meets the shoulder.


Stonecreek

I don't tumble my brass and use a Lee Collet Neck Sizer so I don't have to lube the inside of the neck. I do agree that the lube should be cleaned out of the inside of the case 100%.

The main reason I use the steel wool on the inside of the necks is to remove powder residue, oxidation, and help alleviate scratches or any ridges left by the chamfering process. Sort of smooth things out. Any inert material that is in the case body that will not blow out by air compressor or shake out doesn't concern me.

I agree that if I were still lubing the necks, the bore brush and steel wool would be a poor way of doing it.

My opinion: Use a Lee Collet Die and give up the expander balls and lube.


____________________________________
There are those who would misteach us that to stick in a rut is consistency - and a virtue, and that to climb out of the rut is inconsistency - and a vice.
- Mark Twain |

Chinese Proverb: When someone shares something of value with you and you benefit from it, you have a moral obligation to share it with others.

___________________________________
 
Posts: 2750 | Location: Houston, Tx | Registered: 17 January 2005Reply With Quote
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