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<BigBores> |
Old Western Scrounger lists the brass, and the dies for 350 Rem Mag. | ||
<ssleefl> |
No leads for brass but may I suggest that when you order some to order a aftermarket recoil pad at the same time. This may reduce the down time inbetween orders. Before you comment... yes, I am a wuss. Good luck hunting and let us know how the rifle shoots. | ||
<cs> |
I'll tell him about OWS, he already ordered some dies from RCBS. About the recoil, he said that I had to shoot it first. I am also a wuss about recoil, so I might decline his offer. He's about as much as a p**sy as I am, so he might not need any ammo after all. | ||
one of us |
RCBS probably has brass for the 350 RemMag too. If you have access to a copy of "Gun List" or "Shotgun News" check out the componentns for sale sections...you see it advertised all the time. | |||
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one of us |
Hey cs, First off, concerning your comment, "A friend of mine has a 350 Rem Model 7 on order (more money than brains) and ....", If that just happens to be a M7KS, I have one of them myself. Not real sure what that says about the money/brains connection for me! ;^) ANYWAY, I was doing pretty good going through this thread until I got to your next comment about, "He's about as much as a p**sy as I am, so he might not need any ammo after all.", and now I'm having difficulty seeing through the "Wet-Eyes" of laughter to wham this in. It really isn't all that bad. And the M7KS comes with a good Recoil Pad as has been suggested. But, since you all will be Loading your own, there is nothing that says you must start WIDE-OPEN!! It really is possible to "work your way up". I got my cases from Midway, but it has been a good while since I've bought any new ones. The ones I have are holding up really well. Here are a few tips for you all. NEVER hunt with it unless you are wearing Sonic Ear Valves or some other hearing protection. Mine go in my ears(now) before a cartridge goes into the chamber. My ears still ring from having fired mine twice inside the woods without hearing protection. (Kind of lends support to your "money/brains" analysis!) The 20" barrel length and the 350RemMag do best with Single Base Powders in the H4895, IMR-4064 range. Varget may do as well, but I've just not tried it. However, Double Base Powders just give way too much muzzle flash. Now, I don't mean a little light, I'm talking about serious muzzle flash with BL-C2. Didn't even bother to try WW-748 since it is also Double Base. Seems like a lot of folks want to use the 225gr and 250gr bullets. Well, I can tell you it is going to be extremely difficult to find a better bullet than the 200gr Hornady Spire Point (#3510). It is quite a fine "tough" bullet. If you all decide to use it on Deer, it would be best to include one or both shoulders in the shot. If you go only for the lungs, then either the 180gr Speer or the 200gr Sierra works real well. I have a 3.5-10x VariX-III on mine and it weighs 7 3/8 pounds. Which reminds me, you will want to use a good solid Scope Mount. If you use the old Redfield style with the adjustable Rear Base screws, you might have some problems holding the scope still. I've got the Leupold Dual Dovetail mount and Rings which do a fine job. But, I believe a Dual Dovetail Base coupled with Burris Signature rings would be the best of all. Really a great accurate Deer killer which never takes more than 1-shot. ------------------ | |||
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One of Us |
I have a Remington Custom Shop Model 7 KS in .350 Rem. Mag. I have no problem with recoli with 225 grain X bullets at 2580 fps (but I weigh 260). They produced one-shot kills in Africa on 5 animals and do the duty on deer. I agree about powder choices. AA 2520 will flash like a howitzer. Varget is really good and 4320 is o.k. Midway has brass. [This message has been edited by judgeg (edited 07-29-2001).] | |||
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<Bruce Gordon> |
You could always do the initial shooting with the pistol bullet loads. I doubt that 110 grain hollow points would have too much recoil. That has always struck me as one of the things that would make the 350 Rem Mag a good caliber for practice as well as hunting. | ||
<Red Rhino> |
Hey cs call welchers gun shop, they have a huge box of 350 rem mag brass. A few thousand it looks like. (253) 472-1113 | ||
one of us |
I used to have a 6.5 Remington Magnum, which is on a case identical to the 350. I easily formed brass from any standard magnum round by just running it through the die and then cutting or trimming to the right length. This is no big trick and should be even easier with the 350 than the 6.5. Although this makes the neck from the former shoulder area, I never needed to ream or turn the necks to reduce thickness. Everything worked fine and the gun shot well. Virgin brass would probably be better than once-fired. I never needed to anneal. My suggestion would be to buy a supply of whatever the cheapest magnum brass you can find is (probably 7mm Remington), and go from there. | |||
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one of us |
http://www.blue-star-inc.com/rbrass.htm Blue Star lists it in stock. I think the 350 RM is a fine cartridge in search of an equally fine rifle. Too bad Remington never figured out how to market it. Same for the .35 Whelen and their 1-16 twist that crippled it for use with heavy bullets. DUMB! | |||
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<Bill Tompkins> |
Since one system or the other just ate my response I will re-cap in much more brevity. To the best of my knowledge and experience you can't simply neck down any brass to the degree that is being discussed and not have to neck turn especially since I.D neck reaming is an accuracy No-No. The inside dimensions of 2.500" brass taper from thin to thick. So when you size it down to 6.5 Rem. Mag. length you have compressed thin brass to thick brass let alone going from 7MM to 6.5MM. The necks will be thick both inside and outside and will not chamber. This is after more than 1000-6.5 Rem. Mag. conversions from .264 brass. You have to neck expand slightly(0.001) then neck turn to reduce the O.D. while still trying to maintain neck tension on the bullet. Maybe we should discuss this further? Bill | ||
<Dale> |
I have formed a lot of .350 Rem. brass just as Stonecreek suggested with no problems. I started by running them into a FL sizing die with the decapping stem removed, then sawed them off with a hacksaw and then trimmed to length in a case trimmer. Later I bought a trim die and sawed them off. I used belted magnum brass including R-P .264 Win., W-W 7mm Rem., Fed. and R-P .300 Win., .300 Wby., and W-W .338 Win. brass. All worked well and none ever needed neck turning, but I would think it would probably be necessary if you are making 6.5 cases. I ran a test with 20 pieces of brass, half of which was annealed. I lost one case to a split neck on the 12th firing. My rifle is a Rem. 700 Classic. I have lost track of all the 5-shot groups it has fired under 1 inch. The consistently most accurate load is the 220 gr. Speer with 56.0 gr. of IMR-4320. It worked well on a lot of feral hogs, but seems to be a little soft on anything bigger. I took a nice black bear with the 250 gr. Speer with the lead tip filed down to the jacket so I didn't have to seat the bullet so far into the case. The bullet hit near the back of the ribs and went forward, stopping at the base of the skull. The recovered weight was 171 grs. My wife does not mind shooting the rifle, but she is not a wimp. | ||
<Bill Tompkins> |
Dale, Yep, absolutely correct. I was confusing the .350 with the 6.5 which is what I have been working with. I like the idea of removing the lead tip from the bullets. We have played with that on some occassions and haven't seen any ill effects. Bill | ||
one of us |
Bill: Yes, I was a bit surprised that I didn't need to neck ream or turn when producing 6.5's from .264's. But as you know, chambers vary and the Ruger 77 I was loading for accepted the reformed brass without any neck thinning. I wouldn't suggest that it would be this way with all chambers, but none the less, forming 6.5 or 350 Remington from 2.5" magnum cases is pretty easy. As with any round, your neck wall thickness has to be adjusted to your chamber if the two don't happen to match. | |||
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