If you talk to the head tech at sako finland.His name is Pentti Lusina.He will garauntee sub 1/2 moa,and all of their guns I own do that and better.The harder hitting stuff like the 300 weath. are barely under that consistently,but stuff like their varminter worm holes consistently.None of these guns have had a trigger or bedding.Pick em up and go.
I have two Ruger 77s (old models). One is in .25-06 and the other 7mm Mag. Both shoot under an inch with handloads. My other pet is a Model 70 Featherweight in .22-250, and it shoots under an inch as well. I tumbled onto what has turned out to be great advice some time ago on the Arnold Arms web site (can't find it now). Their guidance was to invest in a dial caliper and set of cartridge overall length gauges that measure from the case base to the bullet ogive (bullet comparator). Also, you need a chamber length gauge. This, combined with careful reloading allows me to start with bullets touching or as little as .001" off the lands. I then work backwards, in .010 increments, with the overall length being the only variable I change. I have found that once I find the "sweet spot", that I can run the powder charge up and down as much as two grains each direction and still get good groups. I'm convinced that this is the key to getting factory rifles to shoot. Of course, you still have to do the bedding, trigger work, have a quality scope, and be able to shoot.
Oh, and when you are seating bullets, don't go all the way with one stroke. Go part way, withdraw the cartridge and rotate it 1/4 turn, go some more, rotate, some more, rotate. I take 4 strokes to seat bullets. This provides some insurance that the bullet isn't cocked to one side or the other.
BTH, I think your expectations may be a tad lofty for out of the box guns, and for reloading too, at least in the near term. When I buy a new gun, I have, after examining the piece, no expectations whatsoever. I go to the range and shoot, then the tale begins. I expect that by following the tips already listed regarding trigger and bedding, you will find sub MOA performance with the VLS and 77. I have yet to see a Model 7 that was superbly accurate, but that is probably my own experience.
My reasons for reloading in the early days were related to cost. Today it is for versatility, accuracy, and feeding guns chambered in obscure or obsolete ammo. You CAN beat factory ammo, it just takes some experience. One problem I have is that other than some shotgun loads and .22rf, I haven't fired a factory round for group in decades off a bench. I know it is better than it used to be, but the point is lost on me. I'm better than the factories, and I enjoy the process.
I think the scope plays a part here also. All my .224 centerfires wear a 6x18 or 6x24. I get a much better sight picture than someone with a 3x9 scope and should be able to shoot smaller groups. My least accurate wears a 4x12. It's also my lowest power scope. At 67 years old I need all the magnification I can get. I get the odd superb group with the rifle that has the 4x12, but it's not consistent like with the higher magnification. It often makes quite a difference. Best wishes.
Quote: BTH, Email me, I'll show you how to get that trigger lighter, jarhty28@hotmail.com J
The fastest safest way to adjust a Trigger is replace it with a Jewel you wont be disappointed.
And it would be the most expensive, I've saved myself a few hundred dollars by adjusting my factory Remington triggers from 19-26oz,(instead of the Jewell route) and they're as safe as anything out there. My 223 is the only rifle with a Jewell, but then again I shoot that rifle alot, all target shooting for now, I like a 9oz trigger for that kind of work. J
Posts: 1745 | Location: WI. | Registered: 19 May 2003
I agree on the scope--but first and foremost buy a quality scope--spending as much as you spend on the rifle. That means Leupold, or one of the German gold-plated jobs with diamonds for lenses.
