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one of us |
Just load and clean the same as usual,using a good copper/lead remover.I have been using Tetra,and just switched to CR-10.Of course if you'r shooting non-gas checked bullets,don't attempt to get the same velocities as you do with jacketed,or you'll be doing a whole lotta cleaning. Jeff | |||
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<Win94> |
Yeah, what does gas checked and non gas checked mean?? Is that the grooves in the bullet?? Gots to get me a lyman Cast bullet Reloading Guide | ||
one of us |
Mark, Gas checks are gilding metal (looks like copper, but is harder) cups (very shallow depth) that fit on the back of cast bullets. Such bullets have a reduced diameter shank at their rear to accomodate the gas check. Generally they are applied via a lube & sizing die of a particular dimension. The die is either press-mounted (Lee Precision) or fitted into a lube-sizing machine (Lyman, RCBS, Saeco, Star) specifically made for that purpose. Gas checked bullets can be driven significantly faster than plain based ones without leading your bore. When that happens, accuracy goes south and you're faced with the task of removing it from your bbl. ("Chore Boy" copper pads w/o soap wrapped around your bore brush works very well.) And yes, the type of bullet lube you apply is important with respect to accuracy, velocity and bore leading: Lee Liquid Alox, NRA formula 50% beeswax-50% alox, Lyman SuperMoly, Lyman Orange Magic are all excellent lubes, but with the exception of liquid alox, all must be applied via the lube-sizing machine. Also, you must clean the copper fouling from your bbl. before using CB'sbecause it adversely affects accuracy. Hope this helps, ...Maven | |||
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one of us |
Mark, You are correct, get yourself a Lyman Cast bullet manual, I believe most recent edition is from 3rd edition. Read it and it will prep you well for your adventure...leading to addiction...Obsession... well, you know how it goes. regards, Graycg | |||
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one of us |
You may want to get a Lyman M die before you start reloading the lead bullets. The M die is used before seating the lead cast bullet. It slightly expands the case neck so when you seat the bullet you do not shave any lead off of it, which is a no-no. Lyman makes the M die in various sizes. One M die in a particular size serves many calibers. For example, the .30 caliber M die can be used for the .30-30, .30-06, .308 etc. Cost is around $20.00. | |||
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one of us |
From Modern Reloading,"Gas checks are small coppercups that fit on the base of the bullet.Gas checks are a method of enhancing bullet performance by sealing the base of the bullet against gas blow by and sheilding the lead from the high temps generated by the gunpowder.Normally ,plain base bullets can be fired at velocities up to around 1400 fps (heat treated or "hard bullets",# 2 alloy or harder) somewhat faster).A gas check increases the limit to over 2000 fps." Simply put,what the gas check does (among other things) is preventing the base of the bullet from melting and transferring the lead to your bbl. Using 'hard" bullets I'v ran them to 1650 fps with no signicant leading.Normally when you buy,if its gaschecked there'll be a "GC"in the description,such as 350gr FPGC or something to that effect. Hope I did'nt confuse things more.Was assuming that he bought premade,prelubed cast bullets,and had a die set with expander die. Jeff [ 02-26-2003, 01:19: Message edited by: jsr ] | |||
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<Win94> |
......bump | ||
<eldeguello> |
There has to be bullet lubricant in the grease grooves of the bullets before you load them! But this is to lube the bore when the thing is fired, not to make the bullets easier to seat in the case. If you are using smokeless powder, at the velocities you are trying for, I would use the NRA formula ALOX lube, like Javelina, or the equivalent. Lyman sells an NRA formula lube also. If you are going for higher velocities, you need a lube like LBT Blue Lube or its equivalent (if any!!). To load a cast bullet properly, you have to "bell" the mouth of the case slightly (USING THE LYMAN "M" DIE MENTIONED ABOVE)so you can start each bullet into the case neck STRAIGHT by hand before you put the case in the bullet seating die. This is to keep the case mouth from shaving any lead off of the bullet as it is seated. (Bell the mouth the least you can and still not damage the bullet, because the more you work the brass, the sooner it splits!!) If you get ANY shaving, the bullets will NOT be accurate. Cast bullets, even very hard ones, are soft and delicate compared to jacketed bullets, and it is EASY to damage them to where they won't shoot well. If you are going to crimp the bullets with the seating die, do this as a final step. First, leave enough of the die unscrewed from the press while seating each bullet so the crimping shoulder doesn't touch the case mouth. Seat all your bullets to the proper depth, then screw the seating stem OUT far enough that it can no longer touch the bullet, then screw the seating die into the press to the point that it now crimps your case mouths the way you want. Now crimp all your rounds and put them into the cartridge box. Good luck!! [ 02-28-2003, 21:42: Message edited by: eldeguello ] | ||
Moderator |
You never mentioned what caliber you are loading for, and what velocities you wish to achieve. Keyholing is usually caused by a bullet not traveling fast enough to be stabalize. Leading can be caused by pushing a bullet too fast, or a rough bore. | |||
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one of us |
I think it should be noted that a bullet hah to be designed to use a gas check...you cant put a gas check on a bullet not designed for it...right? I have swagged-sized some bullets before and the back end is smaller in dia where the check attaches......Bob | |||
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one of us |
Sorry to but in Mark, I cannot offer any help with your cast bullet queries. I was just over hunting near Cold Lake last week for wolves. We saw a lot of sign, got some howling responses to our calls, but no wolves showed. Do you know the area? What is the wolf population up there like? Thanks | |||
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<Win94> |
Express, i just sent you an e-mail. | ||
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