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Water Quenching and Annealing Brass
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303Guy
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This has been debated quite a lot. Here is the answer;

Water quenching after annealing (while still hot) is the best thing to do. Not because it protects the head from being annealed but because it prevents the regrouth of larger crystals in the neck area. That is, slow cooling is less effective than rapid cooling, as in water quenching.


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303Guy
 
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WiNdTeCh
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Posts: 67 | Location: IOWA | Registered: 10 May 2009Reply With Quote
bartsche
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quote:
Originally posted by 303Guy:
This has been debated quite a lot. Here is the answer;

Water quenching after annealing (while still hot) is the best thing to do. Not because it protects the head from being annealed but because it prevents the regrouth of larger crystals in the neck area. That is, slow cooling is less effective than rapid cooling, as in water quenching.

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Posts: 10226 | Location: Temple City CA | Registered: 29 April 2003Reply With Quote
tnekkcc
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10 years ago I read about annealing necks on Varmint Al's web site.
I tried it.
That is a fast way to wreck brass.

I own 50 times as much brass as I fire per year.
I have ~ 10 years left to hunt.

I am giving up on annealing.
 
Posts: 9043 | Location: on the rock | Registered: 16 July 2005Reply With Quote
SR4759
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I have annealed a lot of brass with excellent results. I have an autoloader that mangles brass.
I would much rather cut off and form brass for the autoloader from range pickup 30-06 than to pay retail for new brass that is going to be chewed up and ejected onto the ground.
 
Posts: 13978 | Location: http://www.tarawaontheweb.org/tarawa2.jpg | Registered: 03 December 2008Reply With Quote
James Kain
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Hey what are some of the ways people anneal and quench there brass? Maybe we could come up with a effective method that will not wreck brass and so on and so forth. I believe I have seen these posted before.....


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