I bought a set of .223 Redding Type S Full Sizing Dies a couple of years ago, but have never used them. I want to try them out, but am having trouble understanding the instructions.

Does it work as a neck die when I have a bushing in it?

Do I take the bushing out to do full length resizing-or at least to bump the shoulder back?

If I need to bump, do I do this in 2 steps where I do the neck and then bump the shoulder in a seperate operation?

The fired necks are .255" What size bushings would you try?

Do the TiN coated bushing eliminate the need for lube when doing the necks?

Sorry for so many questions. These things seemed like the cat's meow when I bought them, but I have forgotten everything I read about them since that time.

Thanks!

The die is a full length die that you can adjust the amount of neck sizing by changing the neck bushing.

With a bushing in place the die operates just like any full length die. The difference is you can select the amount of "squeeze" the die puts on the neck. And you can change that amount of "squeeze"by changing the bushing. But you can bump the shoulder, or full length size just like any other die(with the bushing installed)
Without the bushing the die is just a body die.

Selecting a bushing recomendations are to measure the neck diameter of loaded cartridges. Average of a few. Then subtract .001" or .002".
An example... a 223 Rem loaded rounds average .248" diameter. subtracting .001" is .247" this would be your bushing size.
DO NOT SELECT YOUR BUSHING SIZE BASED ON FIRED CASE SIZE !

If you need to bump With bushing in place adjust the die to provide the amount of shoulder setback you want and bump away.

You will still need to lube your cases. The body is still being squeezed and shoulder pushed back no matter what happens with the neck. The Tin coated bushings just make it a smoother/quieter operation vs. the steel ones.

I hope I helped not muddied up the question.

muck

aaaaahhhh...thank you! I would have ordered the wrong size bushing for sure. Do you use these dies? Are they work the extra headache?

Good answer by muck!

Do not select your bushing size based on a fired case because this is the diameter of your rifle's chamber neck (with .001"-.002" springback). You could however measure the neck thickness of your fired cases and add bullet diameter i.e. case neck thickness .012" x 2 =.024" + .224" bullet diameter = .248". Then select a .247" or .246" bushing.

I use these dies and believe they are well worth it.

Remove the sizing button from the decapping stem. Otherwise, you may interfere with the tolerance and/or straightness of the neck.

I do not tighten the decapping stem all the way against the bushing to allow the bushing to float and self align with the case neck. Hoping concentricity will result.

quote:

Originally posted by Winchester 69:
Remove the sizing button from the decapping stem. Otherwise, you may interfere with the tolerance and/or straightness of the neck.

+1

I decap on a universal decapping die to prevent the button from pulling on the case when it exits the die.

I set my neck diameter to match my chamber dimensions. I select the bushing size so that the loaded rounds fit with .002-.003" of neck clearance in my guns that have custom chambers.

I had to read your original post a couple of times, Marc, and then check to see.

Mine is the Redding Competition FL bushing die. Not the Type S.

As far as I can tell, the Competition model is just a glorified neck sizing bushing die, with a sleeve to guide the case into the bushing.

It will not bump the shoulder.

And there's no expander ball.

I don't have enough experience with this to tell you empirically whether it's good or not.

It does seem to create rounds as accurate as those made with the Lee collet die.

I did, however, take heed of the Redding instructions to choose a bushing based on the size of a reloaded cartridge using the cases I intend to use--Lapua, pretty uniform--and the bullets.

This is all very complex, but, in general, my understanding is that bushing size will have a profound effect on case neck tension.

As a result, I was a little dismayed to read Frank's post.

As a glittering generalization, I believe bushing size should be viewed in terms of case neck tension, and independent of chamber size.

Please note that his advice is for "...guns that have custom chambers."

flaco

N.B. I'm hoping I don't have to confirm that I read all Frank's posts with the utmost respect, and see him as one of our most valuable contributors.

When I made this rifle several years ago I had a .249" neck reamer ground. I never finished the gun for 4 years, and by that time finally started shhoting it. Turned out factory ammo had to be crammed in, so I borrowed a friend's neck reamer and opened the neck up. I can now stick anything in it.

It seems to me that if I can use any bushing I need in the Redding die and use my universal decapper, then there would be no need for me to use the expander button on this die. That should reduce the case trimming requirements and case neck stretch. Is this correct?

I always thought the majority of the case lengthening came from the expander. If I can adjust my neck size then there is no need at all for the button.

Marc,

Unless you neck turn, the case neck will be uneven in brass thickness. In general you don't want to neck turn unless you have a "tight neck" custom chamber. When you size the neck, the neck thickness irregularities are pushed to the inside diameter of the case neck and when you pull the sizing (expander) button out of the case neck it pushes the irregularities back to the outside of the case neck diameter so the bullet can be seated. Your neck size is limited to the neck thickness times 2 (for each side of the case neck) plus the bullet diameter. You then will need .001" to .002" neck sizing to grip the bullet.

The brass works when the case neck opens in the chamber to release the bullet. The bigger diameter of the neck chamber the more the brass case neck is worked.

If this is not helpful let me know with another post and I will try again.

Buliwyf

Got it. Thanks!

I don't want to fool with turning and will just use the expander and trim as necessary.

This is an important subject and can be hard to write out. Glad it worked.

One last small comment; Think of the bottle neck cases like the .223 Rem using a "sizing" button because they really don't "expand" or "bell-open" the case mouth the way a straight sided case like a .458 Win Mag expander die does.

Good Shooting.

Another hint for the use of the Redding dies. Don't lock the rod with the counter nut. This will leave the rod "dangling" loosly in the die and enable the expander button to align itself centrally in the neck

Good point by McFox. Add in the Forester/Bonanza Co-Ax press and presto! All ingredients for alignment.