Hi!
Considering replacement of my .260 Rem. sizing die (Hornady new dimension) with something better. Looking through the options, I'm overwhelmed by the various choices. Neck only. Full Length. Bushing. RCBS X-Die. The list goes on.

Simple and direct question: What have you guys found to be the best sizing die for accurate loading? I've heard bad things about neck-only sizing, have I heard wrong? What about bushing dies like the Redding S-Type? Seems expensive when you consider the added cost of bushings... is it worth it? In short... what should I consider for sizing maximum accuracy reloads in a factory (SAKO 85) rifle?

Thanks!

So how accurate are your reloads now???

Is this a hunting rifle or a BR?

I load for 12 different calibers of hunting rifle's and use your standard RCBS fl die and a neck sizing die along with the lee collett dies for all my reloading IMHO you don't need any more for a hunter.

if it's a hunting rifle and your shooting under 1" it's doing just fine buy more bullets and shoot more.

IT'S THE FIRST SHOT THAT COUNTS WHILE HUNTING.

Hi, US1 !
The rifle is a factory (not bench-rest) SAKO 85 Stainless/Synthetic in .260 Rem. I have only recently completed the barrel break-in process, and the very first group (3 shots) using factory Remington 140gr. Core-Lok ammunition came in at an astonishing 0.2" at 100 yards! I have not yet made any handloads for this rifle, but considering the amazing performance of this rifle on it's first group, I'm really considering doing all that I can to load the very best ammunition I can possibly feed it... just to see what it's really capable of! Probably a silly exercise, but it's got me intrigued anyway!
Thanks again!

I have lots of hornady dies and many of them make phenominal ammo that is really straight. Sometimes you have to fiddle a bit with the expander but once you get that wonderful eliptical expander centered your hornady dies will make as good of ammo as anything out there. Sounds like you have a heck of a gun there. Do you have a runnout gauge in your arsenal of reloading? If I had to make a recomendation to spend money that might help you get better results out of ALL YOUR RELOADING spend the money there first then go after some expensive dies.
If you absolutely have to get out of the Hornady dies I would highly recomend a lee collet die to do the neck followed by a redding body die to bump the shoulder back just a .001-.002". This combo give you alot of flexibility and with any reasonable brass you will get virtually ".000" runnout.

kraky -
Yes, I have a very good homemade runout/concentricity/neck thickness gauge (4 ball bearings on a sliding plate with a 0.0005" marked dial indicator mounted above, and a hole for mounting RCBS neck bushings drilled at one end for neck thickness testing). It's how I originally came to the conclusion that maybe I should consider a different sizing die... I bought a bag of Winchester brass where the case necks were about 0.005" offset from the main case body, and my Hornady sizing die didn't seem to pull them back into alignment.
However... after reading your post, I'm thinking that the real solution might be to fire form the cases, then try again with the Hornady sizing die before giving up on it.
Thanks!

quote:

Originally posted by Gaillo:
I bought a bag of Winchester brass where the case necks were about 0.005" offset from the main case body, and my Hornady sizing die didn't seem to pull them back into alignment.
However... after reading your post, I'm thinking that the real solution might be to fire form the cases, then try again with the Hornady sizing die before giving up on it.
Thanks!

Worrying about runout in new brass is a futile exercise. It only gets interesting once you have fired the brass, sized and loaded it again. You should be using the runout measurement to control the various steps of your reloading process. So if you feel like it, you can measure runout of your fired brass (normally fine), of your sized brass (if you use an expander, this is where you are likely to see a bunch introduced), and finally your seating operation (which normally also introduces some).

I personally like Foster FL sizing dies. I have them modified by Forster to allow me to size without an expander (you specify die inside neck diameter for a specific neck tension), and that takes care of practically all runout introduced in the sizing operation.

If your FL introduces runout, try sizing in two steps: 1) size without an expander, and the 2) expand the necks with the expander loosely fixed in the die. (I don't know if that is possible with a Hornady die?? The expander assembly retaining system is what I traditionally liked the *least* about Hornady dies). That normally produces pretty straight cases.

- mike

Sizing die espanders damage the run-out on case necks more than anything else, your concentricity gage will show you that.

For a bushing or custom diameter neck die to be useful requires that your necks be turned to a consistant thickness first and that isn't always beneficial for factory chambers.

The excellant Forster BR sizers have a unique expander design that allows you to adjust the button up to the point that it begins its work immediately as the neck is being withdrawn from the neck portion of the die. It's good but still not perfect, IMHO.

Lee's Collet Neck Sizer die is "perfect" in that it does not distort the necks at all, it does not require the necks to be turned to work well and it works the necks the absolute minimum for the task so brass lasts longer. But it does have a learning curve that many don't seem to care enough to work through. I like 'em.

Forster or Redding BR/Competition dies have a full body sleeve that duplicates hand dies to insure straight seating if the necks are good.

Enjoy your SAKO!

The hornady expander is one of the smoothest in the business. It is a great "dewrinkler" of virgin brass....all you need is just a smidge of lube and the expander goes in and out slick as can be.
Re the runnout with the hornady die. It might take some fiddling to get the expander perfectly in the middle of the die. You might need someone to help you hold a piece of brass up against the expander as you tighten it. Sometimes it's taken a couple of attempts for me but once you get it in the middle of the die they make absolutely wonderful runnout. I have several sets that make about 90% of loaded ammo under .002" runnout....and thats with your good old win and rem bulk brass...(after fireforming)....it doesn't get much better than that.

Gaillo, I am a Sako nut, have a bunch of them.

If you've got one that is shooting that good this early in the 'training' process, I'd keep making ammo just the way you are! I've had a lot of mine get a little better with several hundred rounds through, so you've got that potential still!

Kraky is always spot on on the die tuning thing, I actually like the Hornady dies a lot.

Great shooting--Don

Gaillo, Most recently I have been working on .308 Loads for long range and paying special attention to runout. The best results I have been getting are with Redding bushing dies. With Lapua brass and bullets runout has been between .001 and .002.

The bushing dies spimply offer more control over the variables.

Good luck and good shooting.

For the money you can't go wrong with the Forster BR dies. Relatively inexpensive and produce very concentric brass.

Forster, and then have the Forster factory hone the sizer neck to the size you want. Get it .001" smaller than what ever works best with bushing dies.

The Forster dies are made with real reamers with collets on Hardinge lathes.

When they put the die back in one of their lathes, it is dialed in.

For best accuracy, I use Wilson sizers and seaters.