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one of us |
Bruce, I can coat bullets with Moly that I consider to be as good as the store bought. I dont think there would be a difference in either one. One thing to consider is that when ypou decide to start shooting the moly bullets that the barrel needs to be really clean and as free of copper as you can get it. I've heard that the groups wont settle in if you shoot moly for a few then shoot naked bullets for a few. Seems that a consistant barrel coating is what it wants. My rifle shoots as good of groups with moly now as it did when it only shot the naked ones and I beleive the pressure is just a tad less with the same velocity. | |||
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one of us |
Usually "Moly coated" bullets mean there's a dry film on the bullets, and home sprayed-on moly bullets are in this category. Only a few manufacturer(Sierra? and Speer?) instead of putting a coat on the bullets, they bump the moly molecules into the copper jacket. The kind that is bumped in is what I prefer. | |||
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Moderator |
I agree with Ray. I find the "Midway" procucts to be satisfactory, especially when using a dedicated tumbler for evenly timed sessions. Molycoating can impact neck tension, pressure curves and group size in various ways in various cartridges. I found it absolutely necessary to keep separate load data for moly and non-moly bullets. On straight walled cases the easing of neck tension may actually alter your burnrate selection. Generally though, I have developed many of my best loads in a given rifle by using molycoating and have reduced fouling, noticably, with the "X" bullets. | |||
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