Some more detail on the case...Like I said, it's 12GA 2 3/4". Low brass, compression formed, black, ribbed plastic. The headstamp simply reads --Remington--
--12-- --GA
--Peters--

The shells came in the green/remington colored box, and I've seen them at Meijer, and Wal-Mart, and at several local sporting goods stores.

I know it's not the highest quality case, and I won't get a lot of loads out of it, but because I have so many, I hate to just throw them out because I can't find info on them.

any help either with this particular case, or about recources I may use to identify shotshell cases would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

B

1. Buy the Lyman Shotshell Reloading handbook. There are plenty of pictures and descriptions of shells to help you figure out what you have.

2. Throw those cases away and only buy/reload either the Winchester AA hull or the Remington Premier target hulls. The cheapo game loads are usually 6 pt crimp and you will never be satisifed with how they load or with their durability.

I've reloaded and shot tens of thousands of shells in competition and in the field. My experience is not unique.

I've loaded thousands of shotshells, and I've found that you can treat those Remington hulls as if they are Remington Premier Target hulls, even though they are not. I've also found that, in 12 gauge, you can treat Remington target hulls and Winchester AA hulls as if they were the same, even though they are not exactly so.

Especially if you are loading for trap or skeet or other target shooting, you can use whatever appropriate powder you can get most cheaply (e.g. Red Dot, 700X, Winchester Super Target, Hodgdon Clays, Hodgdon Titewad, or probably some others) and whatever wad you prefer -- I use the Claybuster clone of the WAA12F1 wad for 1 oz. loads -- and whatever primer (I use Winchester 209) and treat all the plastic hulls the same.

The exception is Federal target hulls -- they have a larger internal size and will give you poor crimps unless you use the Federal wad, which is slightly higher than the Winchester or Remington wads. Paper hulls may be another exception -- I have not loaded those for many years, and I cannot say how they behave.

I shoot skeet and load for about 1125 f.p.s. so my loads are quite light, and each works as well as the other.

If you are going for max field loads, then you need to be more careful as you may get loads that are too high in pressure unless you use the designated hull, primer, and wad.

Unlike rifle loading, shotshell loading is more cut and dried -- find a formula in a book and stick to it in terms of powder amount, wad, and primer -- and less critical, meaning that having a load that is underloaded or overloaded by a bit does not affect performance all that much.

The exception is if you load for an autoloader. In many cases, autoloaders will fail to cycle if the load is too light, especially in cold weather.

quote:

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Originally posted by Jeff S:
2. Throw those cases away and only buy/reload either the Winchester AA hull or the Remington Premier target hulls. The cheapo game loads are usually 6 pt crimp and you will never be satisifed with how they load or with their durability

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I do not agree with this advice. I've reloaded those "cheapo game loads" -- the Remington ones that are sometimes black and sometimes green, and sometimes 8-point crimp and sometimes 6-point crimp -- many times, and I've found that for light target loads they will take numerous reloadings and work quite well. There are other "cheapo" shells such as Fiocchi, Kent, and others that I don't reload. But, just to see how they work, I've reload one or two of each of those brands too, and they do work, although you may have trouble getting a good crimp from them unless you readjust your loading tool to them.

I do agree that the very best results come from the Winchester AA and the Remington Premier Target shells. But if one is loading for target use and one has a supply of those other Remington hulls, then I would (and do) load and use them, especially the 8-point ones. Getting a good load with 6-point crimps will require having a 6-point crimp starter in your loading tool.

I also think that the newest Remington Premier Target hull in 12 ga. is actually better than the Winchester AA, although for many years the AA was considered to be better than any other.

[This message has been edited by LE270 (edited 11-25-2001).]

The Remington STS/Nitro27/Premiere hull is the best thing out there now IMO.

redleg

quote:

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Originally posted by Butler:
I'm new to reloading
B

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Your cases have been identified, but I would like to add a couple of comments.

First, the hull's you have went into production just after remington dropped their RXP line of trap loads. They look and load just like the RXP cases, except for color. AND the RXP was a top of the line case, so I have always felt these field loads were excellent cases.

Further, while others may tell you the cheap hulls don't reload well, I took 2 boxes of cheap walmart federal cases with the paper base wad and reloaded them every week until they failed. At week 12 (the 12th reload) they looked good and had a good crimp. At week 13 several case had the front of the case go down the barrel. Week 14 had more cases separate and I threw the rest away.

The point is that it is important to know how cases fail as well as how long they crimp well.

Old style AA cases (one piece) have a tapered case with thick plastic near the base of the wad. These always failed with a bad crimp or a length wise split. These are not dangerous as far as I can tell.

Most other cases I have seen have heavier plastic at the crimp and the same weight of plastic down the whole tube. These tend to weaken just above the bottem of the wad until 1/2 the case goes into the barrel. This portion of the case may lodge in the barrel and cause barrel buldgeing or splitting on the next shot.

Also, a round with no powder will leave the wad in the barrel. So check the barrel for a wad prior to fireing a shot after a dud.

JerryO

These types of hulls have a slightly larger internal volume that the old one-piece AA hull, so most load combinations okay for AA hulls are good to go with the STS/Nitro27/RTL hulls. The reverse is not necessarily true, though.

While on the subject of shotshell hulls, I personally will not reload a two-piece hull. I still have I have quite a few old-style AA hulls in 12, 20, and 28 gauge and 410 bore but will switch entirely to Remington STS as my old hulls wear out. As for the quality of the hulls you have, they are right there with the best.

In 20 ga, I found that the Winchester AA cases would take, and actually require, considerably more pressure in crimp-forming than would the Remington ones -- the Remington 20 ga. cases buckled in the middle when I tried to load them at the same press settings I was using for the Winchester AAs.

When I finally figured out what the problem was and adjusted the loading tool to put far less pressure on the 20 ga. Remington cases at the crimping stage, I was able to get good loads from them too.

In 28 ga. and .410 I think the AAs are superior to any other brand, and I would use only those if I could get enough of them.

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