I have made my first bullets.
Heres the data...

Hornady .300 grain XTP MAG .454
loaded in Hornady brass
H110

These are ready to be fired.

The reason im pissed off is because I keep getting told.

Get an experienced reloader to work with.
Take more time.
Get the right equipment.

So on and so on.

I have all the above... I just cant have the guy that helps me out with this come over at the drop of a hat he lives several hours away and I only see him at work every other week.

I have every book imaginable... I have more than enough equipment and I have been researching non stop for years.

If I dont do this now then its probably going to be never.

The only reason I ask questions id because most of the information out there is sadly lacking. IMO if somebody blows their hand off its not to to lack of information its due too too much conflicting information, personal opinions and not enough facts.

For every piece of information I have learned about reloading there is a piece of information that says the exact opposite and usually follows with ' you will blow your hand off' or 'you will blow your gun up' and so on.

I know people are just trying to help and im grateful for that.

I just want less of the 'get a book' type answers and more streight facts.

Hel* I even find half the books out there have conflicting info and the manufacturers are no help.

I just have one last question before I go blow myself up.

I have followed the load data in the Hornady handbook for loading .300 XTP MAG with H110.

It says too use Min 28.2g 29.0g 29.8g and 30.6g Max

IS this recipe correct ? The only reason I ask is because I have seen in a post someplace else that this WILL blow up my hand gun.

Yet this data is usually listed FOR handgun so which is correct ?

I also notice Hornady only loads .454 in 300 grain not 300 MAG. Is this a problem in a Taurus .454 revolver ?

I have also been told ONLY use the .300 MAGs because they wont lose their jacket under pressure.

My last thought is the powder seems to fill the case to the point of just about touching the bullet. Something just doesnt feel right about it and so im asking.

I just spent the last 6 hours measuring and re-measuring so im quite sure the measurement is correct. I did however notice that at those grain counts the powder measure and the rcbs balance scale are very touchy. Trying to keep every variable axactly the same I some times get three different charges on the balance scale. It feels like looking at it the wrong way will change the final measure.

Anyway... if this data is correct am I good to go ? thank you for all the help so far and listening to my rants.

What are your first rounds loaded with-grain weight that is??

I have an older Hornady with the 2 cannelure 300 grain bullet but not the Mag. The powder charges are about like your data except the starting load is 26.5 and the max is a bit higher than your data.

Sorry you are agitated.
If you took care to load per the starting load in the manual you will be ok.

However I am never happy seeing a new loader start out with the largest round of a type with the hottest loads and the heaviest bullets.

My next question is, if you started with the start loads what are your plans?
Stay there or move up to the max loads as soon as you can?

I am not sure you can imagine what I am saying but you might enjoy shooting your 454 with milder ammo.

You have a case full of powder because H110 of the burn rate of H110. You will be getting about the maximum pressure and velocity out of that combination.

I shoot rounds with those ballistics a lot, only I use a Browning Highwall in cal 45-70. The larger case develops much less pressure and the longer barrel gains the velocity back. The powder I use is about the same burn rate as H110. You pay for the ballistics by higher pressure, muzzle blast and recoil in a hand gun.
Impressive in a hand gun, ordinary in a rifle.

I am loading both .300/ .300 MAG and .200 grain for my Taurus .454
I started with the .300 MAG and went with the grains reccomended in the book '28.2g, 29.0g, 29.8g and 30.6g'
I didnt use their MAX pressure load... not just yet anyway... I want to get my feet on the ground first.

The .300 grain and up bullets I use for fun and any large critters that may try and eat me in my back yard (not kidding)
The .200 grains are for target/plinking. For this im trying to load a heavy .45 Colt load into Starline .454 brass with 7 grains of Unique

as my starting load. Im told this should work.
Either way I am aiming for overall efficiency rather than havy or light loads. Im more concerned about bullet performance than recoil.
Its just sort of my luck I seem to end up with the heavy loads right from the get go.
I select guns that feel right in my hand and most of them turn out to be heavy calibers.

Well I did it ! I figured... theres only one way to find out and I took the plunge (typical of me)
I fired two rounds of each load reccomended in the manual.
Once fired Hornady brass, H110 powder, Hornady XTP .300 MAG and CCI 400 primers.

First two of 28.2 grains: Nothing remarkable
Second two rounds of 29.0 grains: Much nicer than the first more punch but the recoil seemed like less.
Third set of 29.8 grains: A little more recoil and sure felt like it.
Final set of two at 30.6 grains: Lots of pop and very little felt recoil... this set was (SWEET)

I checked the gun and the brass for any indication that something isnt as it should be. I dont see any obvious signs of overpressure.

The brass is in great shape, the revolver not too bad, the primers dont look flattened or anything... in fact they look alot like my factory

fired primers.

I will take notes for my journal and some pictures of the gun, brass and primers and post this.

Well, you've made rounds or cartridges. Hornady and Nosler make bullets.
As responsible internet friends we have to emphasize caution, especially when the way you "sound" is newbie. Keep on learning, and don't get cute -- be safe.

2 cents

Lol yes sorry I do tend to sound newbie I am in quite a few ways.
I like to ask lots of questions and I tend to re-ask a lot of the same questions until im absolutley sure of the answer... caution I suppose.
Im not saying im gratefull for the help or even the replies that say 'find a friend to help or get a book' Its just im quite far past that point and if I ask a question those are the answers I get. Dont get me wrong im not pissed off about that. Its all the conflicting information out there that pisses me off. The process of reloading is somewhat streight forward. the hardedst part was working through all the misinformation and rumors that surround it. Makes me wonder how many new reloaders have or may be hurt by it. I can even contact places like Hornady and get two conflicting answers to the same question depending on who is working the phones that day.

BTW: only my girlfriend thinks im cute. I have a face only a vision impaired mother could love IMO lol

You'll get there. Keep notes/track and look for a buddy. Remember, all shooters used to handload at one time. If it weren't a controlled explosion we're dealing with it wouldn't be so serious. Be safe

With your computer, this forum and others you have the world of reloading at your finger tips;Literally! When I started I had only a Speer #1 manual and an old Lyman manual. Most guys at that time got their ammo of a dealers shelf. The ONLY personal contact I had was from a counter guy at Higbies sporting goods dept. in Cleveland Ohio. He was about as much help as counter people are today. Add to that I was immature and a little reckless.
The point is that comparing our starting points you are miles ahead. These folks will help you. Keep your questions well thought out, to the point and as brief as possible.
So you might run into a few hard asses but that's part of the game and even they will help. Try not to appear to take offense at what people say or how they say it.If a barrier is built it won't be them that loose out. Now I'll get off my soap box. Welcome aboard roger

As you have noted the H-110 and 296 as well wil fill the cases right up to the bottom of the bullet. Nt that I find this a good practice, but I have read plenty of folks using this as a guide to their load development with these two powders. I personally do NOT recommend it no matter how well intentioned the info might be.

With the Raging Bull if that is what you have, you will find that once you get to a certain pressure level the compensated muzzle brake will actually help. However, with a few loads, you will find that it can still be a beast. Don't let the reduced felt recoil get you overly warm and fuzzy. I went through about 80 rounds one time at the range. Had a WONDERFUL time doing it. Later that evening I had a slight tender spot in my elbow and shoulder. I wrote it off as simply shooting from the bench. The next morning and several consecutive days later the full impact set in and I could hardly use my right arm at all.

The twist and torque of the revolver with all of those loads DID take it's toll on my uneducated arm and shoulder. I have since learned this and have worked up to a point that I can easily shoot a hundred rounds or so comfortably. However, I's just throwing it out there that with the heavy bullets and the fun your having to not do a bunch at one time, and to work up to it slowly. Just sayin.

As for the other issues about conflicting information, if YOU are unsure, simply make a call or shoot an email to the manufacturers of the bullet and/or powder your using and ask them directly. Mention your revolver, barrel length, and components you plan on using and most are more than happy to let you know pretty quickly what they recommend. This takes out the convoluted replies you might get when asking the general populace.

Another source of loads is Accurate Arms. I have been playing with several loads through my 8.375" Raging Bull using AA-9 and finding them to preform just as well if not better than H-110 or 296. I use the load data as listed on their site and have found nothing which hasn't shot well and a few loads which are simply awesome.

Also if you decide to try out some cast bullets, I can highly recommend the Cast Performance 265gr WFNGC and the 300gr LFNGC. Both have preformed great from my revolver at both ends of the load spectrum. I'm sure there are a couple of other great cast out there but these are the only ones I have personal experience with other than my own.

Hope this helps, and wishing you well with your progress.

I'm always cautious about answering questions that sound like inexperience may be an issue. I would not want to answer something incompletely and have my "advice" be the cause of a problem.

That said, You have to understand why people, myself included, often tell people to read the manuals. I couldn't begin to tell you how many times I've been asked a question, and in answering them ask about which manual they are using. When they admit they didn't read it, or only read a part of it, it explains why they are confused.
I don't have much pistol loading experience so I rarely comment on questions regarding pistol ammo.

Don't get rubbed by unfriendly sounding responses. This internet thing makes it easy to take things differently than they were intended.

As a personel recomindation I would see how those bullets fit the throats of your of your chambers.If the bullets will not go through the throats then you will get higher than normal pressure and higher kick. With factory bullets its not unknow to see differences of 0.0015" from bullets out of the same box. My Ruger Bis. 45LC came from the factory with throats that went from 0.4485" to 0.452". I had all the throats reamed to 0.452 and uses bullets sized to 0.4515" so the bullets go through the throats like butter. Just becauses a box is marked 454 dose not mean that they are 454. I have a Lee pushthrough 0.451 sizer and cast and jacketed bullets come out 0.4515"

I think there maybe one thing you are overlooking. Your gun is not the same gun the testers that shot for the manuals used.
They may have used a universal reciever. This is a maxcnie that is designed to fit barrles chambered for eveything. This "guns" don't have a barrel cylinder gap, they might have a tighter barrel or chamber.
There are too many possible differences to list.
Each book had different guns and different testers so they all vary some. I have 7 different books as well as data from powder makers and bullet makers to reference. No two are exactly the same. I like to average out the starting loads and maxloads as well as the matching velocities. I then use that as a guide.
I start at the starting loads then work up. toward the max. Wtahcing for signs of pressure.
Take my Ruger SBH. it had the 7 1/2 barrel. I was testing it with 2400 powder and Lyman's cast 429421. I started out with an 18 gr load and used .5 grain steps to a bit over the average max load of about 20.5 grs. I had them loaded up to around 22 or 23. I don't recall exactly. BUt I shot them A cylinder ful at a time of each load. The more the podwer the smaller the group size. As I shot each cylinder I would just tip the gun up and cases just fell out of the gun. Even at the 21.5 gr load I stopped with.
I stopped becuase of two things. A ragged one hole group at 25 yards and it was too much for me to shoot. The gun didn't mind and I doubt it would have minded anything I put through it. I was the weak link. A pulled the bullets on the heavier loads and settled on a 20.5 gr load of 2400 behind that bullet. It shot to about 3/4 inch 25 y grouops and didn't hurt too much.
This was my hevy load, I shot many more with 8.5 grs of Unique under the same bullet with about the same grouping. With either load I could take woodchucks out to 125 yard easy, at 150 the chuck might have a chance. 175 was kinda iffy.
Leo

I started reloading when I was in JR. High in the mid 1960's.

I have NEVER had ANY problems loading for ANY calibre, in ANY gun when I started at ANY loading books recommended starting load.

Then I work up slowly until I find the best accuracy, while watching for any pressure signs.

Heres what I have done in a 6.5" 454 casull raging bull.

30 grains H110 and 300 grain speer gold dot at 1519 fps.

30.5--- 1504 fps
31 ---- 1501, 1504, 1512, 1495 sticky to eject
31.5--- 1546 sticky
32 ---- 1561 sticky
32.5---1617 stuck!!!

I shot them all because the book listed max at 32.5 and 1700+ fps.

I just went with the 30 grain load and it shot well. I put a scope on it and shot about 4" groups at 100 yards with it. Which is good for me.

Just an fyi the sierra 240 grain bullet meant for the 45 colt will come apart if you try to load them full speed. At least thats what happend in my RB.

Reloading is about practice. My best friend and I self taught ourselves with an old Speer manual when we were 16.