I have 50 new Nickel RP brass that I loaded with 150gr Nosler Partitions. The brass is too tight in my Rem 300WM SS BDL. I can close the bolt but with a lot of effort. I full length resized the brass using Redding dies running the dies down tight then adding � extra turn as recommended in the die directions. I tried 3 once fired Nickel brass that I had full length resized they are also tight. I don't have this problem with regular RP or Winchester after being resized or new factory ammo. Have you experienced the same problem with Nickel and if so what is the remedy short of throwing them in the trash.

Hey Swede, I am attempting to post a previous thread about np brass, I just got my hand out of a coconut shell, so I need to ask JCN if I need to toss all my 300 and 270 WSM NP brass, I've got a bunch because most of the winchester supreme factory loads I like use np cases. I have had some intermittent sticy problems myself with the reloaded NP cases-- I've come to respect John as a knowledgeable person on the forum and he apparently doesn't like NP too much--maybe he was just seeing who would get their hand caught...I would toss my brass if he recommended it--

What about it John?

http://www.accuratereloading.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=776048&page=9&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=21&fpart=1

Hey, hey, hey,
Here is my take on nickel plated cases. I think they are too smooth for the reload and fire cycle that we all run our cases through. If you have two very smooth surfaces, like a resizing die that is well polished from use, and a nickel plated case, you can actually get a higher coefficient of both static and sliding friction.
I think using factory ammo that comes in a nickel plated case is fine. It is especially useful for "safari" type ammunition that might get carried around for weeks, months, or years before getting fired. It is not as likely to corrode in your pocket or ammo carrier.
I think it changes the working characteristics of the brass case a bit, kind of like comparing a loaf of soft bread to one of identical shape, but with a hard crust.
I haven't gotten the micrometer out to measure things, but I wonder if there isn't a greater level of "spring back" when you resize a nickel plated case.
When I resize bottlenecked cases for a hunting rifle I like .002" of sizing on the shoulder. That allows easy chambering without excessive size changes throughout the sizing/reloading/firing cycle. If I had some nickel plated brass that had been fired in my rifle I would measure them after resizing to see if I did get the .002" of set back at the shoulder. It might be necessary to screw the die down a little tighter than with plain brass.
Once the plated brass had been through enough cycles to become work hardened I would pitch it because I'm not sure how to go about annealing it.
It would dull the edge on a brass trimmer's cutter bllade more quickly than plain brass, but those are cheap enough that I wouldn't get too worked up about that issue.
If there is a hard piece of debris between a resizing die wall and a case wall the debris will get embedded in the case wall since the die wall is harder and tougher. Depending on the exact location, with a plated case there is the potential for the piece of debris to score the die wall. If loading plated brass I would make sure everything is very clean.
I'm very comfortable running plated straight walled pistol cases through a carbide sizer die. For the above reasons I'm a bit leery of using plated bottlenecked rifle brass for more than a few cycles.
Looking at a pure brass casing for me is like a jeweler looking at the color, cut, and clarity of a gemstone (or a gastroenterologist looking at a turd). I can tell some things about what is going on in the chamber when the round is fired. The plated brass just doesn't tell me as much.
Until I understand more about plated brass I'll just stick to regular brass that is cleaned, but not highly polished.
Plated brass in the Federal Safari Premium load for the 416 Rigby makes sense to me. Plated brass in the WSM cases doesn't.
JCN
I have (figuratively) gotten my hand stuck in coconuts more than once in my life. The only time that was really bad was when I got my wanker stuck in the girl I married. Yikes! Now I look hard before I poke.

I have never had any problems with nickle brass, none whatsoever, perhaps your chambers are too tight for a hunting rifle...

I particularly like nickle brass for solids as they are readily identifiable from a soft..

Another option is to outside trim the necks..Makes a pretty tri colored round BTW...