Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
One of Us |
On a batch of older brass for a 280 Rem I noticed on the up stroke the expander ball is getting stuck and squeaking as it leaves the neck. I tried using a bore brush and even a drop of oil rior to running them trough and it helped some. I assume the inside of the necks are tarnished. Is there a permanent solution for this? Perry | ||
|
One of Us |
I always tumble before resizing and use Hornady one-shot lube sprayed at a slight angle so a little gets in the neck. Then resize and then wipe each case inside and out before proceeding. No, it is not a fast process. But works for me. | |||
|
One of Us |
Use mica or graphite on the inside of the necks; get a kit for that. It has little brushes for each caliber. And a tray for dipping the case into. Using dry lube, you do not have to clean the cases afterward. Using case lube inside, creates more work. I know, it does work. | |||
|
One of Us |
I like a little lanolin inside my case necks. it helps keep things nice and smooth down the road. to apply it I use a bore mop with a bit of lanolin rubbed in. then I grab a handful of cases and just run the mop in and out. I re-apply a swipe about every 40-50 cases. | |||
|
One of Us |
I use graphite also when I'm neck sizing. It works + requires no cleanup Never mistake motion for action. | |||
|
One of Us |
All the above suggestions will help somewhat. What helps me most in my own case prep is: First, bronze brushing out case necks to remove loose burnt powder residue. I do this on an electric RCBS Prep Center machine where a bronze brush can be screwed onto a revolving station. Second, as per BaxterB, applying Hornady aerosol One Shot Lube, ensuring some goes inside the neck by spraying from at least two directions. I don't clean this out later as it has zero affect on primers or powders. Third, I've changed to Hornady eliptical expander balls on my priming / sizing stem as they draw back through the necks more smoothly without squeaks, chattering etc. I show an example in the attached pic. I also tried Redding's Carbide Expander Ball as this supposedly doesn't require lube but I didn't find it more useful than the standard expander. Hunting.... it's not everything, it's the only thing. | |||
|
One of Us |
Thank you gentlemen! Perry | |||
|
Administrator |
I have a small plastic jar, about an inch deep, and slightly more round. In it are shotgun lead pellets, about size 6. Mixed with Molly powder. I dip the lubed cases in it before sizing them. I think I got that from NECO years ago. Works great to lube the necks. | |||
|
One of Us |
The necks are hard is why they are shrieking Aneal them.....problem solved ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
|
One of Us |
Yes on all three solutions. Anneal, lube necks, elliptical expander. "The liberty enjoyed by the people of these states of worshiping Almighty God agreeably to their conscience, is not only among the choicest of their blessings, but also of their rights." ~George Washington - 1789 | |||
|
One of Us |
I also use a small plastic jar [as described by Saeed above] which was given to me by another AR regular. Works quite well. Not sure if the powder in it is moly powder or fine graphite. After lubing the case, i put the neck in the mixture and stir it around a bit. Sometimes i do anneal, too. the suggestions here tell you what you need to know.... | |||
|
One of Us |
Correct. Anneal them like Ted said.. The tip-off for me was "old batch of brass" Everything else will work but they're crying out for a good annealing job! Zeke | |||
|
one of us |
Bushing die or outside neck turning. | |||
|
One of Us |
I could never get mica to work for me. That squealed like a pig being tortured and the drag was tough. Now I apply a very thin dab of Turtle Wax car polish inside the case neck, size them; all with no noise or grinding. I tumble all my brass after sizing to remove all traces of lube. | |||
|
Moderator |
Posted this before, but I use a spray case lube and usually put the brass in a plastic ice cream tub. I give it a spray then shake a few moments then hold the tub at a 45ish degree angle and gently agitate which makes all the cases line up with the mouths pointing up, then give another shot on the case mouths & agitate one last quick time with a last tiny shot. Takes less to do than to type out. Seems to pretty much eliminate the issue for me. I also for the most part lube cases that go into carbide dies, it reduces the sizing effort noticeably which to me is not a bad thing for the brass. for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside | |||
|
one of us |
I clean all brass first thing, then I use a Lee decapping die in a RCBS 'Little Pal'(It's RCBS's smallest press from 30 years ago) Then I resize using Redding dies with the expander punch / what ever it's called removed. I expand the case neck using a Lyman 'M' die then the case is tumbled again ready to priming.. P.S. Life is simpler if you are using Co-Ax press. 0 "Whensoever the General Government assumes undelegated powers, its acts are unauthoritative, void, and of no force." --Thomas Jefferson | |||
|
one of us |
Most all the suggestions work, another is to use Imperial die wax, dampen your finger ever so lightly and wipe it across the case mouth lightly, use very very little, on about every 10th round or whenever it needs another wipe..sometimes just one wipe in a hundred, play that by ear, don't wipe if its not screaming, wipe when it makes the sound..LOts of methods, some make for more work, some are very easy and don't slow down the process.. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
|
one of us |
I just use one shot. it made life a lot easier for resizing | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia