I'm just getting started reloading and I'm kind of overwhelmed by all the different choices. I will be starting out reloading 22-250 for a bolt action rifle. Do I need 2 die set or 3? Do I need to worry just about neck sizing or the whole cartridge? I'm not looking to roll through thousands of rounds I just want accuracy.

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I'm just getting started reloading

Then I suggest you get a standard 2-die set from RCBS.

It will do about anything that needs to be done and as you gain finness you might want to neck size only at a later date.

Just get started and learn the basics!

You'll need a 2 die set. If you're just starting out in reloading I would suggest that it would probably best if you follow standard procedure and full length size your fired brass. Once you're comfortable with handloading basics, then you can move on to partial full length sizing and/or neck sizing.

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Originally posted by craigster:
You'll need a 2 die set. If you're just starting out in reloading I would suggest that it would probably best if you follow standard procedure and full length size your fired brass. Once you're comfortable with handloading basics, then you can move on to partial full length sizing and/or neck sizing.

Hugely good advice here..

Don

The grossly tapered case body of the 22-250 Rem, along with it's 65K max SAAMI pressure, results in frequent case length trimming. To help solve this problem I'd buy the RCBS X-sizer die. X die instructions

For the accuracy part, I'd buy the competition seater made by Forster.

Those 2 dies would be all you need to produce accurate ammo for your boltgun and make your cases last as long as possible.

You will do well with a conventional two die set for now. There's no point in complicating the learning process.

Brand of tools, especially dies, really won't matter. Personal objections not withstanding, all dies are made to SAAMI standards on the inside and that's where the work is done. On average, there is little or no difference at all between brands. Spending more for common dies only gets you a prettier exterior. Accuracy comes from good loading methods much more than any brand of tools!

A third die can be either a neck sizer or crimper. Or both? Anyway, you won't need a crimper and a neck die does little for accuracy.

How you resize will do a lot for case life. IF your Full Length sizer is adusted correctly. If you FL size properly, your brass will likely last a long time. Set the sizer to barely move the case shoulder back enough to allow smooth, no force, chambering of the sized cases and you will have very little stretching. I rarely trim my 22-250 brass and I don't have an "X" die.

Actually, all the X die does is sorta hide the case stretching but it can't really stop it from happening. If you over resize your brass, even with the X die, you WILL get stretched case walls and that's the bad part.

With proper FL sizing, I get 6-8 (hot) reloads from common 22-250 Fed/Rem/Win brass. But, when I use a neck die most of the time AND also neck anneal them, properly, after every 5-8 reloads. Then I can get from 15 to 20 reloads from them but the annealing does more good than the die.

Most of my cases "fail" from eventual neck splits, sometimes from body splits, and a few get loose primer pockets. But I do NOT get dangerous head seperations!

All you need do is keep from over-sizing your brass and that will prevent a lot of other problems.

Sizing as the "die instructions" say, that is basically to jam the case as far into the sizer as possible, you can be sure your ammo will chamber in any rifle but you will almost certainly be moving the shoulders back too far for work best in YOUR chamber!

The suggestion to get a Forster BR seater is a good one. I love them but they actually won't make a massive difference...I think you will do better with a standard die set for mow and for quite awhile down the road. In a couple of years - or more - after you've learned to squeeze out all the accuracy potential of your first dies, you may want to try something more exotic.

Forster and Redding also make very good dies. A 2-die set is all you need to get started.

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Originally posted by Jim C. <><:
With proper FL sizing, I get 6-8 (hot) reloads from common 22-250 Fed/Rem/Win brass. But, when I use a neck die most of the time AND also neck anneal them, properly, after every 5-8 reloads. Then I can get from 15 to 20 reloads from them but the annealing does more good than the die.

If you read my clicky pointing to the X-sizer die instructions, RCBS points out that their X die can be used as a normal full length sizer die as well. But as I have no experience using an X die, I'll defer to your personal involvement. RCBS is well thought of on this forum, except for some recent rumors of china made products, and I have not heard of any criticism of the X-sizer on this or any other forums I frequent.

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Originally posted by Verno88:
I'm just getting started reloading and I'm kind of overwhelmed by all the different choices. I will be starting out reloading 22-250 for a bolt action rifle. Do I need 2 die set or 3? Do I need to worry just about neck sizing or the whole cartridge? I'm not looking to roll through thousands of rounds I just want accuracy.

I guess my question to you is have you bought a reloading manual yet? All the good manuals have whole sections on reloading technique and theory. I would suggest that you read those sections first, then come back and ask questions, it will help you understand some of the answers you’ll get on this forum. I don’t care which manual you buy (buy 2 if you can). Hornady, Lyman, Nosler, Speer, Sierra are good. Just read it, then read it again.

Don’t assume that every or any answer you get here is good for you.

I'll second the recommendation for a Forster standard set to satisfy your interest in accuracy. You pay more, but you get first quality dies that have advanced design. The seating die has an alignment sleeve that will reduce run-out. The sizing die is also a better design with a high-mounted sizing button to reduce neck distortion. Other mfr's standard dies don't share these features.

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Originally posted by MickinColo:

quote:

Originally posted by Verno88:
I'm just getting started reloading and I'm kind of overwhelmed by all the different choices. I will be starting out reloading 22-250 for a bolt action rifle. Do I need 2 die set or 3? Do I need to worry just about neck sizing or the whole cartridge? I'm not looking to roll through thousands of rounds I just want accuracy.

I guess my question to you is have you bought a reloading manual yet? All the good manuals have whole sections on reloading technique and theory. I would suggest that you read those sections first, then come back and ask questions, it will help you understand some of the answers you’ll get on this forum. I don’t care which manual you buy (buy 2 if you can). Hornady, Lyman, Nosler, Speer, Sierra are good. Just read it, then read it again.

Don’t assume that every or any answer you get here is good for you.

I would recommend having 2 reloading manuals at minimum. Also you may want to ask around your local shooting ranges or here on AR to see if anyone in your area loads. Having a mentor is a huge help. Just remember that anything seen here or told to you should be taken with a grain of salt. You need to use your judgement on what is good advice and what may be BS.

I second the above comment about loading manuals. I'd recommend you get at least 2 different ones with one of them being the Sierra manual. After reading through them at least twice, I'd say you could then go for the dies.
I personally prefer Forster dies and my seaters are their competition styles. Do I really need those? The answer is "no", I don't for a hunting rifle. I use them simply because I'm more anal about seating depth than I need to be. For seating depth adjustment, I find the Forester's to be the easiest to read the witness marks. BTW, not to confuse more but seat your bullets to the ogive and not to the OAL. Just my comments & good luck.
Bear in Fairbanks

My father taught me the basics and it went from there. I am a firm believer in at least two manuals. I have found Lyman manuals and Sierra to be the most helpful for me.

As for dies, since you are starting out RCBS or Redding I think are most accessable, at least where I live it is. I like both and I lean a little more toward the Redding because I like the adjustments better.

The Lyman book has good instructions in it and was my first manual.

Good luck and be safe.

quote:

Originally posted by MickinColo:
I guess my question to you is have you bought a reloading manual yet? All the good manuals have whole sections on reloading technique and theory. I would suggest that you read those sections first, then come back and ask questions, it will help you understand some of the answers you’ll get on this forum. I don’t care which manual you buy (buy 2 if you can). Hornady, Lyman, Nosler, Speer, Sierra are good. Just read it, then read it again.

Don’t assume that every or any answer you get here is good for you.

ABC's of Reloading is an excellent book. It is lacking in load data, but is written well to describe the loading process.

Another good book is Modern Reloading by Righard Lee. Lee is opinionated, but his discussions will keep you learning for years.

Remember, only believe half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for what you get from the internet.

Do your own independent, confirming research when ANYONE gives you new facts on the web.

Also remember, even the idiotic stuff might have a kernel of truth buried in there somewhere.

Lost Sheep

Get at LEAST 2 manuals and READ them as if you are studying for a test. Then reread the reloading procedures sections again. I've been reloading for 30 yrs and I still learn something every time I open one of the 6 I have. You can also get info on which powders (generally) work better and reduce the costs of attempting a shot in the dark. AND lastly--DO NOT get in a hurry.

Start with standard basic tools. Since you're starting from scratch, consider paying a little extra for Forster or Redding dies.

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RCBS points out that their X die can be used as a normal full length sizer die as well. But as I have no experience using an X die, I'll defer to your personal involvement. RCBS is well thought of on this forum, except for some recent rumors of china made products, and I have not heard of any criticism of the X-sizer

It seems you missread the point of my comment on the X die.

I wasn't disparaging it at all. Only meant to point out that while it certainly does help control the need for case trimming it cannot prevent cases being stretched at the web IF the FL sizing is done excessively. In that respect, the X die is no different from any other FL size die, it just hides the stretching.

I have and use a good bit of RCBS loading tools and generally like them. In fact, I have a wide range of brands in my loading room. But, I'm not blindly loyal to any inanimate object or its box color.

Other makers, all of them, have some very good individual products that I like very much. I'm not fond of everything made by ANY maker but my lack of fondness doesn't mean the tools won't do a good enough job. (Some folks seem compelled to diaparage anything they don't like as "junk". That's silly.)