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I am just starting to get into reloading and I have read a few manuals. Some seem to say you should ALWAYS crimp ammo for an autoloader , like a .45 ACP in a 1911 . Some say you should NEVER crimp a case that headspaces on the case mouth like a .45 ACP in a 1911 . Whats up with that ?? | ||
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| one of us |
quote:......IN auto calibers for use in semi auto the taper crimp works better than the standard roll crimp for most guns....the 45auto in a properly fitted barrel/extractor actually doesn't headspace on the mouth as much as by the extractor.....according to some test that I have READ and from experience with several different auto types and rounds.....there are several different "brand name" type crimp dies available wtih names such as profile crimp and others but they all work much the same by crimping to hold the bullet without the deep curl in of the standard type roll crimp and case trim length is still important to get consistant results and accuracy but a little more forgiving than some roll/standard crimp dies......a little experiment with the taper crimp will let you get good bullet retension and good fuction without bullet setback in the 9mm and 45autos that I have shot/loaded for......HTH...good luck and good shooting!! | |||
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| one of us |
For most pistol reloading you will have to slightly "bell" the mouth in order to seat the bullet, most especially if you are using lead bullets. This belling has to be reduced back to straight-wall dimensions, but in an autoloader (or any action with a rimless pistol case such as a revolver or singleshot) the mouth should not be "crimped" in a manner that reduces the diameter of the case mouth to less than that specified by standard case dimensions. Incidentally, there is no extractor on a revolver (like the S & W model 25 or Ruger Blackhawk) to hold the rimless .45 ACP in battery, so it MUST headspace on the case mouth. | |||
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