I recently picked up a HK P2000 in 40 S&W. A friend stopped by and gave me about 500 pieces of new brass along with 500, 180gr jacketed flat-nosed bullets made by Zero. Is anyone familiar with these bullets and/or reloading data for them? With all the warnings about reloading 40 S&W I’m beginning to feel embarrassed about not researching this before I bought one. I’ve been reloading for over 30 years but can’t remember ever seeing a cartridge that had so much “Voodoo†attached to it. I looked in the Sierra manual and their 180gr accuracy load is 4.6gr of Clays. In just about every other place, it seems that is about .5 grains over maximum. My bud also gave me 2000 180gr flat-nosed cast bullets (can’t remember name brand) and I’d hate like hell to trash them all because I can’t find data that supports a “safety range band†of powders where I can start. Also, it confuses me as to the supported and non-supported chamber concerns where it always says “Ask your…,†Hasn’t anyone come up with a list of which pistols are and aren’t? Okay, I’ve got it, Glocks aren’t, any others? Thanks for the help.

I don't have any lists or any specific advice for your pistol, but my CZ 75 in 40 S&W hasn't been any different to reload than my .45 ACP, or my 7,65mm Browning. Use the same caution you would reloading any new-to-you caliber. CZ's have normal cut rifling and ramped barrel/support chamber.

Col, this is real simple remove you barrel and place a loaded round in the chamber, is there a portion of the case that is not supported by the barrel/chamber? If not load it like any other, if there is then you just shoot factory. Another way to tell is to look at the fired brass from your pistol, if there is a bulge near the base in a portion of the circumfrence then you have a chamber that does not fully supprt the case..

As for the 180 grain bullets they'll run under 1000 fps so no nead to avrry loading levels if the bullets are decent cast bullets. Power pistol is a great .40S&W powder.

The web of a 40S&W case is .180" thick.
Typical barrels, such as my old Glock, have case support over the feed ramp at .235" from the breech, leaving .055" of thin case wall unsupported.

The SAAMI drawing for 40sw cartridge is .419"-.424", while the drawing on the chamber is .4274"-.4314".
This permits up to .0124" of clearance side to side at the base of the cartridge in the chamber.

My old Glock had a chamber that was even wider than SAAMI spec.
If I overloaded with ~35% more powder than max book load with once fired brass, I would get case bulges.

So I TIG welded over the chamber and re cut the chamber and feed ramp to have case support at .180".

Now, despite the fact I have over heated the metallurgy of the chamber, I can shoot loads of over 100% extra powder: 15.5 gr 800X, 200 gr, 1.125". [max load for 44 mag is 15.5 gr 800X, 200 gr 1.610"]

The kabooms you read about with the case blowing out down the feed ramp were with worn out brass. Shot in a sloppy chamber and resized over and over.

The kabooms you read about with split barrels were not done with some 44 mag load, it takes more pressure than that; stuck bullet in bore, double charges with a peaky powder, firing out of battery, etc.


What does it all mean?
a) There is nothing wrong with the 40sw design.
b) There is nothing wrong with the Glock design.
c) Some sloppy Glocks were made, but still had safety margin.
d) Beware of worn out brass.
e) There are so many 40sw pistols out there, operator error causes mysteries.

I have a Witness in .40 S&W and .357 Sig and haven't had any problems at all. I even used some once fired .40 S&W cases resized to .357 Sig while i was waiting on my new Sig brass to come in. I think most of the problems and scares come from Glock pistols. I had a G22 that I carried for the Sheriffs Dept back home and shot it with reloads(except duty rounds) most of the times with no problems but I didn't load it hot either.

Steve E.........

I have five 40 S&W pistols (2 CZs, a SIG 229, and FireStar, and one built on a 1911).

Nothing special about loading for the 40 S&W. I would taper crimp or factory crimp for it.

Have seen Glock fired (square firing pin imprint) bulged cases at the range.

Have noted that hot ammo comes out of the jug of the SIG and FireStar being more expanded than out of the other three.

DO NOT press the max load of the 40 S&W in anything short of a 1911 built racegun! You do not want to have a high pressure cartridge case cut loose on you. I've seen it in 45 ACP which is a low pressure round ... and it would not be pretty in a high pressure round.

like mstarling i don't know how many 40's i've got (somewhere around 8-12 i think) but don't have trouble with any of them. no vodoo, taper crimp helps feeding alot, but thats also true for most others too

quote:

Originally posted by Planemech:
Col, this is real simple remove you barrel and place a loaded round in the chamber, is there a portion of the case that is not supported by the barrel/chamber? If not load it like any other, if there is then you just shoot factory. Another way to tell is to look at the fired brass from your pistol, if there is a bulge near the base in a portion of the circumfrence then you have a chamber that does not fully supprt the case..

As for the 180 grain bullets they'll run under 1000 fps so no nead to avrry loading levels if the bullets are decent cast bullets. Power pistol is a great .40S&W powder.

VERY GOOD ADVICE. I'm liking my Sigs in a 40 with the power pistol and have worked up some hum dinger loads for it with the Power Pistol powder. I was lucky and took a small mule deer buck a couple of years ago at approximately 40 yards with a 155 grain loading.

I've been loading for the 40s&w since it came out. There is really no diff. loading it vs any other service round. Many shooters, particularly Glock shooters, get into trouble using unerfast powders like Clays, BE or TG & then running them @ max. A bullet setback can cause a catastrophic failure. Stick to mid range burn rate powders, don't try to make it a 10mm & you'll be fine. I run nothing but handoads in my USP & 4006. There are so many diff. lead bullet designs floating around, tough to find exact data for them all.
Just pick data for a lead bullet of the approproate rate, start low & work your load up. I load to the longest OAL that will function in the pistol & then start working up the powder charges. A chron helps.

Load like normal without trying to get crazy and you should be fine. Lots of good advice given here already. Beware of the "sky is falling" folks on the Glock issues. They mostly rely on articles and research from 8-10 years ago. My Glock 35 is just as supported as my CZ.

Zero bullets are very good and extensivly used by USPSA shooters.
Most USPSA/IPSC shooters who use .40S&W in Standard/Limited division, prefers 180gr and fast powders like VV N320. I loaded a few thousand for my SVI, but my loads were long so they won't help you.
For a lot of loading data, you should check Brian Enos' 40/10mm reloading forum at http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=73
Just remember to check the OAL they've used. Loads for S_I are often around 1.70".

Lots of good info above.

I shoot a Glock 23 in .40, and Glock is now on Gen 3 configuration as a platform including full chamber support. The older chambers with more open chamber/feed ramp area for easy feeding of varied ammo created the opportunity for reloading errors to create problems.


I have fired 135 to 180 grain bullets with four different powders at all published load ranges in my G23 with NO issues. Have fun!!

P.S.-Powders- I have used

Universal Clays
Power Pistol
Blue Dot
AA #7

I HIGHLY recommend AA #7 as my favorite powder, especially in a progressive press as it meters flawlessly, like heavy teflon baby powder if that creates the right image. Easily repeats throws at .1 grain accuracy out of my Hornady LnL.

Power Pistol is my least favorite, will not use again as it makes just an ANNOYING amount of flash/bang, completely occludes the target for a second shot- not good at all for competition!