I just shot my first 50 rnds of LSWC laser-cast bullets from my 357 with light to medium loads. The problem is that lead sprayed out between the barrel and the cylinder and is on the outside of the cylinder near each chamber. There is also a little lead in the first inch of the barrel. A little spray on the holoscope rails as well. What is good at getting lead off?

Dave.

Some of those treated cloths (sorry, I don't remember peoduct names, but Remington, Birchwood Casey, and others sell those yellow lead cloths.) do a good job on surfaces - just don't use 'em on blued surfaces that you want to keep blue. (Doesn't help much, does it?) Other than that, solvent, a brass/bronze brush, and elbow grease. LEM makes a cute tool for dragging lead from the bore, but a bit of copper wool (like an opened-up dishwashing pad) wrapped around a bore brush works great.

But you can avoid all this by using properly sized bullets at proper pressures. I used to have problems like that, but no more. The bullets should match your chamber mouths. If you mean bullets from Oregon Trail when you say "laser cast," those bullets are too hard for light and medium loads.

[This message has been edited by JimmyDee (edited 04-12-2002).]

Is the timing of your revolver off? Spitting a lot of lead?

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RAB

I'm inclined to question things like Dag? From your description of the load, I am surprised you have this problem. It could be timing, poorly sized bullets, forcing cone in the barrel. Get the gun to a good gunsmith if you know one and have him do a quick visual. Something seems fishy here.

Use "Soft Gas Checks" sheet-wax in your ammo, and to get leeading out or reduced, use this stuff in half a dozen target-velocity loads, plinking. Works. Better get some right way though: I understand that with the new postal increase the vendors are going to raise prices a little.

Paladin

Use a softer bullet.

A swaged bullet, or one cast from straight wheelweight, will obturate to fill the bore and chamber throats of handguns.

A hardcast bullet will not obturate, thus allowing flame cutting and degradation of the bullet.

To remove the lead, try a lead remover cloth from Birchwood Casey if your revolver is stainless. If not, then get a new "tornado" brush, and rub it back and forth on the lead deposit. These work very well to cut lead from the bore, too.

To fully remove lead from the bore, use a Lewis Lead remover. Works great.

Thanks for all the good info.

Powderman, unfortunately I have a 1000 of these oregon trail laser-cast bullets to use up. I'm thinking like you and JimmyDee that the load may be too light for the hard bullet (oregon trail says these have a BH of 24) and the hot gases are blowin' by the bullet and meltin' solder which gets spewed out around the cylinder and bore. I'm using winchester 231. Is that powder to fast/hot? Should I use a slower powder? Anyone have good luck with lead bullets in a .357 and want to share load data?

Dave.

I would first check the items mentioned in the previous posts. Here are a couple of .357 loads that I use. For target/plinking loads I shoot .38 specials. Remember these are safe in my guns, but may not be in yours. Start from below and work up.

.357 Mag
125 grain JHP 17.5 gr. of Alliant 2400
158 grain cast SWC 15.0 gr. of Alliant 2400

.38 Special
158 grain cast SWC 4.5 gr. of Alliant Unique

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"If it ain't a 45/70, it's just a passing fad"

I have shot about 10000 rds of OT Lazer-Casts in .357 and 44 mag. When using these bullets I have found that you do need to step up the speed a little, but not a lot. I shoot a lot, so I keep my loads in the medium range, and use the same companies loading manual as a guide. I use a lot of Titegroup, some Unique, and a little 2400. All shoot well in 357. But I also use 231 and Bullseye sucessfully, in 38 sp. Above advice all good, slug your chambers with a pure lead roundball first. Luck, Chuck

Last night I bought some of the yellow lead wipe off cloths. worked great on the stainless! shooters choice took care of the bore fouling.

the ends of the cylinders mic out to be .358 on all six so that seems ok. i'm shooting these single action so i don't think that timing is a problem. this is a spanking new 686 powerport so all is tite and lined up.

i'm gonna load some hotter 231 and i bought some unique last night to try as well. the loads i made with 231 chrono'd at around 1100 fps. maybe that is too slow for hard lead. there was tons! of smoke and lots of soot on the outside of the gun. could this be lube burning?

anyway, i'm still experimenting to find the right combo.

d.

Warddc, Have been thinking more about your problem since you e-mailed me. First, I don't use the powders you do with the 357 mag. I use them with the 38 sp loads. I think that this is appropriate, and supported by the loading manuals. Then I thought a little more and realized that my original premise may be wrong. To wit, why would I think I needed to step up the 357 mag loads, yet continue to use .38 special loads sometimes. The .38 spec. loads clearly are slower and possess less energy. I am beginning to think that either you have a problem with the forcing cone or with your expectations. Shooting lead bullets is NOT as clean as shooting jacketed bullets. Ussually lead spitting is a sign of poor timing, but you have not mentioned getting burned by spitting, so I think that you are not cursed with this problem. Dirty, on the other hand, has a lot to do with bullet lubes. Just part of the deal! I would keep on shooting and worry about it only when the gun needs cleaned. Don't let the bore get a large build-up of lead, like starting to occlude the barrel. I would direct further questions to the Oregon Trail Tech support folks, @1-541-523-4697.Hope this helps ease your mind, Chuck

chuckd,

The problem is fixed! I thank you all for you inputs. Simply switching from 6.3 gr of Win 231 to 6.5 gr of Unique did the trick. The unique pushes the oregon trail laser-cast lead out with absolutely no leading or lead spattering on the cylinder plus it is MUCH cleaner. Only a little smoke and no lube burning. I think that the 231 was too hot and too quick. I loaded up and shot 150 rnds last night with Unique and the gun and bullets performed well. A few strokes with a brass brush and a patch or two was all that was necessary to clean up the bore any fouling on the cylinders was simply wiped off with a cloth.

Dave.

I was away from this thread for a few days. As I was reading through and learned that you were loading W231 in 357Magnum I thought, "Uh-oh!"
You made the right move: Unique performs well for light Magnum loads. I'm thinking 6.8gr Unique for 158gr SWC almost makes 1100fps nicely.

Dave, Glad to hear that you fixed your problem! Today as I was supposedly working, was thinking more about your problem. As I had previously stated, I do not use 231 in magnum loads and do in .38 special loads--And then it hit me---but it did you too. Yes , heat is the problem in this very fast powder. That coupled with beveled base bullets, which provide a place for all that heat to start making solder--- Someday I would suggest you try Hodgden Titegroup, has been excellent in my .357's. Have fun with that 686--they are fine revolvers, even though my favorite .357 is a Ruger GP-100. Later, Chuck

lead is good!

The 686 is barkin' now. With 6.5 gr of Unique I'm chrono'in the avg velocity at 1140 fps. ChuckD, I'm gonna give Titegroup a try here in a week or two.

I like to use the firewood from the woodpile as targets for the .357. Ya stand em on end and knock em down at 30 yds. Kinda like bowling pins. Endless supply of targets. When your done shootin' ya burn em in the campfire. (not in the woodstove don't want any stray lead in the stove).

D.