I will be loading for a bolt 308 real soon. It has been my understanding that you should just bump the shoulder back 1 or 2 thousanths after a cartridge has been fired from your gun. Not sure if neck sizing bumps the shoulder or does just what it says. Very confused about the idea that I'm sure is very simple. Not sure on how to do it. Thank you all for your expertise.

Actually, you do not always have to bump the shoulder back! If your loads are not at the extreme upper end, neck sizing works quite well. With a cartridge like the .308, just follow basic proceedures and enjoy the accuracy.

I took a new CZ .308 to the range for break in this week using 2 boxes of Federal Powershock ammo.

Last night, I reloaded with 168 gr. Speer Gold Match bullets using my new LEE collet and seating dies.

We measured the run out on a Sinclair gauge and most were in the 0.002" range and 0.003" on a few.

My friend, who is very compulsive and experienced, was very impressed with the quality of these reloads.

No case lube --saved time too.

jdel, the trouble with info gathered in bits often doesn't make sense, so you need a good reloading manual, probably more than one.
Eventually one will cover what you need to know.

With sizing, YOU can decide to Neck size, FLSize, or Partial FLS. And Neck sizing can be the normal method, or the Lee collet die method.

The only time the shoulder needs moving back is when you have trouble chambering your reloads.
This is best discovered by checking some empty cases you've fired. If they go in empty they should go in when reloaded if done properly.

Some of us decide not to neck size, and PFLS, which is when a too tight case is just FLSized enough to chamber. If this is done right the brass is the same each reload and doesn't get over worked. How many mills back that happens to be doesn't matter to me. (I always thought I was just squeezing the case head area down a bit.) If the shoulder is still touching the chamber when the case fits, who cares.

Some brass is fired with quite a loose fit, like factory ammo, and some are fired with a firm fit. All should go bang.

I have always neck sized but once in a while the brass will need to be sized more and then PFL or even FL is needed.
That is a big problem with the Lee collet dies. They should include a regular sizer in the kit.
Same holds true for using brass in another gun, the Lee collet will not work. If that is what you use, you should also have another die set.
I have that problem with the 30-06 I load for a friend. I don't have a 30-06 of my own and he bought the Lee dies. Now I need another die set and don't want to spend my own money for them. I have to convince him to buy more dies.

I've gone to keeping two sizing dies for each caliber on hand. One die is set to PFLR and the other is setup to FL resize. Yes, it's extra money but once their setup, no further adjustment is needed. The PFLR die for my .270 WSM is set to move the shoulder back 0.002" and the FL die is adjusted to move the shoulder to the dimensions on an unfired factory round. I used the Stoney Point (now Hornady?) head & shoulders headspace gauges.
I found that in my WSM, a fired case measures 1.755" to the datum line. An unfired factory factory case measures 1.751" to the datum line. The PFLR die is set to move the shoulder to 1.753" and the FL die is set to put it at the factory spec of 1.751".
Since you're just starting out, I'd suggest that you stick with FL sizing until you have a bit of experience under your belt - it'll be a lot less confusing. This is just what I do.
Bear in Fairbanks

Thank you guys very much. You all just cleared things up for me about neck sizing. apreciate all the help, get ready for more questions in the future.

quote:

Originally posted by bfrshooter:
I have always neck sized but once in a while the brass will need to be sized more and then PFL or even FL is needed.
That is a big problem with the Lee collet dies. They should include a regular sizer in the kit.
Same holds true for using brass in another gun, the Lee collet will not work. If that is what you use, you should also have another die set.
I have that problem with the 30-06 I load for a friend. I don't have a 30-06 of my own and he bought the Lee dies. Now I need another die set and don't want to spend my own money for them. I have to convince him to buy more dies.

Hello!
Not necessarily... I just purchased a Lee Collet die, along with a Redding Body die for .223 Rem. Using these two dies in combination (Body first, Lee 2nd), I can get the "best of both worlds" and have full-length sized brass that will work in either of my .223 rifles, combined with the EXCELLENT lack of runout that comes from the Lee Collet die. I highly recommend this method... I am averaging 0.001 or less of runout with EVERY case I size, without the drawbacks of neck-only sized brass.
I've learned that when it comes to reloading, there is ALWAYS something new to learn if you keep your eyes and mind open... and I've been doing this for over 20 years now!