I started to dink with moly'd bullets for one of my rifles but the reduction in pressures ran me over powder capacity without recovering my velocity and, because I shoot a variety of bullets (most non-moly) I began to get layering in the barrel. So, to hell with it...

What product will completely rid my bore and remaining bullets of the moly?

Thanks all!

I did the same with moly in a .280 bore. I used "NAPA" brand carburator cleaner to get it out with a bore brush and patches. Someone else recommended "Easy Off" oven cleaner. Make sure you clean your barrel with rifle solvent and run an oil patch down the bore when you're finished.

Snowcat. I tried that damn stuff once and after spending several hours pouring naptha, acetone, Sweets and everything else I could think of down the barrel, I vowed never to use a moly coated bullet again. Get some carburator cleaner, four bronze brushes, and reserve about four hours of your time.

If I need more speed, I'll buy a bigger (faster) caliber.

I shoot moly in some of my rifles and not in others. Only once did I change from moly bullets to naked bullets.
Here's how I cleaned the bore of moly:
Clean well with any good copper solvent and tight bronze brush to remove copper and carbon. Some moly will also be removed. Then short-stroke several patches with JB through the bore and follow with several patches wet with solvent.
Any moly that is left after this treatment will be removed by the subsequent shooting of naked bullets. IMO moly wears right off the bore if non-moly bullets are used.
I did not have a bore scope to check the bore after this cleaning but have never had a problem converting back to non-moly bullets either.
VH

To remove moly, buy a product called "Moly Magic" (I think) from Bore Tech. This is the only way I know to remove ALL the moly. It's easy to use, too. The product is made expressly for this purpose.

Russ

How about removing moly from bullets? I have washed them in lacquer thinner while rubbing them with #0000 steel wool. This seems to do it but is slow. If I had it to do all over again I don't think I would use moly even though I've had no big problems. I have 2 barrels that copper foul through the moly and one of them takes about 8-12 shots to settle down after getting the copper out.

snowcat - I have shot moly for over 7 years in my LR varmint and target rifles. There is nothing particularly difficult about removing moly as long as you do it properly. Otherwise you can scrub till the cows come home and not remove all the moly. One thing is for sure, moly must be chemically removed from the bore, it will not simply wear away over time. As you have found, moly is not something to �dink� around with. You will find more problems than you can imagine...

Here is one way to remove moly. (The process is used by many competitive bench shooters using premium barrels.)

Before you start cleaning, use a gun vice, always use a bore guide, and use a one piece coated cleaning rod.

1. Soak the bore for several hours with a powder/carbon solvent like Butch�s Bore Shine, Hoppe�s, Shooters Choice, or Kroil. Soak a new bronze brush in solvent and make 15 passes (no short stroke).

2. Push a solvent patch down the barrel. Do not scrub. Continue clean patches till no powder fouling is present.

3. If the powder fouling was very heavy, I will repeat steps 1 & 2. Copper fouling will generally come out with moly. Butch�s Bore Shine will remove any residual copper, however, if the barrel was properly broken in with moly, ammonia based solvently are generally not needed - i.e. Sweets does not seem to remove moly any quicker.

4. Using an old brush, wrap a patch with a small amount JB Bore Paste on it. Make a minimum of 10 passes completely down the bore. (Do not short stroke or scrub the bore with JB!)

5. Follow with several Kroil soaked patches to remove fouling and JB. A flood of BreakFree followed by a few more patches will ensure all the JB is out of the bore.

6. At this point you have removed all lose moly (90 - 95%). The only moly that remains is what has been burnished into the bore. To remove this, you must break the molecular bond. To do this, products like Moly Magic, Butch�s Bore Shine, Kroil will complete the process. Moly Magic is the quickest, and Kroil is the slowest.

7. Soak the bore with one of the solvents in step 6. Let sit for an hour or more (sometimes over night). Scrub using several rounds with tight solvent patch with short strokes. Continue soak and scrub steps. The longer you allow the solvent to soak the easier the moly bond will be broken.

This method while long, will �safely� remove all traces of moly from your bore. Bore scope inspection confirms this method works with minimal abrasive contact. ANY moly left in your bore will adversely affect accuracy. Moly is not something to experiment with - your either make a commitment to shoot it or you should avoid it. It is a wonderful thing if used properly and a nightmare if you don�t.

Zero Drift.....I believe your method of moly removal will work but I gotta question your description of Kroil as a "powder/carbon solvent"
Kroil is not a solvent it is a penetrating oil.

Lightnin~
Of course you are absolutely correct, but Kroil does do a great job of removing powder and carbon residue.

First let me clearly state - this is not "my" method for removing moly. This process has been developed over a period of years by lots of competition shooters. It is widely accepted as the standard for cleaning moly.

Secondly, I realize that Kroil calls itself a �penetrating� oil. However, if I remember correctly from Chemistry 101, oil is a hydrocarbon and it will dissolve (bring into solution) carbon. In any event, it �works� on carbon as Bob338 pointed out. Sorry for any confusion...

What about the bullets?

Thanks to all for the help--I am usually not prone to jumping on bandwagons (though I've fallen off a few!) but looks like I'm starting over on this rifle. The detailed clean up method was great, I'll do it as soon as I gather the required components. I'm just scotch enough to not want to toss the box of moly bullets I still have--can you soak them in solvent without ruining them? Likely not worth the effort. I'll prob. just stack them with those blue coated wonders that will not group worth a damn for me.