I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this:

I've been reloading for 4 years or so. For case lube during FL resizing, I always used the old school method with the roll pad, with some RCBS lube sprayed on it, then I hand rolled the cases on it, and then twisted/dragged the case mouth across the pad. Everything worked fine. A little messy. Used it from 243 Win all the way to 404 & 458 WM.

About a month ago I tried the Hornady spray lube - place all the case in a tray and spray them at once. Holy Smokes Batman! What I have been missing! SOOOOOO much easier on FL resizing, quicker, and a lot less mess. I was sold. I did probably 500-600 rounds recently with this method.

Well, I went to FL resize some 404 and 458 WM brass yesterday with the spray. I thought I was going to get a case stuck in the die. It was horrible. Tried more and less spray lube, nope. So for these cases, I went back to the RCBS spray lube and roll pad. Perfect, no issue.

Has anyone else ever experience this issue with big bore brass and lube you spray directly on the case?

Thanks!

BTW - I clean every single case in my ultrasonic cleaner after resizing/rimming/chamfering. And then rinse and blow dry with 100 psi air. I don't trust the "wipe off method" or that claim Hornady makes saying its spray doesn't contaminate powder or primers.

I load a lot of big bores and only use Hornsby lube in the little tub put on with fingers. I don't recommend spray. Too much solvent.

If you really want a stuck case continue using Hornady One Shot.

I'd suggest Imperial Sizing Wax.

I ended up with a stuck case in my 338 Win Mag die using the Hornady One shot. I had to use a dremel tool with a pad and flitz to remove the streaks of brass from the inside of a 30-06 die too.

I now use Imperial sizing wax. I do have a tub of the Hornady version of the wax, I just haven't tried it yet.

I use Redding or Imperial Wax. I push the case neck lightly in the wax, then wipe it off against the rest of the neck and stop a few millimeters from the shoulder.
By pushing the case neck in the wax you slightly lube the inside of the case neck. This is sufficient to lube the expander ball on the decapping rod. It allows smooth running in and out. Then I lightly dash my index finger in the wax and wipe it off on the case body. This works well with Lee, RCBS, Lyman and Foster Sizer Dies. However, Redding dies require much more thorough lube on the inside of the case neck. The wax above is not sticky and it wash off quickly with a little bit of soapy water after sizing cases.

I'm not impressed at all with One Shot.

Thanks

I have some sizing wax I used for my Innovative Technologies Belted Mag Collet Resizing Die. Works great. Will try on the cases as well.

Biggest mistake with one shot is that most don't allow enough time for it to completely dry.
My one and only experience with it was the first and only run of stuck cases I ever encountered.
My buddy wanted me to size his cases to fit his rifle, he showed up with his supply of once fired factory, but, no rifle. Anyway, he said he wanted to try this spray lube, so, I let him spray the cases, and he proceeded to hand me a case, I put it in the press, 3/4 way in goes tighter than any case I ever sized, pulled back on handle, rim tore off, wtf?
In all, 8 cases got stuck before I read the bottle to discover the lube had to be DRY before use.

As to sizing big bores, I use 100% bees wax for all my sizing, including case forming and bullet swaging. It is simply the same as Imperial and others. Never had a stuck case yet, even with my 338/416 Rigby Improved, it makes my RockChucker Supreme groan when sizing that one. Funny, my 505 Gibbs goes in and out as if it weren't being sized at all.

Cheers.

I must be doing something wrong, like following the instructions! I have reloaded thousands of rounds from 5.56 thru 500 AR, including most of the big bores in between. The closest I have come to a problem, was on my 450/400 3", I left a bit much on the long sloping neck and got some small dents I learned to give them a quick wipe with a rag before resizing. If you apply the spray from two angles while in the tray,it works perfectly. Shake the can well, spray cases well, give it a minute or so to dry, and get er done! p.S. The instructions also recommend giving the inside of the resizing die a spritz before getting started.

quote:

Biggest mistake with one shot is that most don't allow enough time for it to completely dry

+1. I don't like Hornady One-Shot Case Lube as it is very viscous and clogs up the case collator. I have only used it for straight-wall cases when sizing is an issue (seems like about once a year, my 9x19 cases decide to fight being sized), and MUCH prefer Lee case lube dissolved in water, Frankford arsenal spray lube, or Dillon spray lube. All need to be applied and allowed to sit for a couple of minutes at least.

I have only been loading bottleneck cases for just over 40 years.
1) RCBS pad has never caused me any problem--worked perfect from day one. I therefore haven't experimented with other methods as you can't beat perfection, so why try?
2) Never, ever, lubed a case mouth. I read about people who need to and such, but I have never had an issue and wouldn't do it unless there was a real issue. If there was, I would would use ONLY dry lube (micro ground mica or graphite powder) and not any type of oil or find a better expander button.
So, are you lubing the case neck to prevent a problem you have never had, and possibly causing a new problem?

I've been loading for almost 50 years and have been using a roll pad the entire time. Started out using die lube that was sold by C-H at the time. It worked well. Then I read somewhere that most of the case lube was nothing more than STP oil treatment. Tried some and darned if it didn't work exactly like the lube I had been using only the STP was 1/10 the price.
I have always been reluctant to use a lube on the inside of the case necks that could affect the powder or the ability of the case neck to hold the bullet firmly. At the very least you create another job of having to clean the case necks after sizing. A little bit of powdered graphite applied to the inside of the case neck with a Q-tip works great. Powdered graphite is cheap. You can get a quart sized bottle from the local John Deere dealer. It is used to lube some parts on a corn seeder . I put some in a baby food jar with a screw on lid and the Q-tip fits inside. I can't remember the last time I had a stuck case.

I must not be doing it properly either, after thousands of .223, 500 Linebaugh, 416 Rigby, 458 Win Mag, etc., etc., etc. I haven't experienced the first difficult case to resize, much less a stuck case. My kids apparently can't do it correctly either, they haven't stuck a case yet.

Still use Imperial for small loading batches, but the One Shot sure helps when resizing a large number of cases.

Some calibers, and the chamber to die to brass interface, are harder to size than others. So, everyone can have a different experience with the same calibers as far as sizing effort goes.

I've been very lucky too.
I use Hornady one shot and have resized thousands of pieces of brass, no trouble, before that I used a Lyman spray lube but the source dried up.
If I started having trouble I have some Imperial but what a mess to get it all over your fingers then transfer it to each case.

I used to use an RCBS pad and their lube but it was always a sticky horrible stuff to handle so tried imperial wax and never looked back. I firstly brush the inside necks with graphite then apply the wax to the case, a dab of a finger and you can wipe 5 or six cases between thumb and finger before requiring another dab. Lubes my 404 cases to FL size easily.

I then use a paper towel with a light soak of camp cooker fuel (fuelite) and then roll 5 - 6 cases in the towel at once between hands. It removes all wax, dries quickly and leaves a good shine on the cases. I then use the same fuelite on a cotton bud and clean the inside necks.
The fuelite evaporates quickly and doesn't seem to fume badly like petrol or other solvents, seems fine in a shed or garage with a little ventilation but obviously no naked flames or smoking.

I only use Imperial sizing wax..you can run a 4 inch pipe up a nats a$$ with that stuff.

We load for all the big bores, and use only Imperial sizing lube.

I put a few cases in my hand, put a bit of lube on one case, and roll them between by hands.

I use a bit of lube on my fingers to lube the outside of the necks too.