Back when I was shooting a .223, I tried 4198 (I think it was H-4198) and wasn't impressed with it with 50 gr bullets. Accuracy was only so so and velocity was barely 3,000 fps. I had better luck with Accurate 2460 and then settled on Accurate 2015-BR with the Nosler 50 gr Ballistic Tips as my varmint load. Something else to consider, anyway.

Kory,

H-335 is a great powder in the 223 but better suited for heavier bullets which I much prefer in the 223 over the 40 gr pills.

That said, my current 223, a Howa heavy barreled varminter that I accurized refuses to shoot the 50 and 55 gr bullets but will hold 1/4 moa with the 40 gr Blitzkings all day so I shoot them.

A far as weighing brass, I would sort them in 1 to 1.5 gr catagories and you will be fine for the range you will be using the 223 at.

I like to start the bullets 0.020" off the lands and test from there. usually by 0.005" longer or shorter to see how they group.

I generally get my velocity close to where I want it first and them play with seating depth to tighten up group size. If you load to full tilt max pressures you may get into pressure problems if you lengthen your seating depth. Another good reason not to load to absolute max pressures.

These small cases are very difficult to read pressure signs. Cases can look normal and pressure can be well over spec. Best to always shoot and test over a chrono.

Your velocity will tell you more of your pressure then your cases will.

As far as your brake goes, there is no powder that will make your brake work effectively with a 223 case volume. The expansion ratio is high enough that there just is not much muzzle pressure left when the bullet exits to make a brake work effectively.

Generlly brakes on this class of rounds is more for muzzle control more then recoil reduction as there is not much to begin with.

To be honest, they are more for looks with the 223 class rounds then anything. I do not recommend them to my customers onteh custom rifles I build.

Now a 22-250 with a medium weight barrel can benefit more by a brake but the 223 just does not have enough case volume as 25-28 gr of powder is not a hole lot to make a brake work well.

If you want to stick with a 40 gr bullet, 4198 is a very good powder. If I were you, I would plug in the numbers for a 50 gr tipped bullet loaded to top loads in the current manuals and compare them to the 40 gr ballistics.

At longer ranges, the 50 gr pill will perform better. May drop a little more but the higher energy and less wind drift make the 50 gr bullet a better choice for actual varminting.

Good Shooting!!!

Kirby Allen(50)

when I had a .223 bolt, my accurate load was with w748. I also always cut the primer pockets, when new, and after each firing. Debur once
http://www.geocities.com/redhawk300/redhawk_ss_223rem.html

I'm trying to develop a 223 load for my Tikka T3 Hunter. I'm using Sierra 40 gr HP bullets and H335 powder. A few questions come to mind:

1. When I group the prepped brass by weight, what is the range for each group? In other words, should I group them in 1 grain granularoty, 5 grain granularity?

2. How much gap should I leave off of the rifling as a starting point?

3. Should I initial vary the gap for best groups before I start varying the powder charge amount?

Thank you very much!

Regards,
Kory