I've got a Dillon XL650 (*) sitting in my front room in a box waiting for me to finish building a bench for it, a vibratory tumbler tearing my desk apart several hours a day as it cleans and polishes a LOT of range pickup brass.

But, to be honest, I'm lost in a very spendy world.

What are the actual MINIMUM steps to reload used pistol / rifle brass and what are the recommended steps and what is completely optional for all but the most anal-retnetive reloader? How much powder and bullets and such should I keep on hand to reload 5-10,000 cartridges a year?

The brass is pretty .. now what? Does it have to be blown or wiped clean? How do I keep corn cob media out of .223 cases? How do I get it back out again if I can't avoid entry?

I've read a couple hundred posts thus far and it seem like the post I am looking for should exist somewhere ... but I keep seeing recipes for exotic calibers ... not the simple instructions that get a new-comer started.

What am I missing?

If possible, list the steps in some sort of sane sequence. I'm not afraid of making (minor) mistakes (I've made a few already ... such is the price of learning something new), but I don't want to spend $5.00 to reload a 50 cent cartridge ... if ya know what I mean and I don't want my spare bedroom disappearing in a shower of splinters and pink spray, either.

If the post I am looking for already exists, there's no need to re-invent the wheel for my sake ... just point me at it, please (and thank you!)

Bill

(*) no case feeder, I did get the 3 piece carbide .223 dies. I am a former die-maker, so I'm cool with setting the press up ... that's not the issue. I do not know the order of operations prior to dropping the first case in the press.

What you did is break the first rule for new reloaders; get a simple, one station press, or even a Lee Loader, and start simply. I see cases like this all the time; guys rush out and buy all the mechanized presses and are overwhelmed with information.
Reloading is a very simple process, but you need to learn slowly, step by step. Not by jumping into the deep end first.
I also sense you have not read your reloading manual to learn the basics.
Your last statement also tells me you have not done any homework;. "I do not know the order of operations". We can tell you here, but you really need to read your loading manual, and learn the basics for yourself; then ask your questions.
I would recommend you get a single station press and go from there but you might already be in trouble with the wife.

Yep what dpcd said. Sorry walk before you run.

NK- what dpcd said: Start simple, get good manual(s) and go slow- Safety first.

Just my experience, nothing more:
Lee turret press (Package deal is around $125)
Started with .270 Win dies and turret and .40S&W dies and turret. Read Lee Loading manual. Read it again, and again.
Loaded a few, shot a few. Worked my way to the most accurate load for the 270 and a thumper for the 40.

Now I have turrets for 30-06, 7.65 x 53, .357, 32-20 and am building my own wildcat, a 30cal from a necked down 357 Max in Marlin 336 lever gun.

Oh yeah...didn't start loading until I was 47. Haven't bought factory ammo in 10 years.

Wife (#2) doesn't understand, but doesn't object either. She knows that I am safe.

Start over with the basics. If you err, do so on the side of safety!

Hell, I loaded over a thousand rounds on two Lee loaders in high school in the 60s' reloading presses were like gold then.
No better way to learn the basic steps.

quote:

I loaded over a thousand rounds on two Lee loaders in high school in the 60s' reloading presses were like gold then.No better way to learn the basic steps.

I thought I was in high cotton when I moved from the little plastic scoop to a scale.

But, dpcd is much older than I am. OK guess I did get my 6.5Jap lee loader around 1965-66.

Pretty much the same thing. You bought a good press for when you get up and running. Problem is you probably need a few items to get started still.

1. A scale, I'd go with a beam for a first scale. I like my RCBS 505.

2. A single stage press. Two reasons, getting started and you'll work up a load and you can't do that on a progressive very well.

3. A loading manual, tells you what your loads are and puts the steps in order.

I started with an RCBS kit; press, scale, trimmer, manual and odds and ends.

Basic steps:
Clean brass, tumble it.
Size and deprime.
Trim and remove primer crimp if there is one.
Remove case lube.
Prime.
Powder.
Seat bullet.

On the 650 this is a 2 head set up. One to hold a size and deprime die one side and on the other side a trimmer. Then the second head is used to prime, add powder, and hold the bullet seating die. In between heads you clean the brass again.

Basic steps:
Clean brass, tumble it.
(you have to find a way to remove corn cobs. A small pick and shaking works, Holding upside down on the center bolt of your vibratory cleaner works. Compressed air sometimes works...but the media goes everywhere.)
Read the simple directions on the Dillon.
Follow them. lube the case or using carbide dies, Load the cleaned fired case into to the first station where your sizing die is screwed down far enough to touch the shell plate when press is fully depressed. Decap and size one case. Pull it out and admire it. Your started. Read Dillon directions again. Load primers into the feeder. Resize the same case and now insert primer on the downstroke. One case sized and primed. Now you can read the directions again and load the powder drop and throw a few checking the amount against a scale and your manual. Got that down? Keep going like this until you have one loaded round.
If all this works for you, then start using the Dillon for a true progressive. Many people make it harder than it is. The Dillon just sizes, decaps, primes, drops powder, seats bullets and crimps if desire just like a manual press. It just has multiple stations to do it in. You can use it one station at a time if you so choose until you trust it and your process using it. YouTube videos are great teachers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEdFj2uZst0
Above is one. There are many. Enjoy!!

Sequence of operations from dirty brass in a bucket to brass ready to load ... that's all I'm asking for.

I just want to know which parts of case prep are religious rites and which are existential.

I don't know about the Lee and Hornady manuals, but the Nosler, ADM and Vectan manuals do not touch on the topic and YouTube has a lot of conflicting information. I was searching for a reloading forum when I came here ... and I'll be searching for one when I go.

I'm trying to be nice here, but the condescending attitude has got to go ... you guys sound like Usenet in the early days of Linux when "RTFM" (Read The F(ine) Manual" ... which usually hadn't even been written yet ... was the standard answer anytime someone wanted to appear knowledgeable ... but didn't actually know the answer well enough to explain it to someone else.

BTW, I'm a retired tool and die-maker. The XL 650 is actually a very simple machine. You'll never see a question about it from me.

That's a promise.

Read Lee's book and a little book called the ABC's of reloading. Read them both 2-3 times. Start with a single stage press as all suggested above.

quote:

Originally posted by Fury01:
Basic steps:
Clean brass, tumble it.
(you have to find a way to remove corn cobs. A small pick and shaking works, Holding upside down on the center bolt of your vibratory cleaner works. Compressed air sometimes works...but the media goes everywhere.)
Read the simple directions on the Dillon.
Follow them. lube the case or using carbide dies, Load the cleaned fired case into to the first station where your sizing die is screwed down far enough to touch the shell plate when press is fully depressed. Decap and size one case. Pull it out and admire it. Your started. Read Dillon directions again. Load primers into the feeder. Resize the same case and now insert primer on the downstroke. One case sized and primed. Now you can read the directions again and load the powder drop and throw a few checking the amount against a scale and your manual. Got that down? Keep going like this until you have one loaded round.
If all this works for you, then start using the Dillon for a true progressive. Many people make it harder than it is. The Dillon just sizes, decaps, primes, drops powder, seats bullets and crimps if desire just like a manual press. It just has multiple stations to do it in. You can use it one station at a time if you so choose until you trust it and your process using it. YouTube videos are great teachers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEdFj2uZst0
Above is one. There are many. Enjoy!!

Thank you ... I just posted a response based on earlier non-answers. Had I seen yours before hitting "send", I'd have kept my powder dry.

Don't get in a huff just yet; you won't find the quality of knowledge anywhere else; the net is full of bogus info.
If all you are asking is about case prep,, then the answer is; you don't need to do anything but make sure it is dirt free. No real need to tumble, or do anything.
Get a Lee or Hornady manual. The ones you have assume knowledge of basics. Nothing any of use said changes what you need to learn first.

quote:

Originally posted by Fury01:
Basic steps:
Clean brass, tumble it.
(you have to find a way to remove corn cobs. A small pick and shaking works, Holding upside down on the center bolt of your vibratory cleaner works. Compressed air sometimes works...but the media goes everywhere.)

Thanks ... I knew that there were decent people here ... I just knew it!

So actually polishing it isn't important ... "clean" is good enough? No need to futz with the primer pocket or annealing each time they are reloaded?

It's not that I haven't done my homework ... it's that what I have been running into is often contradictory.

I'll get the books that have been suggested ... but folks who are afraid of a 5 stage press haven't spent much time in the machine trades.I am definitely NOT going to go get a Lee single stage (or RCBS or Hornady) when I already have an XL 650.

Thanks for stating the obvious ... that they simply aren't complicated ... just a series of single steps that progress through a logical order.

Actually making the cartridge is pretty straight forward.

What wasn't clear was how complicated to make case prep. From your description, not very.

(I manually de-primed ahead of time so I'm using compressed air to get the corn cobs out of the flash hole. Inside of the case and primer pockets look like new brass ... and that's probably overkill.)

Again ... thanks ... I am in your debt for a simple, straightforward non-condescending answer.

No, tumbling is not necessary at all; it is just to make the brass look new. Tarnished brass shoots as well as bright. And annealing is rarely if ever needed; only when/if your necks start cracking. Cleaning primer pockets? It is a good idea but I rarely do it. To do that circumvents the benefits of a progressive press so I deprime first only on BP brass.
And to suggest that the rest of aren't decent might be taken wrongly by some.

EVERYONE started somewhere...as mentioned many started with the old Lee loader "hammer" dies or the Lyman 310 Tang tool and MOST started simple because there wasn't a whole lot of goodies back then....I didn't know what a "vibrating case cleaner" was until I'd been reloading for umpteen years and I only use one now and then...I just chuck the case in a Lee case spinner and polish them with 0000 steel wool...now and then.

As long as you don't toss your brass in the dirt simply wiping them off with blue shot towels while processing them is sufficient.

I suggest getting a Hornady, Nosler, Speer or Sierra loading manual...they ALL have full details on how to begin reloading.

Break out the Dillon manual and learn HOW to run your machine and I would suggest spending a bit more on Lee reloading tools to learn with, including set of Hornady headspace gauges and bullet comparators and a simple C type reloading press to thoroughly learn the required skills.

Mess up with a fast burning powder in your fancy Dillon and you might end up without a hand or eye or your wife collecting your life insurance...this is a dangerous sport not to be taken lightly OR for heading into it in the fast lane petal to the metal.

I didn't see where you bought any measuring tools so a good digital or dial caliper AND a 1" digital micrometers should be high on your list...HOW else are you going to measure your over all cartridge length.

ALL these things are covered in the reloading manuals.

I slightly envy you and your Dillon...I wanted one many years ago when I was burning powder like a sailor just off a 6 mo deployment...but just never bought one.

Enjoy it SAFELY!!!!

New Kid,
Your welcome. I was in a bit of a hurry or would have added more but I saw you were a machinist...so gauges and tools and data you understand.
Have a great time with the Dillon. I started on an RL 450B and still use the same press. I have all my fingers and such as well.

BTW,
Annealing is kind of fun but I only started doing it a few years ago and been reloading for 35. It does make brass last a Longggg time and can solve some specific problems. Certainly not needed. Just a decently clean case and that is to protect your dies from dirt / carbon scratching them kind of abuse. Primer pockets etc. are for the nth degree crowd. I do it when bored.

Or if your lucky enough to have a small boy or girl, they love to do things like clean primer pockets with a $5 scraper tool that everybody makes. Makes them feel involved in what Dad loves to do. Good stuff that.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Hell, I loaded over a thousand rounds on two Lee loaders in high school in the 60s' reloading presses were like gold then.
No better way to learn the basic steps.

Another guy that started on Lee loaders in the 60s. So did I, 12Ga, 7MM Mag, 25-06, 357 Mag.
I loaded a lot of shells for these with the hand tool Lee loaders.
Then in 1974 I stepped up to a single station Rock Chucker.
That's what I use today for some 20 some odd different cartridges.
Wish I knew how many rounds have gone through that press.

1st, get a Lyman, Speer, Hornady or Sierra manual. ( I suggest you buy ALL of them).Then READ them. Don't scan the pages or just flip through the pages. Then READ them again.
I am not being a smart ass. There is ALOT of knowledge and useful info in those (old school) things.
Remember, any jackass can post on YouTube and 'provide' bs, crap or faulty info. Trust the net if you must (?), BUT verify w/ known sources of good info.
Go slow
Test what you produce in small batches (b/4 you load a whole bunch).
In reloading, copius notes ARE required.
Be very tidy in your reloading area and room.
Store your powder(s) and primers correctly.
Hope this helps.
AR is one source on the web that can give you good info. A lot of us have been reloading for decades and done a lot of research and testing/ experimenting.
All you have to do is ask.

Yeah...I still have and use my 30-30 and 308 Lee tools.

You might also consider buying a couple cheap battery powered 3/8" drill motors, a set of carbide primer pocket informer's for rifle and pistol and Lee case trimmers for your calibers and a deburring that will handle from 17 up...I can clean and trim faster than you can think with the Lee tools...keeps everything uniform and the primer pocket tools keep the primer pockets clean AND a uniform depth so primer seating isn't hit and miss. You'd be amazed just how much brass gets taken out when uniforming ...it also squares the bottom edges of the pockets so the primer seats much better.

Simple, quickly done and you produce MUCH better, more accurate ammo.

Later on when you get bit by the bug, REALLY BAD, you can buy a neck turning cutter and see just how accurate your ammo becomes. By then you will have learned how to weigh measure and sort your brass and bullets, measure the bullet ogives and sort and your 1 1/2" shooter will turn into a quarter incher as soon as you tune-up your rifle...

See what you started... Hahahahahahahahahaha

Here is a true story that has nothing to do with the OPs question;
When I was a Lt at Ft Knox in 73, I got a Lyman press for reloading, after using Lee Loaders for many years. They did fire inspections in the BOQs and once I got a fire deficiency letter that I had to reply to that said; "Evidence of Self Loading Ammunition in BOQ".
As required, I replied; "All Self Loading Ammunition removed from BOQ". Which was true; none of the ammunition I had loaded itself.
Never heard from them again. Idiots.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Don't get in a huff just yet; you won't find the quality of knowledge anywhere else; the net is full of bogus info.
If all you are asking is about case prep,, then the answer is; you don't need to do anything but make sure it is dirt free. No real need to tumble, or do anything.
Get a Lee or Hornady manual. The ones you have assume knowledge of basics. Nothing any of use said changes what you need to learn first.

Thank you. Whole different tone this time around. Will take your book suggestions.

You mention that the net is full of bogus info: I agree, and that is the source of my confusion -- not a failure to do my homework. That is why I asked for help here ... the information I was encountering was contradictory enough to warrant seeking out a more authoritative source.

Onward through the fog ...

If there is no real need to do any case prep, what is with all the fetishes about primer pocket reaming, flash hole uniforming, annealing (I've even seen annealing recommended for 9mm cases), crimp swaging and so on? The list of things that COULD be done to a simple brass stamping is all but endless ...

Smoke and mirrors? High-end competition only? Old men making something to do so they will have something to do? Madison Avenue at the gun club?

I was hoping to break it down into three lists A) Must do B) worth doing, but not essential and C) not worth the time or money to do and might actually be harmful.

Oh well ... I've already blown the corn cob out of 1,500 .223 cases and am working my way through 5,500 9mm and 800 .40 S&W and 500 .308 cases. With new additions from this week, I'll have at least 6,000 9mm cases awaiting powder, primer and bullets by days end.

Thanks for your input.

Once they got cleaned up somewhat, I discovered that a bunch of brass I had been "gifted" with was all Berdan primed. Not worth my time to convert ... I've got more on my plate than I can eat now.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Here is a true story that has nothing to do with the OPs question;
When I was a Lt at Ft Knox in 73, I got a Lyman press for reloading, after using Lee Loaders for many years. They did fire inspections in the BOQs and once I got a fire deficiency letter that I had to reply to that said; "Evidence of Self Loading Ammunition in BOQ".
As required, I replied; "All Self Loading Ammunition removed from BOQ". Which was true; none of the ammunition I had loaded itself.
Never heard from them again. Idiots.

Your tax dollars at work. God bless "murica!

quote:

Originally posted by NONAGONAGIN:
Yeah...I still have and use my 30-30 and 308 Lee tools.

You might also consider buying a couple cheap battery powered 3/8" drill motors, a set of carbide primer pocket informer's for rifle and pistol and Lee case trimmers for your calibers and a deburring that will handle from 17 up...I can clean and trim faster than you can think with the Lee tools...keeps everything uniform and the primer pocket tools keep the primer pockets clean AND a uniform depth so primer seating isn't hit and miss. You'd be amazed just how much brass gets taken out when uniforming ...it also squares the bottom edges of the pockets so the primer seats much better.

Simple, quickly done and you produce MUCH better, more accurate ammo.

Later on when you get bit by the bug, REALLY BAD, you can buy a neck turning cutter and see just how accurate your ammo becomes. By then you will have learned how to weigh measure and sort your brass and bullets, measure the bullet ogives and sort and your 1 1/2" shooter will turn into a quarter incher as soon as you tune-up your rifle...

See what you started... Hahahahahahahahahaha

And that explains, in a nutshell, how I got here to start with. ;-(

It's a LONG way down that particular rabbit hole!

A LONG way.

quote:

Originally posted by Texas Killartist:
1st, get a Lyman, Speer, Hornady or Sierra manual. ( I suggest you buy ALL of them).Then READ them. Don't scan the pages or just flip through the pages. Then READ them again.
I am not being a smart ass. There is ALOT of knowledge and useful info in those (old school) things.
Remember, any jackass can post on YouTube and 'provide' bs, crap or faulty info. Trust the net if you must (?), BUT verify w/ known sources of good info.
Go slow
Test what you produce in small batches (b/4 you load a whole bunch).
In reloading, copius notes ARE required.
Be very tidy in your reloading area and room.
Store your powder(s) and primers correctly.
Hope this helps.
AR is one source on the web that can give you good info. A lot of us have been reloading for decades and done a lot of research and testing/ experimenting.
All you have to do is ask.

I DID ask ... and got scolded. That isn't acceptable and I said so.

That part of the discussion, for my part, is over.

I intend to follow up an every reading suggestion and I agree with the "make a few, shoot a few" rule of thumb. If I live long enough (I'm in my 60's), I'll still be honoring that 20 years from now whenever I make a change in whatever I might be routinely doing.

When I was making / setting dies, that's how we always rolled ... and I was usually working with about a century of experience looking on.

I came here seeking information. If I see a question that I can answer, I will. Otherwise, I'm here to learn.


I give respect and I require it. I hope that's okay with you guys.

quote:

Originally posted by NONAGONAGIN:
EVERYONE started somewhere...as mentioned many started with the old Lee loader "hammer" dies or the Lyman 310 Tang tool and MOST started simple because there wasn't a whole lot of goodies back then.

...

I didn't see where you bought any measuring tools so a good digital or dial caliper AND a 1" digital micrometers should be high on your list...HOW else are you going to measure your over all cartridge length.

ALL these things are covered in the reloading manuals.

I slightly envy you and your Dillon...I wanted one many years ago when I was burning powder like a sailor just off a 6 mo deployment...but just never bought one.

Enjoy it SAFELY!!!!

Well, the Dillon put me over the pickle barrel this month, but I'm of the school that says "buy quality, cry once -- buy cheap, cry every time you use it". I couldn't see buying simpler presses when I know that I can handle the Dillon without much effort. I was holding out for the 1050, then realized that I could re-load more calibers with the 650 (doesn't make sense ... but that is what Dillon says, so I'll take them at their word). SO I was able to work it into the budget a couple months sooner than originally planned.

You could see the look of relief when I told my wife I had just saved us $1,200 by getting a cheaper press.

She knows my "toys" are pretty much all expensive ... I don't buy junk without darned good reason. She also knows that I 'ran the numbers' before deciding to re-load (as opposed to simply stocking up with factory ammo.) I buy all the ammo. We want to shoot more. This is how I intend to afford that.

I do have some of the specialty gages coming (hurry brown truck!) and still have calipers. indicators and such ... I kept most of my tools when I left the trade. That said, I own Vernier, dial and digital tools ... each has a reason for being in my toolbox. Each earns its way. I suspect that the fancy gages might be more than I need, though. It seems like I could load to SAAMI OAL and be okay ... my firearms have fired every factory round I've offered them, but, as another gentleman said, the fun is in tuning everything "just so".

I want to pick up another set of 0-6 mics because my other set turned up missing when we moved to NC. This may be the excuse I've been looking for.
:-)

Still casting about for an excuse to buy a surface grinder, engine lathe and knee mill. They've been on the list since before I had the garage wired for 100 amp 220v 3 years ago. Little by little.

The reason for asking the initial question (for even searching this forum out in the first place) was because I am well aware of what I am "playing" with. I want to do it right ... but I intend to do it.

I've already gotten my first "surprise" when a primer that had already launched a projectile ignited when I was manually de-capping. Not really a problem ... and not really news ... but a hint that future "surprises" probably won't be good. I expect that there will be others ... it isn't safe to think that nothing bad will ever happen. Better to assume that it will ... and take intelligent steps to defend against it.

As a machinist, the best day was always the one with the fewest surprises.

Just for giggles:

You said "I didn't see where you bought any measuring tools so a good digital or dial caliper AND a 1" digital micrometers should be high on your list...HOW else are you going to measure your over all cartridge length."

I suppose I could use a jo-block stack and a dial indicator to jury-rig a heighth gage. ;-)))))
Or a stack, a couple straight edges (the longer blocks would work perfectly) and some shim stock. :-)

There are a multiplicity of manners by which one may de-fur that particular feline. That is what kept me fascinated with the machine trades for so long.If I have to, I could use some modeling clay to check head space or bullet to land distance ... or I could make a plaster cast of it and measure the chamber directly. That's not the best or easiest way, but it's one way how the gages could have been developed.

Even today, rather than trying to learn how to use new woodworking tools, I'm actively focused on the question of how to do the same job without them. Not to save money (too late for that!), but as an intellectual challenge.

The fun part about being a machinist was when I could accomplish what needed to be done with little more than a piece of string, a home-made straight edge and some good old fashioned trig. Loved me some "floor work".

Ask me some time about setting the corner guide bearings in a 25 ton die sometime. I LOVE to brag! :-)



Where IS that darned truck?

Bill

quote:

Originally posted by NONAGONAGIN:

Later on when you get bit by the bug, REALLY BAD, you can buy a neck turning cutter and see just how accurate your ammo becomes. By then you will have learned how to weigh measure and sort your brass and bullets, measure the bullet ogives and sort and your 1 1/2" shooter will turn into a quarter incher as soon as you tune-up your rifle...

See what you started... Hahahahahahahahahaha

Way ahead of ya, bro ... I'm already there. But first I need to be able to make "okay" ammo safely and reliably. But this - is - a very inviting rabbit hole ... I wonder what might be down there?

One (308) hole targets at 200 yds? (Can already x out the NRA 50 yd small bore target pretty regularly. Just struggling to do it without the sandbags. I'm in the circle ... but only on the x about 1 in 4 times -- and that's taking the "gimmees". Got work to do.)

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Here is a true story that has nothing to do with the OPs question;
When I was a Lt at Ft Knox in 73, I got a Lyman press for reloading, after using Lee Loaders for many years. They did fire inspections in the BOQs and once I got a fire deficiency letter that I had to reply to that said; "Evidence of Self Loading Ammunition in BOQ".
As required, I replied; "All Self Loading Ammunition removed from BOQ". Which was true; none of the ammunition I had loaded itself.
Never heard from them again. Idiots.

Waaaaaay off topic, but this remindes me of my own past. I happened to be present when the OD observed a guard heading off to his post (where he was to spend the night) with a pillow and blanket.

OD: "Are you thinking of sleeping on duty?"

Soldier: "Sir, when I'm sleeping, I'm never on duty."

OD: "I hope not, soldier."

True story.

For the OP; on message again; if you are loading .223 for an AR, then you don't need to do anything but make sure the brass is dirt free. Nothing you do to it will make it shoot any better. Now, if you are bench rest shooting with a good bolt action, then, more care should be taken, but annealing is way down the road. Case polishing can't hurt, but is not necessary at all. Primer pocket swaging is necessary on military crimped primers in any case. OAL can be measured with a simple dial caliber; no need for a height gauge. You have to bevel the mouths in and out, once, on all brass. If you are manually de-priming, I suggest you get a decapper die, Lee makes them, that does nothing but de-prime in the press. Primer pocket reaming and flash hole reaming is more advanced; not for ARs. Accurate bolt actions, maybe. Maybe not. I have done it and it didn't make any difference. Much of this stuff is just to keep guys busy; some of it might help in bench rest competition. General blasting and informal target shooting; not so much. It's not foggy once you read the books. And do it for 50 years or so. Then you will be advising newbees too.

Where are you;? I will come over and help you.
Here are a coupe of examples; I load a lot for double rifles; nothing matters except, will it freely chamber. Everything depends on the powder charge and bullet weight. Nothing you do to a case makes a bit of difference in a double rifle.
In my 308 match rifles; I do trim to length once in a while, and tumble the brass when they get tarnished; not too often. I used to uniform the flash holes and primer pockets but it didn't seem to matter. I never anneal them. Chamfer the mouths of course. That's it. Pistol; I do tumble those each time as they get dirty from all the gas involved; but nothing else. One real important thing is to make sure all the primers are seated; you can get a slam fire in an AR that way; I have had them.

New kid where are you located there might be a member close to you that could show you the ropes.

quote:

When my wife finds out how much I spent getting ready to reload the first cartridge, the rifle to fire it will seem cheap.<

Just tell her its a lot cheaper than buy ammo.

Greetings New Kid,
Sorry your initial meeting here seemed a little prickly. Like me, I think you will find that the guys are knowledgeable and generous.

Three suggestions:
-Put the vibratory tumbler on a concrete floor.
-There are some very good deals on used reloading equipment on Ebay.
-PM me if you want more personalized help. (50 years handloading.)

quote:

Originally posted by Brice:
Greetings New Kid,

Three suggestions:
-Put the vibratory tumbler on a concrete floor

I really wonder why. I have mine out side on a thick rubberized door mat.FYI It is used with the cover off especially whan I use Bon- Ami mixed with the Walnut. The breeze takes care of the dust . 58 years reloading. roger

New Kid- you mentioned moving to NC.

If you're anywhere near my part of the state (Asheville area) I have a good friend who loads using Dillon exclusively- I think he's got a 650 too.

If you thought I was dumping on you earlier, that wasn't my intent.

Feel free to PM me. We're all here to help one another.

1. Two ways to tackle the corncob in the flash hole problem: try other brands; some have larger particles that don't stick in flash holes. Or, like I did, invest in a wet rotary tumbler that uses Lemi-shine, dish soap and stainless steel pins. Frankford Utube

2.Just like above, primer pockets don't need to be cleaned after every shot.

3. I started my reloading hobby using a single stage press. I would have liked to use a progressive but they were not as available as they are now, and my budget didn't allow it. It was the early 70's. I own 2 Dillon presses; a SDB pistol only progressive and their RL550b for bottle necked pistol and all rifle cartridges. Do not hesitate to give their tech line a call and pick their brains. Those folks know their machines inside and out.

4. I've always thought the Lyman manual was the best at describing the basics. I believe their latest is #49.

For reading about the basics I like the Hornady books. I like the Lyman books also, one thing I like about the Lyman books is it covers more than one brand of bullets. Most books from bullet makers only cover their bullets.
I currently own a Lyman, Lee, Hornady, Sierra books.
These all have very good info on the basics.
As others have said just clean brass is all you need. When you shoot, try not to let the brass hit the ground, A tarp can help on that.
If you try a bit to keep it clean then it's easier to clean.
Once fired I inspect it for damage and to clean it.
I don't own a tumbler type cleaner anymore, they cause to much lead exposure.
I use a water soluble case lube. After a pass through the size die I dump the cases in a large plastic tub with a squirt of Dawn dish soap and boiling hot water. A bit of vinegar helps shine the brass.
Put on the lid and agitate. Once I think it's clean I pour the tube out in a plastic colander, shake around to get the water out. I then pour the brass out on a towel. Bunch the ends together and shake a bit to remove most of the water. I then stand it in some trays I built with holes in the bottom. Necks in the holes. I then stack these trays over the floor vent of my furnace overnight to dry.
When dry I load.
There are things I do after the first loading. I use a Lee trimmer set to trim to length, then deburr inside and out. I do the deburr on new cases too.
This only needs doing the first time and then only as needed. Lighter loads mean less trimming, max loads need it more often.
Some do more to brass, some is beneficial to target shooters, the more precise the shooting the more precise the case prep.
I think some of the more intensive procedures, like flash hole uniformity and such are as much a confidence builder as a need. If you believe you need to do these things then you need to do them.
Leo