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<Swamp-Man>
posted
I have recently bought some different powders for my 240 wby to do some experimenting with. Mostly for fun, but also in hope of finding the "perfect load". In almost all of the experiments I will get two bullets right next to each other if not in the same hole, but the third always seems to drift up, down, left, or right. Can I please get some ideas as what could be causing this problem.
 
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Depending on severity of the flyer, bad scope, loose rings or base, poor bedding, stressed barrel or action.

With the ammo it might be any factor causing excess velocity spread or differing neck tension on the bullet, or poor uniformity of bullets.

External factors are the wind and the shooter.

Welcome to our nightmare.
 
Posts: 612 | Location: Atlanta, GA USA | Registered: 19 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Picture of Wstrnhuntr
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Ive been having similar troubles with a 2nd hand 30-06. Shoots great clean and shortly after it goes skiwampus. I just tried some Barnes cr-10 for removing copper fouling and was suprised at how much it pulled out AFTER the gun was otherwise cleaned. Havent tried it yet but heres hoping..
 
Posts: 10188 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
<green 788>
posted
That 240 Weatherby, if not allowed to cool for several minutes between the second and third shot, will get hotter than the space shuttle's belly. This will of course cause the third shot to go awry. I call this the "300 Win Mag syndrome."

I'm sure you're allowing some cooling time, but I would guess it may not be enough.

Anytime you're seeing the first two shots group well, and the third shot move out, you're likely dealing with a hot barrel.

Try 53.0 grains of RL22 with a 100 grain bullet, and allow at least five minutes between the second and third shot and see how things go...

Dan
 
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<Swamp-Man>
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Thanks fro the info. Green 788, I was allowing about 2 minutes between the 2nd and 3rd shot. I will take your advice and let it stand a while longer. My best load so far is 56 grains of H4831 with a 75 grain vmax. The 1st 2 shots were in one hole. The third went high about 2 inches.
 
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What Dan said, or one of the other "75 common accuracy gremlins".

Welcome to the first day of the rest of your life. [Embarrassed] Dutch.

Oh, it's probably not so much the barrel warping, as the fact that the ammo gets hot from the chamber heat, and pressure goes piiiiyooouwwww on that third shot. I think that's gremlin #41. [Wink]

[ 11-10-2002, 07:46: Message edited by: Dutch ]
 
Posts: 4564 | Location: Idaho Falls, ID, USA | Registered: 21 September 2000Reply With Quote
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Good luck with the third one,the POI for the first two shots ,is it always the same...
 
Posts: 439 | Location: Quebec Canada | Registered: 27 August 2001Reply With Quote
<Swamp-Man>
posted
Yes the first two rounds are pretty consistant.My barrel is not free floated very much,I mean I can slip a dollar bill between the forestock and the barrel pretty easily.Should I get more work done to this area or just settle with the fact that it wont shoot groups of three without letting the barrel cool down for some time.
 
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I dont think it is a bedding problem,may be a crown problem.There is an another topic a bit related to your problem: reloading my .30-378 Weatherby.Do you FL,do you use RCBS dies...
 
Posts: 439 | Location: Quebec Canada | Registered: 27 August 2001Reply With Quote
<green 788>
posted
Swamp Man,

If you can slip a dollar bill between the barrel and forearm easily, that tells me that there probably isn't enough forearm tip pressure for consistent shots.

I would go on and free float the barrel. While you have the stock off, put a dab of Brownell's Acraglass into the recoil lug area, being sure to put release agent on the recoil lug. This will help keep things tight. If you don't have any acraglas, you can use a little dab of JB Weld. Be sure to rough up the inside of the recoil lug channel in the stock so that the bedding will adhere well. And don't forget to use some release agent, or grease (Pam cooking spray works) on any metal that the bedding agent will touch. Plug any holes in the action that the bedding agent might flow into with putty. If you put a small enough spot of bedding under the recoil lug, it won't overflow the sides of the stock, so there shouldn't be a need to mask it off.

Seal the wood (if this is a wood stock) where you free float.

Best of luck,

Dan
 
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<Swamp-Man>
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I use hornady dies for the 240 and only neck size.
 
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The above posters have all made excellent points. One thing That I would like to point out is the "inherent factor". Some rifles are known for their accuracy (after tweaking) and some are not. Ruger vs. Remington comes to mind. Cartridges also are known for their inherent accuracy ie 222Rem, 22PPC, and 308Win. Bear this in mind while trying to get your rifle to do what you want it to do. I have rifles that exhibit the same characteristics that you have described. I call them "3 shot rifles". They are great for their intended use-hunting rifles. They were never designed to be used as target rifles-niether the rifle or the cartridge. Good luck in your quest for accracy and consistence. That's what it's all about.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Swampman;the third round how far away is it from the two first ones. Does the same "problem" occur with FL sizing...
 
Posts: 439 | Location: Quebec Canada | Registered: 27 August 2001Reply With Quote
<Swamp-Man>
posted
Rejpelly, no, I have not tryed to FL size yet. I was under the impresion that neck sizing would be more accurate and consistant.My third shot is usually about 2 inches high to the left or right about 1 half inch.
 
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Do you use boat tail or flat base bullets.Do you use a low chamfer tool.Have you checked the runout of the expender ball..
 
Posts: 439 | Location: Quebec Canada | Registered: 27 August 2001Reply With Quote
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