i purchased the lee anniv kit for a starter into reloading. i have liked the whole thing until i got to the powder handling. it seems to me that the powder scale is far from accurate. after dumping a hopper full of powder thru the powder measure (as recomended by the manual). i dumped a load onto the scale and wrote it down. after 10 dumps i realized i was getting a difference of up to 1.3gr. checked the zero on the scale and it was off. did the whole thing over again and came up with the same results! checked the zero again, off again!! the question i have is: is it just junk or did i get a bad scale? at first i thought it was the measure until i had to re-zero the scale multiple times. is there a better choice of scales or should i contact the company about this problem?

thanks for any info on my problem

ADVISE LEE OF THE PROBLEM KID. THEY SHOULD TREAT YOU RIGHT I'VE GOT A LEE SCALE AND NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT. IT MAKES SOME OF THE MOST CONSISTANT AMMO I'VE EVER SEEN.

THE 2ND AMENDMENT PRTECTS US ALL...........

Buy a set of RCBS scale weights. I use the scale weights every time I change the settings on my scale. I have two sets of Lee scales and both of them are dead on. I think I got my scale weights from Sinclair International.

ZM

Hondakid - A digital scale is a lot easier and faster, but it's a heck of a lot more money. For your Lee scale, try using some fixed weight (doesn't matter what, a marble, a small rock) and reweigh it a few times and see if the value is repeatable. If the value varies, it's the scale. The powder measure can be a bit of a pain too. You really need to make sure that your technique is very consistent. Use the same speed and force everytime you operate the lever. I've found that a charge can vary as much as a 0.5 grain depending on whether I operate it slow or fast. Some powders are a lot easier than others. I like the H4350 better than the IMR4350 just cause it works through the powder measure easier. Good luck.

[ 03-24-2003, 07:06: Message edited by: Mike Treberg ]

ive got two of the Lee Saftey Powder Scales. they both suck. seems to me that i cant get that thing anywhere near what it is supposed to read. i use a Lyman and a Dillon scale now. both are dead on, everytime.

as far as the powder measure goes, i use that Lee one. it doesnt do too well with H110, but its great for powders like H1000 that are extruded.

Mine agrees spot on with my PACT BBK and RCBS check weights. Whoever said make sure it's centered and to make sure the sliding balance is pegged was right. That's important.

If after doing this, if you still get variations in your powder throws, the problem may be your measure and not your scale. Sometimes powder bridges in the measure or clings due to static electricity -- the first throw will be light and the next throw will be heavy. If you suspect that, try running a warm dryer fabric softener sheet up through the spout and see if that helps.

Martindog

I will agree with that. I borrowed my buddies Lee powder scale and checked lots of powder dumps from my perfect powder measure. I was using bullseye powder which appeared to be a flake powder. I found that depending on how hard I rotated the crank on my powder measure determined whether I got the last few 10ths of a grain. Static kling hold some ine. If after a dump you partially cycle the crank without taking in another charge more powder will continue to fall out. This could be part of the problem. As far as the LEE scale is concerned I was impressed. Seemed pretty accurate to me. Make sure the balance point is centered in the groove as it can get off center and not float right. Cory

Is your table solid? Try a deferent location for scale.

this has nothing to do with the lee scale (accidently broke mine) but my lee powder thrower is dead on when i tap it a couple of times with a magic marker at the top and bottom of stoke.

I remember reading a thread somewhere about "tapping" VS "non tapping" by benchresters. I think non tapping won out, figures because I was a tapper.

I bought a 505 scale recently. Holy crap that LEE scale is bad compared to this.

Also bought a Hornady L-N-L AP. That pistol micrometer powder measure is PERFECT. So much for the plastic junk, well it did start me out so I guess it has its place.

When Im using long stick powder I remove the bottom spout because it tends to hang up in there. When that is removed I just use a funnel and mine is plenty accurate. With others like Rlr 15, 4895, Ball powders etc. it is right on the money.

i picked up a lyman scale yesterday for comparison. tried some known weights on both of them, and the lyman worked great. after a little head scratching i found out that the lee scale has a little stickeness to it. i would put a weight in it and tap (bang) on the bench, and it would work fine. just the little vibration would help the beam to not stick to the base.

after all that i think i'm going to keep the lyman which performs extremely well!!

thanks for the advice and opinions

as for the powder dropper....i dumped 50 charges and it only varied by 0.1gr plus/minus maybe 25% of the time!! i do a double tap when i fill the measure and when i dump it. if you don't do that it seems to change the drop a bit. it didn't matter how fast or slow i rotated the lever or if i bumped at each stop.

just thought i would share that with ya

My experiences with Lee's scale and measure:

Ensure balance blade on scale is clean as well as the notch it sits in. Zero according to instructions. When placing beam on base also ensure the blade that rides inbetween the magnetic balances is evenly spaced between the magnets. You can achieve this by sliding the beam ever so slightly forward or to the rear and isght down from above to make sure it's evenly spaced. After doing that, my scale agrees spot on with RCBS check weights as well as my PACT BBK. I didn't get the BBK becasue of inaccuracy, I got it becasue it's quicker. But I have no hesitation relying on Lee's scale as a bakup.

The measure just works a bit better after running several hoppers full of powder through it. I've adjusted the tension screw to run relatively loosely which works fine for stick powders but it does leak with ball. I also use my measure for rifle weight charges only, not small pistol chrages. For those I use Lee's AUto disk which works fine. I also don't knock the measure at either end, I just use a slow and steady movement. Lee also explains that if you use yours manually, you can take an exacto knife to trim off a little nub on the measure to allow the handle go all the way up to Top Dead Center. This improves the probability that every bit of powder drops every time. The nub is there to allow it to be used automatically with a charging die on their progressive presses. Apparently if it goes all the to TDC, it won't reset or something. Lastly, occasionally I wash it in dish soap and/or run a dryer sheet through it to eliminate static buildup. It can get bad in the hopper with some powder sticking to the walls when you try to dump the unused powder back into the powder container. Using these techniques, I'm spot on with ball powder charges and within +/- .2g with longish extruded powders. It ain't a Harrel's but it gets the job done.

My bottomline is, Lee's stuff works. If it seems to be built too cheaply and you want to spend to get something more substantial, go ahead. But I don't think it's going to be any more effective.

I have a lee scale, and I will say that it is probably as accurate or more accurate than any scale I've ever used.
That said, I hate it. It's without a doubt the hardest scale to set, to read and to change weights on. One thing I wonder about, that scale has to be the easiest scale to make a mistake on of any I've ever seen. I'd think they would change it for that reason alone. Man what shitty design. I like a lot of Lee tools, their turret press is my favorite press of all. But, that scale is a real piece of crap to use. That's why you see them on Ebay for $5 with not bids. If you have the patients to use it, at least the one I've got, it will read to probably .05 grain.
I use an RCBS 5-10, MUCH better scale.

[ 09-18-2003, 10:52: Message edited by: Bobby ]

Funny you should ask this question... I was about to post the same type of thing.

I have both a RCBS 10-10 and Hornady magnectic powder scale.

To zero the RCBS you use a 250gn weight that it comes with and adjust the "leg" (screw up or down).
The hornady you just set the weights to "0" and adjust the "leg" until the pointer is in the middle.

WELL this all seems pretty normal huh? EXCEPT my Hornady scales weigh 4gns less than the RCBS!!!

They are both very good and consistant, they just give different readings for a given weight.

I will add, the RCBS scales arent mine, and a quite old (I dont know their history). I bought the Hornady scales about a month ago.

FYI

I use my lee scale to verify weights only, as I saw right away how much of a pain it would be to use it to find the weight of a load.

I do this by zeroing the scale. then setting the slide and locking it at the desired weight. when I want to check a load, I dump the power into the mesure and see if it balances. so far its been right on with my auto disk powerder mesure. I do have a bit of an issue with static... and im out of fabric sheet but I manage.

HondaKid - I'm going to go at this from a different angle. Is the room you reload in air conditioned? If so, do you have a draft problem? I have an RCBS scale - balance beam - that I've used for many,many years with no problems. I conditioned my reloading room - more for humidity control then comfort - but in using a fan forced system, I made an air pattern in the room. The first time I reloaded in the "new" room, I had the exact problem you are having in that my scale would walk between charges. I set the scale to zero with a set of check weights and watched the scale swing heavy and low - up to 1/2 grain in both directions. My solution - I close the vents when I'm working with the balance scale, this eliminated the constant re-zeroing.

Good Luck.

millsie67, I don't have a 10-10 scale, but I have almost the same scale in the 5-10. I've never heard of zeroing the scale with a 250 gr weight. I was always under the impression that the beam went to 500grains and you used the weight (hung on the pointer end of the beam) to get over 500 grains and up to 1010.
I don't claim to be an expert, but I have worked in a lab for years and have used every scale known to man, both at work and at home. That doesn't mean I know everything, just curious about the zeroing of the 10-10.
Also, I would get a set of check weights and see how the 10-10 fares. It's just as likely that the Hornady is off. If either one is off, I'm sure the manufacturer would repair it. I know RCBS would without any hassle at all.

[ 09-21-2003, 19:11: Message edited by: Bobby ]

I have a Lee powder scale and the powder measure. They never give me any problems. I like the way Lee locks the powder measure with the little O-ring; it never varies once set. I don't understand what you folks are b-tch-n' about-- Lee stuff works very well, or I am one voice in a throng?

If you are having good luck with your Lee scale, then by all means keep up the good work. I wouldn't try to tell anyone to use something different if they are happy with what they have. I salute you if you have the patients to use a Lee scale. All kidding aside, they are accurate, and that's the most important feature of any scale. I would ask, have you ever used an RCBS 5-10? The beam usually makes one complete ocillation and then stops dead on the correct weight, making readings fast. The Lee I've used takes forever.
As for the Powder Measure, I've heard good things about them and am thinking of purchasing one to try. So, I can't speak to that.

I picked up an old used 5-10 at a gun shop for $5 about a year ago WITHOUT instructions and bought a set of rcbs check weights a week ago. Now I am ready to load some up. Anyone care to fill me in on how to get the old 5-10 up and running.

Thanks,

RJS

hondakid,

I'm not sure what the problem is with yours, but I know that the thing is awfully sensitive. You'll note in the instructions that zero should be reset whenever the scale is bumped. One of the things I do with mine is prevent the beam from suddenly hitting bottom by SLOWLY lifting the (thing that holds the powder -don't remember what it's called) from the beam after weighing the charge.

I certainly agree with those here who have found the Lee scale difficult to use. The major reason I use Lee tools is the price. With the relatively modest amount of shooting I do, I can't justify the large expenditure necessary to own the best tools.

That's a good point, the Lee tools do work and are cheap. If you're on a tight budget, and who isn't or wasn't at one time or another, then they will get the job done. I actually think the turret press is the best press you can buy. I'll probably get some flack for saying that, but I don't believe you need a press as strong as the RockChucker or Ultra Mag to load up some ammo. If you like big strong presses, fine, but they are definitely not needed.