Guys, have any of you all used this stuff? I bought some in areosol and have been using it for about a month. It seems so different than the conventional rem oil or gun oil. It has a very stange smell, number one, and two it doesn't leave that gooy surface when putting it on firearms. It seems to wipe up with no residue unlike my Hopps. They have a bunch of tests on the internet about saying it protects against corrosion better than any other out there and all but I usually take
what I read on the net with a grain of salt. What do you guys think about it. I am so used to trying to get all the oil residue off my guns after cleaning that it seems wierd without it. I kinda thought that was the protection was with oil was having that film on your gun to keep oxidation out. I am still not totally convinced about it yet.

This is what the military uses. It has always worked for me. You just have to shake it up well before using it.

CLP is the stuff that the military uses for the majority of its weapon maintiance.

It contains oil as well as teflon, which is why when you store the stuff in a clear bottle you can see the stuff seperate and must sahke it before use.

I have never used the areosol form, so I don;t no if it is modified in any way.

I couldn't think of anything better then the stuff for military weapons, or maybe even handguns for that matter, but I only use the stuff on my AR's and such.

For my hunting rifles I clean the exterior with something like remoil and on my waterfouling guns I use the Sheath rust preventative.

CLP is pretty good stuff. As the others mentioned, it contains teflon particles and must be shaken well before use. It is basically a light oil with some volatiles for thinning, and minute teflon flakes. The newer type of CLP that we've been getting for weapons cleaning for the last two years does not have the same amount of teflon in it that I can see. Still seems to work well.
I have been using CLP on my firearms since it became available and I like it. I have pretty sweaty hands and I have to be careful to wipe down whatever I handle, but my firearms seem to resist rust as well or better than oils. And it works well as a bore cleaner, though I prefer Hoppe's N0. 9 if I have it. The biggest problem that I've seen is that folks use too much. Takes longer to dry, collects dust and grit (as the over use of any lubricant will do) and makes the weapon messy to handle. Any way, I give it a "thumbs up" for a single use maintenance item.

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Surely we must all hang together, for separately we will all surely hang.

I used it in the Army until I retired it is great stuff. Put on a light coat and let it dry. Great for storing your rifles and pistols. Helps keep them from rusting. The stuff works in the Infantry and that is all that has to be said.I used Butch's bore cleaner for cleaning the bore it's the best I have found.

The BEST - Period!

I use it on steel an alumiunm molds when I put them away after each use. I keeps the steel from rusting and the aluminum from corroding. I also put a small amount on a patch and use it as the last run down a cleaned bore before it is put away for a year. I have a gallon of in and it has about 1 inch of the teflon on the bottom after it settles. Works well for me...BCB

We use it exclusively at R&M Firearms. Just be sure to shake it before you spray. Works great on fishing reels too!

I've used CLP to clean everything from 120 mm Smoothbore cannons to .22 LR. Its a good all purpose cleaner and lubricant but like anything "all purpose" it is a compromise. I prefer real chemical solvents like shooter's choice, and Sweets 7.62 for cleaning gun barrels. CLP is an adequate rust preventative. But I've found that Birchwood Casey's Sheath is superior in that regard.
Still...CLP is a good product and I carry it when I'm out hunting on trips etc when I don't expect I'll need to do some serious firearms cleaning/maintenance.

I use it a lot. For sixgun cleaning its perfect. Good rust preventative. It�s more difficult to get off one�s hands afterwards than anything else. For this I use Loctite FastOrange.

I used it also in gun barrels: for cleaning coupled with a bronce brush it removes a lot of fouling quick. For complete cleaning I use hoppes #9 with patches only.

I don�t use it as rust preservative in rifle barrels anymore. I fear the Teflon will break down at firing temperatures and produce fluoric acid ( Flusss�ure ) which will even etch glass.

Good shooting! H

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Thanks guys for the replys. Here is what a guy in another forum had to say about it. What do ya think? I think I will try it for a while on the guns I shoot alot. Here is another view from a guy I talk too. Just another perspective.

Here is what I know about "Break free CLP". I only know this because because I work at a law enforcement gun range. This is what I learned about the stuff and its pretty interesting. Break free claims to be a "cleaner, Lubricant, and preservative (hence, CLP) designation. As someone pointed out it does have a teflon base to it. Before using it, it is mandatory to shake the bottle/can up first. Other wise here is what happens. The actual "cleaner" agent in the bottle is the "liquid". The lubricant is the "teflon" stuff that actually settles at the bottom of the bottle/can when left untouched for a while. When the stuff is applied on a gun, it does have properties that allow you to clean your gun and/or oil it all with the same formula. The bad thing about it is that when you apply it to your gun and store it for a long time, the stuff actually seperates on the gun, just as it does in the bottle/can. If you're going to shoot the gun soon, (like the military), the stuff works like a champ.

Also if you don't have an actual cleaning solvent, and are in field or combat conditions, Breakfree works great. That is why and the only reason why the military uses it. Its a "two in one" formula. As far as preserving your gun mettal, it works ok, but eventually it will separate and evaporate on the metal, thus rust may form later. This is no lie, but the FBI actually spent 3 million dollars,,,yes 3 million of our tax dollars to do a study on what is the best oil for a gun. An oil that doesn't serarate, takes forever to evaporate (evaporate like WD40 or Breakfree over time) and works great to lubricate slides etc and does not gum up.
The answer they discovered: "Shooters Choice FP-10". It is an oil that works great according to them. Unlike breakfree, it does not clean and lubricate. Only lubricates and preserves better than any other type of gun oil combo. I've been told by a breakfree company representative in Santa Ana California that their product is good if you don't have cleaning solvents during "combat" operations. Hence, that is why the military uses the stuff like water on their guns. It's easier and cheaper for them to haul around one chemical that does it all for them. It doesn't matter to the military if the stuff will chemically separate or evaporate when the reapply the stuff on their weapons consistantly. A better solution to long term gun storage is to use the Shooter's choice "FP-10" on all you moving parts, then apply a light coating of "RIG" compound on the external metal surface. That stuff is like a light cosmoline grease, but very user friendly and not messy, unlike cosmoline. You can buy "rig" at most gun stores.

bigcountry __

I fully agree with all of the above. I've been using Break-Free since it first came out a few years back. Now I apply it to anything that needs light oil lubricant and/or corrosion protection.

To see how effective it is, clean a well-fouled bore with a typical cleaner (like Hoppe's #9) until the patches come out squeeky-clean. Then apply a liberal amount of CLP and let it sit for maybe a half-hour. Then push through another patch. Surprise!

Good shooting.

Robert

I have been using Break Free for numerous years now.

I do not use it as a cleaner but do store my guns with it in the bore, on the external surfaces and as a lubricant.

I have used it on semi-auto pistols that I have taken to combat pistol training courses and have fired over 1000 rounds in one day without a single problem.

Never had any evaporation problems liked mentioned above.

In my expierence it is a real winner!

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NRA Life Member

I think Big Country really knows his stuff on Break Free CLP. I used it about 10 years ago. I always shook it before use & stuff & it worked fine.

I then used it for long term lubrication of some rifles as I ended up not shooting for quite a while. I oiled the barrels with a Jag & CLP then for good measure I used the straw like attachment & sprayed the bore before putting it away.

After about 5 years (I know I am ashamed) it turned into this brown sticky stuff. Some got on the recoil pad & was hard to shift. No problems with rust though but it was stored in a very dry environment. ( I think I was just lucky).

Anyway I use any kind of gun oil that is available but clean more regularly even if I don't use them.

Only thing I didn't like about CLP is the smell & the price. In Australia it is about 2-3 times the price of other gun oils.

Regards,
JohnT

CLP is "all purpose", but there are other Break Free products, like bore cleaners and "long tome" conservants, so visit http://www.break-free.com/index.htm

Jiri

Everything I�ve read on this thread is according to my experiences. I use FP 10 on triggers ( try it! ), RIG outside of guns, BreakFree for cleaning Sixguns. For lubrication of auto slides I use RIG #7. It runs out very slow, a little bit will stay in the rails for at least half a year, and is colourless and odorless ( clothes! ).

I think to have several "chemicals" at hand doesn�t cost one penny more in the long run. Also if one product runs dry, there is one at least usable at hand.

And if i am hunting, I have a Otis all caliber kit + additional patches + BreakFree with me.

BTW the Otis kits are tops for: 10/22 ( small caliber "rod" ), and shotguns. These plastic "patch saver" is a GREAT idea.

Good shooting! H

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I live in humid country and find Break-Free a gazillion times better than old-style gun oils for surface rust prevention. Sheath may in fact be better, but BF-CLP has worked well for me for a long time.